So, you’re looking at that one jacket. You know the one. It has those crisp white leather strips on the shoulders and a silhouette that looks like it was stolen from a 1950s high school track star, but somehow feels like it belongs in a smoke-filled Parisian club. I’m talking about the Saint Laurent letterman jacket, more commonly (and technically) known as the Teddy.
Honestly? It shouldn't still be this popular.
In a world where fashion trends have the lifespan of a TikTok sound, the Teddy is a weird anomaly. It’s been over a decade since Hedi Slimane sent it down the runway in 2013, and yet, here we are in 2026, and people are still obsessing over it. Why? Is it actually worth the four-figure price tag, or are we all just victims of really good marketing? Let’s get into the weeds of what makes this thing tick.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Saint Laurent Letterman Jacket
First off, let’s clear up the name. While everyone searches for a "letterman jacket," Saint Laurent purists will correct you instantly: it's a Teddy. Specifically, it’s a "Teddy Jacket" or "Teddy College Jacket." It takes the DNA of the American varsity—which dates all the way back to the 1865 Harvard baseball team—and strips away the bulky patches and the "look at me" athletic bravado.
People often think it's just a regular bomber. It isn't. The cut is notoriously slim. If you try to wear a chunky hoodie under a classic 2013-era Teddy, you’re going to look like a stuffed sausage. It was designed for the "Indie Sleaze" aesthetic—skinny jeans, Chelsea boots, and a frame that hasn't seen a carb since the late 2000s.
The Hedi Slimane Factor
You can't talk about this jacket without mentioning Hedi Slimane. When he took over the brand (and controversially dropped the "Yves" from the name), he wanted to inject a shot of rock-and-roll adrenaline into the house. The Teddy was his crown jewel. It bridged the gap between vintage Americana and luxury.
Interestingly, since Slimane left for Celine and Anthony Vaccarello took over, the jacket hasn't really changed. Usually, a new Creative Director wants to burn everything their predecessor did. Not here. The Teddy is such a consistent money-maker for Saint Laurent that they just keep making it, season after season.
The Build: Is It Just Expensive Wool?
Let's talk specs. Because if you're dropping $3,400 (the current going rate for a new one in 2026), you probably want to know what you’re paying for.
Most Teddies are made from a blend of 90% wool and 10% polyamide. It’s a dense, heavy melton wool that feels substantial. But here's the kicker: not all Teddies are the same.
- The Winter Weight: These are the thick ones. They have a bit of a "hairy" texture to the wool and are surprisingly warm.
- The Gabardine Version: Some seasons use a thinner, smoother wool gabardine. These are way better for California or Mediterranean climates. If you buy a gabardine one thinking it’s a winter coat, you’re gonna be shivering.
The shoulder "piping" is actually lambskin leather. It’s incredibly soft, but it’s also the first thing to get ruined if you aren’t careful. If you’re buying one second-hand, check those leather strips first. If they’re cracked or yellowed, run away.
The 2026 Reality: Who Is Still Wearing This?
You might think the varsity trend died out, but walk through SoHo or the 1st Arrondissement right now and you'll see them everywhere. In 2025, we saw a massive "2016 Revival" (thanks, Rihanna), which brought the whole skinny-silhouette look back into the mainstream.
Celebrities like Rosé from Blackpink, Zoë Kravitz, and Mark Ronson are still spotted in various iterations. Ronson even rocked a Spring 2026 Saint Laurent windbreaker version recently, proving the brand is still iterating on the "sporty-luxe" vibe.
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Resale Values and the "Fake" Problem
Because it’s a "permanent collection" item, the resale value stays annoyingly high. You’re lucky to find a clean, authentic one for under $1,200 on Grailed or Vestiaire Collective.
And yeah, we have to talk about the fakes. They are everywhere.
Some of the "super-fakes" coming out of overseas factories are scary good. A few quick tips to save your wallet:
- The Snap Buttons: Real ones have "SAINT LAURENT PARIS" engraved very cleanly. Fakes often have font that is too thick or "mushy."
- The Inner Tag: It should be a crisp, rectangular black silk tag with white text. If there’s a separate tiny tag with the size (like "48" or "M") attached to the main label, it’s almost certainly a fake. Authentic ones usually have the size on a small tag inside the pocket or hidden elsewhere.
- The Silhouette: Real Teddies have high armholes. If the jacket looks baggy or "boxy" like a cheap souvenir jacket, it’s not the one.
How to Actually Style It (Without Looking Like a 2014 Tumblr Post)
Look, we aren't in 2014 anymore. The "skinny jeans and wide-brim hat" look is a bit dated. To make the Saint Laurent letterman jacket work in 2026, you have to play with proportions.
Try pairing it with straight-leg trousers instead of spray-on skinnies. A simple white tee or a fine-gauge turtleneck underneath keeps it elevated. It’s a piece that does the heavy lifting for you. You don't need a lot of accessories. Maybe a pair of Wyatt boots if you want to go full Saint Laurent, but even a pair of clean, low-profile white sneakers works these days.
Is It Worth It?
Honestly? It depends on your wardrobe philosophy.
If you want a "one and done" jacket that you can wear to a wedding rehearsal, a dive bar, and a flight to Tokyo, then yes. It’s a design classic at this point. It’s the Porsche 911 of jackets—it doesn’t really matter what year it’s from; it still looks right.
But if you’re looking for a warm winter coat, look elsewhere. This is a fashion piece. It’s about the "look," not the utility.
Your Next Steps for Grabbing a Teddy
If you're ready to pull the trigger, don't just go to the website and hit buy. Do a bit of recon first.
- Go to a physical boutique: You need to try this on. The sizing is Italian (46, 48, 50, etc.), and it runs small. If you’re usually a Medium, you might be a 50 or even a 52 depending on how broad your shoulders are.
- Check the "Gabardine" vs "Wool" tag: Look at the fabric composition inside. If you want that classic varsity feel, ensure it's the heavier melton wool.
- Scope the secondary market: Sites like The RealReal or 1stDibs often have "New With Tags" versions from previous seasons for $500–$800 less than retail. Just make sure they have a solid authentication guarantee.
- Invest in a good hanger: Seriously. That heavy wool and the lambskin inserts will lose their shape on a cheap wire hanger. Get a wide, contoured wooden one to keep those shoulders sharp.
The Saint Laurent Teddy isn't just a jacket; it’s a bit of a status symbol that has somehow managed to outrun its own "trendiness." It's officially a staple. Just don't forget to take it to a specialist dry cleaner—regular shops will ruin that leather trim faster than you can say "YSL."