You’re walking through the 1st Arrondissement in Paris, maybe heading toward the Louvre or grabbing an overpriced espresso near the Rue de Rivoli, and suddenly, there she is. A massive, gleaming, gold-leafed figure on horseback, charging toward an invisible enemy. It’s the Joan of Arc monument, specifically the one at Place des Pyramides.
It’s blinding. Literally. On a sunny day, the reflection off the 24-karat gold leaf is enough to make you squint. Most tourists snap a photo and move on, thinking it’s just another "old French statue." But honestly? This specific monument is a lightning rod for controversy, politics, and some pretty weird historical drama that most people completely miss.
The Joan of Arc Monument that Almost Didn't Happen
We think of Joan as this eternal symbol of France. But for a long time after she was burned at the stake in 1431, the French establishment was... conflicted. It wasn't until the 19th century that "Joan-mania" really kicked into high gear.
The monument you see in Paris today—the iconic gilded bronze equestrian statue—was commissioned after the disastrous Franco-Prussian War. France had just been humiliated. They needed a win. Or at least, they needed a symbol of someone who didn't take any nonsense from invaders.
Emmanuel Frémiet, the sculptor, was the guy for the job. He was obsessed with "animalier" sculpture, which is basically just a fancy way of saying he was a nerd about horse anatomy. He wanted the horse to look real. Not like a majestic, idealized war-steed, but like a sturdy, thick-legged Percheron—the kind of horse a peasant girl from Domrémy would actually ride.
The sculptor's secret redo
Here is a bit of trivia that'll make you look like a genius next time you’re in Paris. Frémiet actually hated his first version.
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Even though the public generally liked the Joan of Arc monument when it went up in 1874, Frémiet felt he’d messed up the proportions between the girl and the horse. He felt the horse was too big and the girl was too small. So, he waited. For fifteen years, he stewed. Then, during some street repairs in 1889, he secretly replaced the original statue with a revised version he’d paid for himself.
Imagine having that much ego and dedication. He just swapped out a public monument in the middle of the night because the scale bothered him. That’s the version you’re looking at now.
Why There’s a Joan of Arc Monument Everywhere Else, Too
If you think the one in Paris is unique, you're in for a surprise. Joan is everywhere.
There are hundreds of statues of her across the globe, but the Frémiet version is the "gold standard" (pun intended). You can find copies or variations of this specific Joan of Arc monument in:
- Philadelphia: Located near the Philadelphia Museum of Art. It was a gift from the French to celebrate the centennial of the U.S.
- Portland, Oregon: In the Laurelhurst neighborhood.
- New Orleans: The "Maid of Orleans" statue in the French Quarter. This one was a gift from the people of France in the 1950s, but the city actually couldn't afford the shipping costs at first, so it sat in a warehouse for years.
- Melbourne, Australia: Standing proudly outside the State Library of Victoria.
Why the obsession? It’s not just about religion. Joan represents the ultimate underdog. She’s a teenager with no military training who convinced a King to give her an army. Whether you're a feminist, a nationalist, a devout Catholic, or just someone who likes a "started from the bottom" story, Joan fits the bill.
The Controversy: Who Does Joan Belong To?
This is where things get spicy. In France, the Joan of Arc monument in Paris isn't just a place for tourists to take selfies. It’s a political battleground.
For decades, far-right political groups like the National Front (now National Rally) have used the Place des Pyramides statue as a rallying point. They see her as a symbol of French purity and resistance against foreign influence. They hold marches there every May.
On the flip side, the secular left and more moderate folks point out that Joan was a victim of the state and the church—a rebel who was basically murdered by the establishment.
If you visit the monument in early May, don't be surprised if you see flowers, protesters, or heavy police presence. It’s a living, breathing piece of political theater.
The Armor: Fact vs. Fiction
Let's talk about what she’s wearing. If you look closely at the Joan of Arc monument, she isn't wearing some flowy dress or a "female version" of armor. Frémiet was meticulous.
Joan actually wore men’s clothes and full plate armor. This was one of the big reasons the church eventually executed her—the "cross-dressing" charge was a huge part of her trial. The statue reflects this. She’s depicted in a suit of steel, holding her banner high.
Historical records (specifically the trial transcripts from 1431) tell us that she didn't actually fight with a sword most of the time. She preferred her banner because she didn't want to kill anyone. The statue captures that tension—the warrior who didn't want to shed blood, yet led the charge.
Spotting a "Fake" Joan
Not all Joan statues are created equal. You’ll see some where she looks like a saintly, delicate girl whispering to angels. These are usually from the late 19th-century "Sentimentalist" school.
Then you have the "Militant" Joans. These are the ones where she looks like she could take your head off. The Joan of Arc monument in Place des Pyramides is the bridge between these two. She’s focused, determined, but almost serene.
Practical Tips for Visiting the Paris Monument
If you’re planning to see the big one in Paris, here’s the move:
- Go at Sunset: The gold leaf catches the "blue hour" light in a way that makes it look like it’s glowing from within.
- Look at the Hooves: Check out the detail Frémiet put into the horse's musculature. It’s a masterclass in bronze casting.
- The Nearby Plaque: Look for the historical markers nearby that explain the siege of Paris. Most people don't realize Joan was actually wounded quite close to this spot while trying to take the city back from the English.
What Most People Get Wrong
People often assume this monument is centuries old. It’s not. It was unveiled in 1874.
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People also assume it’s solid gold. Absolutely not. It’s bronze, covered in a very thin layer of gold leaf. Maintenance is a nightmare. Every few years, the city of Paris has to shell out thousands of Euros to re-gild it because the pollution and rain eat away at the shine.
Honestly, the fact that the city keeps it so bright is a testament to how much she still matters to the French identity. Even if they can't agree on what she represents, they can all agree she should look spectacular.
Your Next Steps to See Joan
If you're a history buff or just someone who appreciates public art, don't stop at the statue.
- Visit the Pantheon: There are massive murals inside by Jules-Eugène Lenepveu that tell her whole life story. They are stunning and arguably more informative than the statue.
- Take a train to Rouen: It’s about 90 minutes from Paris. You can see the spot where she was actually burned and visit the "Historial Jeanne d’Arc," which is an immersive museum built into the old archbishop's palace.
- Check the local calendar: If you’re in Paris on the second Sunday of May, head to the Joan of Arc monument early. You’ll see the official national ceremonies, which are a wild mix of military pomp and historical reenactment.
The Joan of Arc monument is more than just a piece of metal on a pedestal. It's a 150-year-old "sorry" from the French government, a masterpiece of a perfectionist sculptor, and a constant reminder that a 19-year-old girl once changed the map of Europe. Go see it. Just bring sunglasses.
Actionable Insight: To get the best photograph of the Paris Joan of Arc monument without the crowds, arrive at Place des Pyramides before 8:30 AM. The traffic on Rue de Rivoli is lighter then, allowing you to cross the street safely to get the low-angle shot that makes the horse look as imposing as Frémiet intended.