You’ve probably seen the photos. That long, dramatic driveway lined with towering palms, the rugged silhouette of Camelback Mountain looming in the background, and those terra-cotta walls that look like they’ve been soaking up the Arizona sun for centuries. It’s a vibe. But honestly, most people think of Royal Palms Resort and Spa as just another high-end hotel in the Phoenix-Scottsdale rotation. They’re wrong.
It isn't a hotel. Not really. It’s a 1929 mansion that accidentally became a resort, and that distinction matters the second you step onto the cobblestones.
The Winter Haven of a Steamship Tycoon
The story starts with a guy named Delos Cooke. He was a big deal—a financier and executive for the Cunard Steamship Company. His wife, Florence, wasn't doing great with the brutal New York winters, so they did what wealthy people did in the twenties: they headed west. They bought 65 acres of citrus groves and built a 3,500-square-foot Spanish Revival villa they called El Vernadero, or "winter haven."
Cooke didn’t do things halfway. He imported 900 palm trees, some allegedly from Egypt, to create that iconic entrance. He filled the house with treasures from their world travels—hand-carved chests, intricate tiles, and heavy mahogany doors.
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He died in 1931, only a few years after it was finished.
After that, the estate passed through a few hands. At one point, a guy named Wesley "Buck" Travis, who ran Pacific Greyhound Bus Lines, lived there and added a second story and a tiny chapel. It didn’t actually become an "inn" until 1948, when a former bandleader named Al Stovall and some investors realized that post-war tourists were itching for desert glam.
What You’ll Actually Find Today
If you’re looking for a sprawling, 500-room mega-resort with a water park, you’re in the wrong place. The Royal Palms Resort and Spa is intimate. We’re talking 119 rooms, casitas, and villas. It feels like you’re staying at a rich uncle’s estate rather than a corporate Hyatt (though Hyatt’s Unbound Collection does manage it now).
The layout is a bit of a maze, but in a good way. You’ll be walking to your room and stumble upon a hidden courtyard with a 250-year-old fountain or a patch of "laja negra" stone pavers from Mexico that date back to the 1600s.
The Room Situation
Don't expect cookie-cutter interiors. Because it grew from a private home, the rooms have quirks.
- Estate Rooms: These are in the main building area. They’re cozy, often featuring hand-stenciled walls.
- Casitas: This is where you want to be. They’re scattered around the gardens. Many have beehive fireplaces and private patios.
- The Alvadora Spa Villas: These are the heavy hitters. You get stone floors, outdoor showers, and a massive amount of privacy.
One thing people often miss is the "Lady of Spain" tile mural. It’s original. So are the 24 tile mosaics in the Mansion Courtyard, each representing a different Spanish province. It’s those little textures that stop it from feeling like a generic luxury box.
Why the Alvadora Spa Isn't Your Average Hotel Gym
Most hotel spas are an afterthought in the basement. Alvadora Spa at the Royal Palms is the opposite. It was added in 2003, but they matched the Mediterranean vibe so well you’d swear it was built in the 20s.
The signature move here is the Citrus Ritual. It’s an 80-minute situation involving a full-body exfoliation and a soak in a private indoor-outdoor patio. They use Vichy showers—basically a row of showerheads that rain down on you while you're lying on a heated stone table. It sounds weirdly specific because it is.
If you're going with a partner, look for the Acqua Dolce Suite. It has side-by-side soaking tubs and an outdoor fireplace. Honestly, it’s one of the most romantic spots in the city, period. Just be prepared for the price tag; a 100-minute massage can easily clear $450 with tip. It’s a "special occasion" kind of place, not a "quick Tuesday rub-down" spot.
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Dining at T. Cook’s: More Than Just a Hotel Restaurant
For a long time, T. Cook’s was the place to eat in Phoenix. It’s still a heavy hitter. The vibe is very "old world"—dark wood, high ceilings, and a massive fireplace that they actually use.
They lean hard into Mediterranean flavors. You’ll find things like:
- The Hot Stone: Thinly sliced K4 Ranch beef you sear yourself on a scorching rock.
- Tempura Fried Octopus: Served with sambal aioli and pickled jalapeño.
- The Paella: It’s a staple for a reason.
If you aren't in the mood for a full three-course sit-down, go to MixUp Bar. It’s adjacent to the restaurant and feels a bit more "Arizona cool." They do a "Purple Moon" martini with Empress gin that is surprisingly good, even if it looks like a science experiment.
The "Secret" History and Celebrity Ghosting
Back in the 50s and 60s, this was the hideout. Groucho Marx stayed here. So did Helena Rubinstein and the Gish sisters. It wasn't about being seen; it was about disappearing.
There’s a rumor that the property is haunted, but honestly, it’s mostly just the sound of the wind in the palms. The real "ghosts" are the architectural remnants. There’s a hidden "cigar lounge" vibe and little nooks where you can imagine old Hollywood stars sipping gin and tonics away from the paparazzi.
Is it Worth the Hype?
Look, nothing is perfect. The property is old. Sometimes the plumbing in the historic sections can be a little temperamental. The parking can be a bit of a squeeze. And if you’re here during a summer heatwave, the lush gardens feel more like a tropical humidity trap than a desert oasis.
But there’s a soul here that you don't get at the newer, shinier resorts in North Scottsdale.
How to Do It Right
If you're planning a trip to Royal Palms Resort and Spa, don't just book the cheapest room and spend all day at the pool.
- Take the History Tour: They usually offer these for guests. A resort ambassador will walk you through the old Cooke mansion and point out the "En Dieu Est Ma Fiance" crest above the doors.
- Order the Focaccia: It sounds basic, but the signature pesto at T. Cook's is legitimately famous among locals.
- Check the Calendar: They often do "Cocina Latina" sessions where the chef teaches you how to make ceviche.
- Morning on the Cholla Trail: You’re right at the base of Camelback. Get up at 6:00 AM, hike the trail, and then come back for a massage. That’s the pro move.
The resort celebrated its 75th anniversary recently, and it’s clear they aren't trying to modernize the character out of the place. It remains a weird, beautiful hybrid of a 1920s estate and a modern luxury retreat.
Next Steps for Your Visit:
- Booking Tip: If you want the quietest experience, request a casita in the "Valencia" or "Montavista" sections; they’re tucked further away from the main pool and restaurant noise.
- Dining Reservation: T. Cook’s fills up fast on weekends, especially during "snowbird" season (January through April). Book your table at least two weeks out if you want a spot near the fireplace.
- Spa Prep: Arrive at Alvadora at least 45 minutes early. The relaxation room and whirlpool are half the experience, and rushing through them is a waste of your money.