You’re standing on the platform at Union Station. It’s early. Probably earlier than you’d like to be awake on a Tuesday. But there’s something about the train from Toronto to New York that feels different than the frantic energy of Pearson Airport. You aren't taking off your shoes for security. You aren't paying $40 for a checked bag. You’re just... sitting down.
Honestly, most people think this trip is a nightmare because of the length. They see "12 hours" on the Amtrak or VIA Rail website and immediately close the tab. They’re wrong. Well, they’re partially wrong. It is a long day, but if you go into it expecting a teleportation device, you’ve already lost. This is slow travel. It's a bridge between two of the most iconic cities in North America, and the "Maple Leaf" service is the only way to see the transition from the Ontario Golden Horseshoe to the Hudson Valley in a single, unbroken line.
Why the Maple Leaf Service Is a Weird Hybrid
The train from Toronto to New York is technically a joint operation. It's a bit of a "handshake" deal. From Toronto to the border at Niagara Falls, you’re on VIA Rail tracks, often with VIA crews. Once you cross that bridge over the Niagara River—which, by the way, is the best view of the entire trip—the train transforms into an Amtrak service.
You don't even have to change seats.
The crew changes. The snack bar currency changes from CAD to USD. The vibe shifts slightly. It’s one of the few places where international diplomacy happens over a pre-packaged ham sandwich. If you’re looking for luxury, let’s be real: this isn't the Orient Express. It’s a workhorse. The Amfleet cars are dated, but they have more legroom than a first-class flight on a regional jet. I'm talking "stretch your legs out fully and still not touch the seat in front of you" legroom.
🔗 Read more: Badwater Basin Death Valley National Park: Why You’re Doing It All Wrong
The Border Crossing: The Part Everyone Dreads
Let's talk about the elephant in the room. Niagara Falls, New York.
This is where the clock stops.
When you take the train from Toronto to New York, you have to clear U.S. Customs and Border Protection. On a good day, it’s a breeze. On a bad day? You’re sitting there for two hours while officers check every suitcase in the luggage car. You have to get off the train with all your belongings. You walk into the station, stand in line, talk to an officer, and then get back on.
Pro tip: don't bring fruit. Seriously. I once saw a guy get held up for twenty minutes over a single Canadian apple. The USDA does not play around with citrus or stone fruits. Just eat it before you hit St. Catharines. It’ll save everyone on the train a headache.
The Scenery Nobody Mentions
Everyone raves about the Hudson River Valley. And yeah, it's gorgeous. Once you pass Albany and start heading south toward Penn Station, the train hugs the eastern bank of the river. If you’re sitting on the right side of the train (the "west" side), you get front-row seats to the Catskill Mountains and lighthouses.
But the Finger Lakes region in Upstate New York is underrated.
Between Buffalo and Syracuse, you’re rolling through backyards, old industrial towns, and deep woods. It’s a gritty, beautiful look at the "Rust Belt" that has its own sort of charm. You see the skeletons of old factories being reclaimed by vines. You see small-town high school football fields. It’s the stuff Paul Simon wrote songs about.
Food, WiFi, and Survival Logistics
Don't rely on the WiFi. Just don't.
Amtrak’s "Connect" service is basically a suggestion. It works fine for emails in some spots, but once you hit the rural stretches of New York State, it’s a ghost. If you have a big presentation or you’re planning to stream a 4K movie, you’re going to be frustrated. Download your Netflix shows at Union Station. Use the offline mode on Spotify.
As for food, the Cafe Car is... fine. It’s fine! It’s mostly microwavable stuff. Hot dogs, burgers, those little deep-dish pizzas that are surprisingly okay when you’re hungry at 3:00 PM. But if you're smart, you'll pack a cooler bag. Get a sandwich from the basement of Union Station before you board. Bring a liter of water. The water on the train is technically potable, but it tastes like a swimming pool.
The Cost Factor: Is it Actually Cheaper?
Sometimes. Not always.
If you book the train from Toronto to New York three months in advance, you can grab a ticket for around $70 to $90 USD. That’s a steal. If you try to book it for tomorrow? You might be looking at $180. At that point, Porter Airlines out of Billy Bishop starts looking pretty tempting.
But you have to factor in the "hidden" costs of flying:
- The UP Express ticket to Pearson ($12.35).
- The Uber from JFK or Newark into Manhattan ($70-$100).
- The mental tax of being squeezed into a middle seat.
The train drops you off at Moynihan Train Hall in New York. It’s beautiful. It’s right across from Madison Square Garden. You walk out the doors, and you are in it. No hour-long shuttle from the airport. No Port Authority bus drama. You just walk into the Manhattan air and you've arrived.
A Note on the "Business Class" Myth
Is Business Class worth it on the Maple Leaf?
Kinda.
You get a slightly better seat and a 2-1 seating configuration instead of 2-2. You get a few "free" non-alcoholic drinks. But honestly? The Coach seats are so huge that the upgrade feels less necessary than it does on a plane. If you have the extra $40, go for it for the peace and quiet. Usually, the Business Class car is a bit more hushed. Less crying babies, more people reading New Yorkers.
The Timeline: A Realistic Breakdown
You leave Toronto around 8:20 AM. You hit the border around noon. You’re rolling into New York City by 10:00 PM or 11:00 PM.
It's a long day.
I’ve seen people try to do this for a weekend trip. Leave Friday, return Sunday. Don’t do that. You’ll spend 25% of your weekend on a train. This route is for people who have at least four or five days in the city. It’s for people who want to transition slowly, who want to watch the geography change, or who just plain hate flying.
What Happens if the Train is Late?
Freight trains are the kings of the tracks in North America. Amtrak and VIA often have to "pull over" to let a mile-long cargo train pass. It sucks, but it’s the reality of our current rail infrastructure.
If your train from Toronto to New York is running behind, don't panic. The arrival times are usually "cushioned" to account for these delays. I’ve been on trips where we were an hour late into Albany but arrived at Penn Station exactly on time because the Hudson line is faster and more predictable.
Preparation Checklist for the Long Haul
- Power: Most seats have outlets, but sometimes they’re loose. Bring a portable power bank just in case.
- Layers: The AC on Amtrak is legendary. It will be 95 degrees in NYC and 60 degrees inside that train car. Bring a hoodie.
- Documents: Have your passport or Nexus card ready. Don't bury it at the bottom of your suitcase. You’ll need it multiple times—once for the VIA conductor, once for the border, and potentially once for the Amtrak conductor.
- Entertainment: A physical book is your best friend. No batteries required.
The Real Value of Rail Travel
There is a specific kind of melancholy and magic in watching the sun set over the Hudson River as the skyline of Manhattan starts to peek through the trees. You see the George Washington Bridge first. Then the lights of the Upper West Side.
You’ve earned the city.
Flying feels like cheating. You close your eyes in one place and open them in another. Taking the train from Toronto to New York makes you respect the distance. You realize just how much land sits between the CN Tower and the Empire State Building. It’s a lot of forest, a lot of small towns, and a lot of history.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
- Book 8-12 weeks out: This is the "sweet spot" for the lowest fares on the Amtrak and VIA websites.
- Download the Amtrak App: It gives you real-time tracking. If the train is delayed leaving Toronto, you’ll know before you leave your house.
- Pick the Right Side: For the trip to New York, sit on the Right side of the train for the best river views south of Albany. For the trip to Toronto, sit on the Left.
- Check the Baggage Policy: You can bring two large carry-on bags and two personal items for free. That’s massive compared to airlines. Just make sure you can actually lift them into the overhead rack yourself.
- Pack "Border-Friendly" Snacks: Stick to sealed, processed snacks (chips, crackers, granola bars) to avoid any issues with agricultural inspectors at the Niagara crossing.
If you have the time, the train isn't just a way to get there. It's a way to actually see the continent you're crossing. Pack a sandwich, charge your phone, and settle in for a very long, very interesting day.