If you’ve ever stood on the banks of the Willamette River in downtown Portland, feeling the spray from a massive fountain or dodging a teenager on a longboard, you’ve experienced the heart of this city. It’s called Tom McCall Waterfront Park. It’s 37 acres of grass, paved paths, and historical markers that basically shouldn’t exist.
Honestly, the park is a miracle of stubbornness.
In the 1960s, this entire stretch was a roaring, six-lane freeway called Harbor Drive. It was loud. It was smelly. It cut the city off from its own river. But then came Governor Tom McCall—a man with a booming voice and a serious love for Oregon’s "livability." He did something radical. He tore the freeway down.
The Freeway That Became a Forest
Most cities build more roads when traffic gets bad. Portland did the opposite.
By 1974, Harbor Drive was gone, making Portland the first major U.S. city to successfully delete a freeway in favor of a park. It wasn't just about grass; it was about reclaiming the "front porch" of the city. Today, when you walk from the Steel Bridge down to RiverPlace, you're walking on what used to be hot asphalt and exhaust fumes.
It’s named after McCall because he championed the idea when everyone else thought he was crazy. He famously told tourists, "Visit, but for heaven's sake, don't stay." He wanted to protect the soul of the place. The park was dedicated in 1978 and renamed in his honor in 1984.
Why the "Bowl" is the place to be
There’s a section at the southern end known simply as "The Bowl." It’s a natural grassy amphitheater. If you’re here in July, you’ll find the Waterfront Blues Festival taking over. Thousands of people sitting on blankets, eating elephant ears, and listening to legends play.
But here’s a tip: it’s not just for festivals. On a random Tuesday, it’s one of the best spots to watch the Willamette. You’ve got the Hawthorne Bridge towering nearby, and the current of the river is surprisingly fast. Just don't try to swim there unless you're at the designated "Poet's Beach"—the current near the Bowl can be sketchy.
The Landmarks You Usually Walk Past
People tend to use the park as a shortcut, but you’re missing the good stuff if you don't stop.
- Salmon Street Springs: This isn't just a fountain; it’s a computer-controlled water show. It has three cycles: "misters," "bollards," and "wedding cake." On a 90-degree July day, it’s packed with kids and stressed-out office workers cooling off. It pumps nearly 5,000 gallons of water a minute.
- The Battleship Oregon Memorial: Look for the big mast. It honors a ship from 1893 nicknamed the "Bulldog of the Navy." Underneath it lies a time capsule sealed in 1976. It’s not scheduled to be opened until July 5, 2076. Mark your calendars, I guess?
- Japanese American Historical Plaza: This is the most emotional part of the park. It commemorates the people interned during WWII. There are 100 cherry trees here. In late March or early April, the "Akebono" cherry blossoms explode into pink. It’s beautiful, but it's also a place for reflection. The poems carved into the stones will stay with you.
The 2026 Reality: What’s Changing?
Look, I’ll be real with you. The park has had a rough few years.
Post-pandemic foot traffic in downtown Portland took a hit. You might see some temporary fencing or sections of the lawn that look a bit tired. But the city isn't letting it slide. As of early 2026, there’s a massive project underway to redesign "The Bowl."
The Metro regional government recently dumped $750,000 into a design competition to make the southern end of the park more "flood-resilient" and better for swimming. They're calling it the Waterfront Bowl Redevelopment Project. They want to "re-wild" parts of the bank and make it easier to get into the water safely.
Is it safe?
This is the question everyone asks.
During the day? Absolutely. It’s full of joggers, bike commuters, and tourists. At night? It’s like any urban park. Use common sense. The park is better lit than it used to be, and the Portland Rose Festival (which takes over the park every June) keeps things lively.
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How to Actually Do the Park Right
Don't just walk in a straight line.
Start at the North: Begin at the Japanese American Historical Plaza near the Burnside Bridge.
Walk the Loop: Cross the Steel Bridge, walk down the Eastbank Esplanade (on the other side of the river), and then come back across the Tilikum Crossing or the Hawthorne Bridge. It’s about a 3-mile loop.
The Saturday Market: If it's a weekend, the market sets up right under the Burnside Bridge. It’s the oldest continuously operating open-air crafts market in the country. Get the spicy noodles. Trust me.
Quick Facts for the Road
- Size: 36.59 acres.
- Peak Hours: 11:00 AM to 1:00 PM (lunch crowd is real).
- Best Photo Op: The white "Portland Oregon" sign (Old Town Sign) visible from the Burnside Bridge looking west.
- The "Founders Stone": It’s in the park. It honors the coin toss between Pettygrove and Lovejoy that decided the city’s name. If the coin landed differently, you’d be visiting Boston, Oregon.
What Most People Get Wrong
A lot of folks think the park is just a "festival ground."
Sure, the Oregon Brewers Festival and the Rose Festival CityFair bring the crowds, but the park’s true value is in the quiet moments. It’s the gap in the skyscrapers. It’s where you realize that Portland is, at its core, a river town.
The Willamette isn't just a backdrop; it's the reason the city exists. Tom McCall knew that. By removing the freeway, he gave the river back to the people.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit:
- Download the "Portland Parks" map before you go; cell service can be spotty near the bridges.
- Rent a Biketown bike. The park is part of a massive trail network, and you can cover the whole length in 10 minutes.
- Check the bloom tracker. If you're coming for the cherry blossoms, follow the Portland Parks & Recreation Instagram—they post daily updates in March so you don't miss the peak.
- Pack a picnic. There are plenty of benches, but the grass near the Salmon Street Springs is the prime real estate.
Whether you're here for the history, the blossoms, or just a place to sit away from the traffic, Tom McCall Waterfront Park is the soul of Portland. Go see it.
Next Steps for Your Portland Adventure:
- Map your route: Use the Portland Parks & Recreation website to check for any trail closures due to the Burnside Bridge construction.
- Check the Event Calendar: If you're visiting in June or July, book your festival tickets early—the Waterfront Blues Festival usually sells out weeks in advance.
- Visit the Oregon Maritime Museum: It’s actually located on a steam-powered sternwheeler moored right in the park.