You’re standing in the middle of Target. The lighting is aggressive. You just came in for paper towels and maybe some lightbulbs, but somehow you’ve drifted into the men’s section. There’s a massive wall of folded cotton. It’s the Goodfellow black t shirt. You’ve probably owned five of them. Maybe you're wearing one right now while reading this. It’s the shirt that basically redefined what a "budget" essential looks like for guys who don't want to spend $45 at a boutique shop in SoHo but also don't want to look like they’re wearing a baggy undershirt from a plastic three-pack.
Honestly, it’s just a shirt. But also, it’s the shirt.
Ever since Target launched the Goodfellow & Co brand back in 2017 to replace Merona and Mossimo, it’s become a cult favorite. It’s weird how much people talk about it on Reddit’s r/malefashionadvice. They treat it like a holy grail of low-cost style. But is it actually good, or are we just collectively gaslighting ourselves because it's convenient and costs less than a burrito bowl? Let's get into the weeds of the fabric, the weird shrinkage issues, and why the "Lyocell" version changed the game for guys with broader shoulders.
What actually makes a Goodfellow black t shirt different?
Most cheap shirts feel like cardboard or tissue paper. There's no middle ground. You either get a Gildan heavyweight that feels like a burlap sack or a fast-fashion rag that turns transparent after three washes. Goodfellow hit this sweet spot. The standard "Everyday" crewneck is a 60/40 cotton-poly blend, which is why it doesn't wrinkle the second you look at it.
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But here is the real kicker: the cut.
Traditional American fits are boxy. They assume everyone has the torso shape of a refrigerator. Goodfellow leaned into a "Standard Fit" that's actually closer to what most brands call "Athletic Fit." It’s tapered. It hugs the arms slightly. It makes you look like you’ve been to the gym at least once in the last month, even if the only heavy lifting you’ve done is carrying the groceries.
If you want the "Premium" version, you’re looking at the cotton-lyocell blend. Lyocell is basically a form of rayon made from wood pulp. It sounds hippy-dippy, but it makes the fabric feel silky and cool to the touch. It drapes. It doesn't just sit on your body; it moves with you. This is the version you want for a date night where you're trying to look "refined casual" without trying too hard.
The shrinkage reality check
Let’s be real for a second. These shirts shrink. If you toss a 100% cotton Goodfellow black t shirt into a high-heat dryer, you are going to end up with a crop top. It’s a tragedy that has happened to the best of us.
I’ve found that the black dye specifically holds up better than the navy or the maroon, but the fibers are sensitive to heat. To keep it looking like a shirt and not a doll's outfit, you’ve gotta wash it cold. Hang dry if you’re a perfectionist. If you’re lazy like me, just tumble dry on the lowest possible heat setting. The black stays dark for about 15-20 washes before you start seeing that slight greyish "vintage" fade around the collar. For a shirt that's usually under ten bucks, that's actually a pretty solid lifespan.
The "Nyc" vs. "Standard" Fit Confusion
Target sometimes messes with the labeling, and it drives people crazy. Sometimes you’ll see "Slim Fit" and other times "Standard."
- Standard Fit: This is the bread and butter. It’s got enough room in the gut so you can eat a burger without feeling self-conscious, but the shoulders are crisp.
- Slim Fit: This is for the skinny legends. If you have any sort of chest muscle, the slim fit might feel a bit suffocating under the armpits.
Pro tip: Always check the tag for the material breakdown. If it's the "Everyday" line, it’s usually the blend. If it says "Premium," it's the Lyocell. The Premium ones run slightly larger because the fabric is heavier and more fluid.
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Why the color black matters for this specific brand
Black is the great equalizer of cheap clothing.
White t-shirts from budget brands are almost always too thin. You can see through them. Nobody wants that. But a Goodfellow black t shirt hides the fact that the fabric isn't 18oz Japanese loopwheel cotton. The dark pigment adds a perceived weight to the shirt. It masks the seams. It makes the $8 price tag look like $40.
There's also the sweat factor. If you’re a "heavy sweater," the Goodfellow blends are actually decent at moisture management compared to heavy 100% cotton shirts that just soak up water and stay heavy all day. The poly-blend helps the fabric breathe and dry a bit faster.
The competition: Goodfellow vs. Uniqlo vs. Old Navy
People always ask: "Why wouldn't I just go to Uniqlo?"
Fair question. The Uniqlo U Crew Neck is a beast. It’s thicker, more durable, and has that iconic boxy streetwear look. But Uniqlo's fit isn't for everyone. It’s very "fashion-forward." Goodfellow is for the guy who wants to look normal. Not boring, just... put together.
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Old Navy’s Soft-Washed tees are another rival. They are softer out of the box, for sure. But in my experience, Old Navy shirts lose their shape faster. The collar starts to do that "bacon" wave thing after a few months. The Goodfellow collar is remarkably sturdy. It stays flat. It stays tight. That’s the hallmark of a good cheap tee.
How to style it without looking like an NPC
The danger of the black tee is looking like you're wearing a uniform. To avoid the "tech support" or "stagehand" look, you have to play with textures.
Don't just wear it with blue jeans and sneakers. Try layering a Goodfellow black t shirt under an unbuttoned flannel or a denim jacket. Because it's a slimmer fit, it works perfectly as a base layer. It doesn't bunch up under your arms or create weird lumps under your outerwear.
For a more elevated look, tuck it into some olive chinos and throw on some leather boots. The contrast between the dark top and the earthy bottoms makes the outfit look intentional. It’s the "James Dean" starter pack, basically.
Does it hold up over time?
I’ve had a few of these in my rotation for over two years. The necklines are still solid. The main issue is "pilling"—those tiny little balls of fuzz that appear on the surface. This happens more with the poly-blends than the 100% cotton ones. You can shave them off with a fabric shaver, but honestly, at this price point, most guys just turn them into gym shirts and buy a fresh one.
The color fastness is surprisingly good. Usually, cheap black shirts turn purple or brown after exposure to sun and detergent. Target’s dye process seems to hold the "true black" better than H&M or Zara. It stays deep. It stays moody.
Addressing the "Ethical" Question
We should talk about where these come from. Target has been under pressure for years to clean up its supply chain. They’ve made commitments through the "Sustainable Apparel Coalition." While it’s still mass-produced clothing, Target is generally more transparent about their factories than some of the ultra-fast-fashion giants overseas. They have a "Vendor Code of Conduct" that's publicly available. Is it perfect? No. Is it better than buying from a random site that ships in a grey plastic bag from a mystery warehouse? Probably.
Making your Goodfellow shirts last longer
If you want to be a pro at maintaining your basics, stop using fabric softener. It sounds counterintuitive, but fabric softener actually coats the fibers in a waxy film that breaks down the elasticity over time. It makes the shirt feel "heavy" and less breathable.
Use a small amount of liquid detergent. Turn the shirt inside out. This prevents the outside of the fabric from rubbing against other clothes in the wash, which is what causes that pilling I mentioned earlier. Small steps, but they make a difference if you’re trying to get 50+ wears out of a single tee.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Target Run
- Size Up for the 100% Cotton: If the tag says "100% Cotton," buy one size larger than you think you need. It will shrink in the first wash.
- Stay True to Size for Blends: If it's a 60/40 blend or the Lyocell version, stick to your normal size. They hold their shape much better.
- The "Hanger" Test: Don't hang these shirts on thin wire hangers. It creates "shoulder nipples" (those weird bumps on the shoulders). Fold them or use wide-shouldered wooden hangers.
- Check the Hem: Before you buy, pull the bottom hem slightly. If the stitching looks tight and even, it’s a good batch. If you see loose threads, grab a different one from the pile.
- Ditch the Heat: Always, always, always dry on "Low" or "Air Dry." Your shirt's lifespan will literally double.
Buying a Goodfellow black t shirt isn't a high-stakes investment. It's a calculated move for anyone who wants a reliable, decent-looking foundation for their wardrobe without overthinking it. It’s the shirt that works when everything else is in the laundry. It's predictable in a world where fashion is usually anything but. Next time you're getting those lightbulbs, just grab one. You know you're going to use it.