Don't pack your swimsuit just yet. Honestly, if you’re looking at photos of La Concha beach bathed in golden sunlight and thinking you’ll be lounging on a towel in March, you’re setting yourself up for a damp surprise. San Sebastian is beautiful. It’s also famously moody.
The San Sebastian weather March brings to the table is a chaotic mix of early spring blossoms and the stubborn remnants of Atlantic winters. You might wake up to a sky so blue it looks painted, only to find yourself sprinting for cover under a stone archway twenty minutes later because a "sirimiri"—that iconic, fine Basque drizzle—has decided to settle in for the afternoon. It's fickle. One moment you're stripping off your wool coat because the sun hit the Plaza de la Constitución just right, and the next, you’re shivering as the wind whips off the Bay of Biscay.
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The Cold Hard Reality of the Numbers
Let's talk Celsius. According to historical data from AEMET (the Spanish State Meteorological Agency), the average high in March sits right around 14°C or 15°C (that’s about 58°F). The lows? Usually around 7°C (45°F). But numbers are liars. 14 degrees in the sun feels like heaven; 14 degrees when the humidity is at 80% and a breeze is kicking up off the water feels like a freezer.
Rain is the real protagonist here. March is statistically one of the wetter months in the Basque Country. You should expect about 12 to 14 days of rain throughout the month. That doesn't mean it's a washout every single day, but it does mean you can't plan your itinerary based on the forecast you saw on your phone three days ago. It changes. Fast.
The ocean temperature is at its annual low, hovering around 12°C. You'll see surfers in thick 4/3mm wetsuits out at Zurriola Beach, but unless you’ve got neoprene running through your veins, you aren’t going for a casual dip. The sea is restless this time of year. Massive swells often hit the Paseo Nuevo, sending plumes of whitewater fifty feet into the air. It’s a spectacle, sure, but it’s a cold one.
Is it actually "Spring" yet?
Kinda. In the inland hills of Gipuzkoa, you’ll see the apple trees starting to wake up, which is a big deal because it signals the height of the sidrería (cider house) season. But in the city itself, March is more of a transition. The tamarisk trees along the promenade are still bare, waiting for April's warmth.
Why Everyone Obsesses Over the Wind
The wind in San Sebastian isn't just air moving; it’s an event. Locally, the "Galerna" is more of a summer phenomenon, but March has its own brand of gusty turbulence. When the wind blows from the south, it’s actually quite warm—a Foehn effect caused by air dropping down from the Pyrenees. These days are "false spring" days. Everyone hits the terraces, drinks a zurito (small beer), and forgets that winter ever happened.
Then the wind shifts north.
Suddenly, the air is biting. You'll notice the locals—the Donostiarras—don’t get fooled. They carry "antiviento" umbrellas. If you buy a cheap five-euro umbrella from a souvenir shop near the cathedral, the San Sebastian weather in March will snap it in four seconds. Trust me. I've seen the trash cans overflowing with mangled metal ribs after a breezy Tuesday.
Navigating the Cider House Peak
One thing the weather can't ruin is the Txotx season. Since March is often gray and drizzly, it is the absolute prime time to head to the nearby town of Astigarraga. Why? Because you’re inside a massive, heated stone cellar eating grilled chorizo, salt cod omelets, and massive ribeye steaks (txuleta).
The cider houses are the perfect antidote to a soggy March afternoon. You stand around large wooden barrels, someone yells "Txotx!", and you catch a stream of naturally fermented cider in your glass. It’s loud. It’s social. And importantly, it’s dry. If the weather is looking particularly grim for your trip, just book a table at a sagardotegia. It’s the most authentic Basque experience you can have, and it requires zero sunshine to enjoy.
The Pintxo Run: A Rain Strategy
You’ve gotta be strategic about your food in March. The Parte Vieja (Old Town) is a maze of narrow streets. On a rainy day, these streets become wind tunnels. If you're doing a pintxo crawl, don't try to cross the city. Stick to a specific cluster.
- Goiz-Argi: Famous for their shrimp skewers.
- Ganbara: Go here for the wild mushrooms if it’s been a particularly rainy week; they’ll be fresh and incredible.
- Borda Berri: Get the risotto or the veal cheek. It’s warm, heavy, "stick-to-your-ribs" food that makes a 13-degree day feel like a cozy retreat.
Most bars have hooks under the counters for your coats and umbrellas. Use them. Nothing marks you as a tourist faster than dripping all over the person next to you while trying to balance a plate of jamón.
What to Actually Pack (The Non-Boring Version)
Forget the heavy parka, but don't bring a light denim jacket either. You need layers that handle moisture. A high-quality raincoat with a hood is non-negotiable because, as mentioned, umbrellas are often useless against the wind. Waterproof shoes are a massive "must." Those cobblestones in the Old Town get slick, and there is nothing worse than cold, wet socks while you're trying to enjoy a glass of Rioja.
Think:
- A medium-weight waterproof shell.
- A light down vest (the "unoffical" uniform of San Sebastian).
- Leather boots or treated sneakers.
- Scarves. People here love scarves. It’s a fashion statement and a wind-blocker rolled into one.
Misconceptions About March Crowds
A lot of travel blogs say March is "empty." It’s not. It’s quieter than July, definitely, but San Sebastian is a living city, not a resort. The weekends are still packed with people from Bilbao, Pamplona, and Biarritz. However, you can usually get into top-tier restaurants like Akelarre or Arzak without booking six months in advance. That’s the real win.
The prices are also significantly lower. Hotels that charge 400 euros in August might be half that in March. You're trading beach weather for luxury at a discount and the ability to actually see the art at the Chillida Leku museum without a crowd of influencers blocking every sculpture.
Hidden Perks of the Gray Sky
There’s a specific light in San Sebastian when it’s overcast—a sort of silvery, muted glow. Photographers love it. The "Comb of the Wind" (Peine del Viento) sculptures at the end of Ondarreta Beach look far more dramatic against a crashing, stormy sea and a charcoal sky than they do on a flat, sunny day. It feels raw. It feels Basque.
If you get a clear day, the hike from San Sebastian to Pasaia along the St. James Way (Camino de Santiago) is spectacular in March. The gorse is yellow, the air is crisp, and you won't overheat on the climbs. Just check the mud levels before you go.
Practical Steps for Your March Visit
If you are heading to Donostia this March, don't just wing it. The weather demands a bit of respect and a solid Plan B.
- Download the 'Euskalmet' App: This is the local Basque weather service. It is significantly more accurate for this specific microclimate than the generic weather app that came with your phone. It tracks the rain clouds moving across the coast in real-time.
- Book Cider Houses Early: Even though it’s "off-season" for tourists, it is peak season for locals. Saturday lunch at a popular cider house like Zelaia or Petritegi will be booked out weeks in advance.
- Stay in the Centro or Parte Vieja: In March, you want to be within walking distance of the action so you can duck back to your hotel to change if you get caught in a downpour. Staying out in the farther residential districts like Antiguo is great, but the commute is less fun in the rain.
- Visit the Aquarium or San Telmo Museum: Keep these in your back pocket for the days when the sky truly opens up. The San Telmo, built into the side of Mount Urgull, is an architectural marvel and gives you the context of Basque history that makes the city make sense.
- Embrace the 'Late' Schedule: The sun sets around 7:00 PM in early March and pushes toward 8:30 PM by the end of the month due to the clocks changing. Use those extra daylight hours for the coastal walks, then retreat to the bars.
San Sebastian in March isn't for the traveler who needs a tan. It’s for the person who wants to eat the best food in the world, watch the power of the Atlantic, and experience the city without the sweltering humidity of the summer. Just bring a jacket. Seriously.