When the USS Missouri pulled into Long Beach in 1989, nobody expected a fashion earthquake. The sailors were ready for a music video. They weren't ready for a 43-year-old icon to step out in a Cher If I Can Turn Back Time costume that consisted mostly of air and attitude. It was a one-piece bathing suit made of black fishnet and sheer fabric, topped with a leather jacket and the kind of "big hair" that defined the late eighties.
People lost their minds.
MTV actually banned the video during daytime hours. Imagine that. In a world of hair metal and provocative pop, Cher’s choice of attire was deemed too scandalous for the afternoon sun. Why? Because it wasn't just a costume; it was a middle finger to aging and a masterclass in Bob Mackie’s legendary design philosophy. It remains one of the most recognizable silhouettes in pop culture history, and honestly, we’re still talking about it because it represents a specific kind of fearless power.
The Architecture of a Scandal: What Most People Get Wrong
Most folks think the outfit was just a simple leotard. It wasn't. Designed by the incomparable Bob Mackie, the piece was an intricate construction of stretch mesh and strategically placed "modesty" patches. It’s actually a V-neck, high-cut bodysuit that relied on heavy-duty stage-grade materials to stay in place while Cher straddled a literal 16-inch gun on a battleship.
There’s a common misconception that Cher wore it to be "trashy." That’s a fundamental misunderstanding of her career.
Cher and Mackie were an inseparable duo. They approached clothing as theater. This specific Cher If I Can Turn Back Time costume was a calculated move to re-establish her as a rock goddess after a successful stint as a "serious" Oscar-winning actress. It was about reclaiming her space in the MTV era. She knew exactly what she was doing. The leather jacket was the anchor—a classic biker silhouette that balanced the extreme exposure of the sheer mesh.
Interestingly, the sailors on the ship weren't just "extras" in the traditional sense. They were actual crew members of the USS Missouri. The Navy later regretted the decision to allow the filming once they saw the final edit. They felt the "outfit" didn't represent the dignity of the vessel. But for Cher, the ship was just a giant prop for a woman who refused to be told she was too old for fishnets.
The Material Reality of the Look
If you look closely at the high-definition remasters of the video today, you can see the complexity. It isn't just black fabric. It’s a mix of:
- Heavy-gauge fishnet hosiery.
- A ribbed, high-cut "sling" style bodysuit.
- Crystal embellishments (classic Mackie) that catch the ship’s floodlights.
- A custom-fitted leather motorcycle jacket with silver hardware.
The wig is another story entirely. It wasn't just a perm. It was a massive, cascading pile of curls that added about six inches to her height. It was the "more is more" era.
Why the Costume Still Matters in the 2020s
You see this look every Halloween. You see it on RuPaul's Drag Race. You see it whenever a celebrity wants to make a "comeback" statement.
The Cher If I Can Turn Back Time costume broke the mold for what a woman in her 40s was "allowed" to wear. Before this, the industry largely expected female stars to pivot to gowns and "classy" ballads as they aged. Cher did the opposite. She went bolder. She went tighter. She went louder.
When Kim Kardashian or Dua Lipa wear "naked dresses" on the red carpet today, they are walking through a door that Cher kicked open with a black leather boot in 1989. It’s the blueprint for the "shock and awe" red carpet moment.
Recreating the Look Without Ending Up on a Watchlist
If you're trying to pull this off for a gala or a high-end costume event, you can't just buy a cheap leotard from a big-box store. It’ll look like a mess.
- The Foundation: You need a high-leg, thong-cut bodysuit. If you aren't comfortable with the level of exposure Cher had, find one with "nude" mesh panels. It gives the illusion of skin without the structural risk of a wardrobe malfunction.
- The Hardware: The jacket has to be cropped. A full-length biker jacket hides the silhouette and ruins the "Turn Back Time" vibe. Look for something that hits just above the hip.
- The Hair: Don't settle for a cheap "rock star" wig. You need a lace-front with volume. Cher’s hair in that video was a character in itself—wild, unruly, and deep black.
- The Boots: Black leather, pointed toe, usually with a decent heel. They need to look like they could actually walk on a battleship deck without slipping.
The Cultural Impact and the Navy's Regret
Let’s talk about the USS Missouri for a second. The Navy actually banned the video from being shown on Navy-run TV stations for a while. They were genuinely embarrassed. There was a huge internal debate about whether the presence of a woman in a sheer bodysuit "desecrated" a historic warship that saw action in World War II.
Cher’s response? She basically just kept being Cher.
She eventually performed the song in similar outfits during her "Farewell" and "Classic Cher" tours, proving that the Cher If I Can Turn Back Time costume wasn't a one-off stunt. It was a uniform. By the time she was performing it in her 70s, the shock had worn off and been replaced by pure, unadulterated respect. The woman has a literal "Mackie Room" in her house. That should tell you everything you need to know about how seriously she takes these pieces.
Navigating the Legacy
There are a few things to keep in mind if you’re studying this era of pop culture.
First, the video was directed by Marty Callner. He’s the guy who did a lot of the big Aerosmith videos. He knew how to film rock stars. The lighting was essential—using high-contrast shadows to make the sheer fabric look even more dramatic than it might have appeared in person.
Second, the "controversy" was the best marketing the song ever had. It hit Number 3 on the Billboard Hot 100. It became her most successful hit in years. The costume was the engine that drove that success.
👉 See also: Eleanor from the Chipmunks: Why the Strongest Chipette Still Matters
It’s easy to look back now and think it's tame compared to what we see at the VMAs. But in 1989, it was a revolution. It was the first time a major female pop star of that stature had used that level of transparency in a mainstream video.
Actionable Insights for Collectors and Creators
If you are looking to source or create a version of this iconic look, focus on the sheer weight of the fabric. Bob Mackie’s originals are made with industrial-strength elastics that hold their shape under intense stage lights and sweat.
- Authenticity Check: Original Mackie pieces often have internal "stays" or boning that you won't find in fast-fashion replicas.
- Styling Tip: To modernize the look, swap the fishnet for a high-gloss spandex, but keep the leather jacket. The contrast between the "hard" leather and "soft" lingerie is the key to the aesthetic.
- Photography Tip: If you're shooting a tribute, use low-angle shots. The "Turn Back Time" video used low angles to make Cher look like a giant among the sailors, emphasizing her power over the environment.
The reality is that nobody does it like Cher. But by understanding the construction and the "why" behind the Cher If I Can Turn Back Time costume, you can appreciate it as more than just a piece of clothing. It was a cultural shift captured in mesh and leather.
To truly honor the legacy of this look, don't just copy the clothes—copy the confidence. The reason the outfit worked wasn't because it was revealing; it worked because the woman wearing it looked like she owned the entire United States Navy. That's the energy you have to bring. Focus on the structural integrity of the bodysuit first, as that provides the silhouette, then layer the "attitude" of the jacket and boots over it. Avoid the temptation to over-accessorize. The original look was surprisingly stripped down, letting the sheer audacity of the mesh do all the heavy lifting.