Cambridge is weirdly small. You can walk across the historic center in about twenty minutes, yet most people spend that entire time looking at the same three colleges. They miss the edges. They miss the spots where the city actually breathes. If you've ever spent a rainy Tuesday wandering near Magdalene College, you've probably seen the brickwork of the Varsity Hotel and Spa tucked away on Thompson’s Lane. It’s not one of those sprawling, gold-leafed estates that feels like a museum. It’s a converted warehouse. It's industrial but polished. It feels like the city's private living room.
Honestly, the first thing you notice isn't the lobby. It’s the bike rack. This is Cambridge, after all.
What People Get Wrong About Staying Near the Cam
Most tourists think they need to stay in a drafty B&B to get the "authentic" university experience. That’s a mistake. You’ll end up with a squeaky bed and a lukewarm kettle. The Varsity Hotel and Spa flipped the script by taking an old warehouse and turning it into something that feels remarkably modern without losing the grit of the city's maritime history. You're steps from the River Cam, but you're not trapped in the 19th century.
The location is basically cheating. You are right next to the punting stations. If you want to see the Bridge of Sighs or King’s College Chapel, you just walk out the front door and turn left. But here’s the kicker: because it’s tucked down a side street, the noise of the day-trippers mostly disappears.
Each floor is themed. You might find yourself in a room inspired by a specific college or a bit of local lore. The design isn't subtle—think bold wallpaper and heavy fabrics—but it works because the building has the bones to support it. High ceilings. Big windows. Lots of light.
The Roof Terrace is the Real Main Character
Let’s be real. People go to the Varsity for the roof.
In a city where most buildings are strictly protected by ancient bylaws and "dreaming spires" sentimentality, having a panoramic rooftop bar is a massive flex. It’s arguably the best view in East Anglia. You can see the heavy gothic curves of St. John’s and the vast, flat greenery of Midsummer Common. On a clear day, the horizon just goes on forever.
It gets packed.
If you show up at 6:00 PM on a Friday in July, expect a wait. But sitting there with a gin and tonic while the sun dips behind the colleges? It’s one of those moments that makes you realize why people stay in this town for decades. The bar staff are surprisingly fast, even when the crowd is four deep. They don't do that annoying "mixology" thing where a drink takes twenty minutes to build; they just get you your glass so you can get back to the view.
Dining at SIX
Just below the terrace is SIX, the hotel’s main restaurant. It’s glass-walled. You get the view without the wind. The menu is... well, it's honest. You aren't getting molecular gastronomy or tiny portions of foam. It’s wood-fired pizzas, rotisserie chicken, and solid steaks. It’s the kind of food you actually want to eat after walking ten miles through museums.
👉 See also: Why You’re Probably Walking Right Past the S. Dillon Ripley Center Without Realizing It
One thing to watch out for: the afternoon tea. It’s a bit of a local institution. Unlike the stuffy hotels in London where you feel like you can't breathe, the vibe here is much more relaxed. You’ll see students celebrating graduations alongside couples on anniversaries. It’s a mix that keeps the place from feeling too precious.
The Spa and The Gym (Yes, People Actually Use Them)
The "Spa" part of the name isn't just marketing fluff. It’s located in the adjoining Glassworks building. This used to be an 18th-century maltings, and they’ve kept the brick and timber vibe. It’s moody and cool.
They use Elemis products. The treatments are standard fare—massages, facials, the usual—but the actual facility is the draw. There’s a hot tub that overlooks the river. Watching people struggle with punts while you're submerged in bubbling water is a strangely satisfying pastime.
The gym is surprisingly legit. Most hotel gyms are a sad treadmill and a broken dumbbell in a basement. This one is a full-scale athletic club. You’ll be working out alongside actual Cambridge residents, not just other hotel guests. It gives the whole place a grounded, lived-in feel.
Navigating the Logistics: What to Know Before You Book
Don't bring a big car. Just don't. Thompson's Lane is narrow, and Cambridge traffic is a nightmare designed by someone who hates internal combustion engines. Use the Park & Ride or take the train. The hotel offers valet parking, but even then, navigating the tiny streets is a stress you don't need on vacation.
- Check-in is at 3:00 PM. If you’re early, they’ll stash your bags. Go get a Chelsea Bun at Fitzbillies while you wait.
- The stairs are a thing. It’s an old building. There are lifts, obviously, but the layout can be a bit of a maze.
- The Penthouse is worth it. If you’re splurging, the top-floor suites have floor-to-ceiling windows. It’s like living in a lighthouse.
A Note on the "Cambridge Bubble"
Staying here puts you right in the middle of what locals call the "bubble." Everything is accessible. You’re near the ADC Theatre if you want to see the next generation of British actors. You’re near the Round Church. You’re near the best bookstores in the country.
But the Varsity Hotel and Spa also offers an exit from that bubble. When the crowds on King's Parade get to be too much, you can retreat to a place that feels distinct from the university's gravity. It’s a business, not an institution. That distinction matters.
The Verdict on Value
Is it expensive? Yeah, it’s not a budget stay. You’re paying for the real estate and the skyline. But compared to the traditional "grand" hotels in town, you get much more personality here. You aren't just another guest in a sea of tour groups.
The service is "Cambridge Polite." It’s efficient, a little bit quirky, and generally very helpful. If you ask for a recommendation for a pub that isn't a tourist trap, they'll actually tell you the truth (go to The Free Press, by the way).
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
To get the most out of a stay at the Varsity, you need a bit of a strategy.
First, book the rooftop for sunset the moment you confirm your room. It fills up days in advance during peak season. Even as a guest, you want a guaranteed spot.
Second, skip the hotel breakfast at least once. Walk five minutes to the Quayside and find a local bakery. Sitting by the water with a coffee while the rowing crews glide past at 7:30 AM is the most "Cambridge" experience you can have.
Third, use the spa off-peak. Go during the mid-morning on a weekday if you can. You’ll likely have the sauna and the river-view hot tub to yourself while everyone else is busy looking at old manuscripts.
Finally, walk the "Backs" at night. When you stay at the Varsity, you're perfectly positioned to see the colleges illuminated after the crowds have gone home. It’s quiet, it’s slightly eerie, and it’s beautiful.
This hotel isn't trying to be a museum piece. It’s a functional, stylish, and slightly loud celebration of what Cambridge is right now. It’s comfortable, it’s got the best view in the city, and it smells like expensive candles. Sometimes, that’s exactly what you need.