You’ve seen them on vending machines, those high-end bike locks, or maybe the coin box at a local laundromat. They look tough. Formidable. A little circle of семь (seven) or eight pins staring back at you like a miniature vault door. Most people assume that because the key is round, the lock is somehow unpickable or requires some CIA-level clearance to bypass. Honestly? That is just not the case. Learning how to pick a tubular pin tumbler lock is actually one of the more rewarding skills for a hobbyist locksmith or someone who just happens to lose their keys way too often. It’s mechanical, it’s tactile, and it’s surprisingly straightforward once you stop being intimidated by the shape.
The circular design is really just a standard pin tumbler lock wrapped into a ring. Instead of the pins being stacked in a straight line like your front door, they are arranged in a circle. Each pin moves horizontally—or vertically, depending on how you're holding it—pushing against a spring. When you insert the correct key, the "teeth" of that hollow metal tube push the pins to the exact depth needed to hit the shear line. Once all pins are at the shear line, the plug rotates. Simple.
Why Tubular Locks Aren't as Scary as They Look
Most folks see a Kryptonite bike lock and think it's invincible. Early on, that was almost true, until a massive scandal in the early 2000s proved you could open a high-end tubular lock with nothing but a Bic pen. No, seriously. You could just jam the plastic casing of a ballpoint pen into the lock, wiggle it around, and the soft plastic would take the impression of the pins, turning the lock. It was a disaster for security companies.
Modern locks have fixed that specific vulnerability by using harder materials and varying spring tensions, but the core physics remain the same. If you can apply tension and find the "binding" pin, you can open it. The trick with a tubular pin tumbler lock is that you have to pick it in "stages" because as you rotate the plug, the pins might re-lock into the next position. It's a bit like a dance where you have to keep resetting your feet.
The Gear You Actually Need
Don’t try to use paperclips. Just don't. You’ll end up snapping the metal inside the lock and then you’re truly stuck with a "drill-out" scenario.
If you want to do this right, you need a dedicated tubular lock pick. Brands like SouthOrd or GOSO make these tools that look like a thick metal wand with several "fingers" or wires protruding from the end. These tools are beautiful bits of engineering. They have a sliding collar that allows you to adjust the tension of those fingers. Basically, the tool does the work of "feeling" the pin resistance for you.
You can also use a single-pin picking (SPP) method with a specialized tension wrench that looks like a little two-pronged fork. This is way harder. It requires the patience of a saint. You have to go around the circle, pin by pin, over and over, until the whole thing gives way. Most professionals go for the specialized tubular pick because it’s faster and acts as a "decoder," meaning once the lock is open, you can actually read the pin depths off the tool and cut a new key.
The Step-by-Step Reality of Picking
First, you've gotta prep the tool. If you’re using an Ace-type pick, slide the collar back so the picking needles are flush with the tip. Tighten the tension nut just enough so the needles can move but have some resistance.
- Insert the tool. Make sure the "keyway" notch on the tool aligns with the notch in the lock. If you don't line these up, you're just pushing against solid metal.
- Apply even pressure. Push the pick into the lock firmly. You’re trying to get the needles to feel the resistance of the springs.
- The "Wiggle." It’s not a violent shake. It’s a subtle, rhythmic compression. You push in, let off, and slightly turn. You’ll feel the pins clicking as they find their home at the shear line.
- The Turn. Suddenly, the resistance vanishes. The tool rotates.
But wait. This is where most beginners fail. On many tubular locks, the plug will only turn about 45 degrees before it clicks again. Why? Because the pins just jumped into the next available holes. You haven't failed; you just have to repeat the process. Depending on the lock, you might have to "pick" it three or four times to get a full 360-degree rotation to actually retract the bolt.
Common Pitfalls and Misconceptions
One thing people get wrong is tension. If you tighten the picking tool too much, the pins won't move at all. If it's too loose, the pins will just bounce back and never "set." It's a goldilocks situation. You need it just right.
Also, watch out for "variable tension" springs. Some high-security tubular locks use different strengths of springs for different pins. Pin one might be "mushy" while pin four feels like it's made of granite. This is a deliberate tactic to throw off the "impressioning" style of picking. In these cases, you almost always have to go back to SPP (Single Pin Picking).
Legality and Ethics
Look, picking a lock you don't own is a crime. Period. Lockpicking is a "lifestyle" hobby for many—often called locksport—but it relies on a strict code of ethics. Rule number one: never pick a lock that is "in use." If you mess up a lock on your front door, you’re sleeping on the porch. If you mess up a lock that doesn't belong to you, you're looking at a felony.
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Check your local laws. in some states, just owning "burglary tools" is enough to get you in trouble if you don't have a locksmith license, though in most places, it's perfectly legal to own them for hobby purposes. Just keep them at home.
Practical Steps to Master the Skill
If you actually want to learn how to pick a tubular pin tumbler lock, don't start on a real vending machine. That’s a recipe for a bad night.
- Buy a practice lock. Get a clear acrylic tubular lock or a "cutaway" lock. Seeing the pins move as you manipulate the tool changes everything. It turns a "feel" into a "visual."
- Start with a 7-pin. Most tubular locks are 7-pin or 8-pin. The 7-pin is the classic "Ace" style and is generally more forgiving for learners.
- Learn to Reset. Practice resetting your tool and the lock. If you get a pin "overset" (pushed too far), the lock will never open. You have to learn the sound of a pin dropping back down when you release tension.
- Study the Shear Line. Understanding the physics of where the driver pin meets the key pin is the "Aha!" moment for every picker.
Once you get the hang of it, there is a weirdly satisfying "thunk" when the lock finally gives. It’s a mechanical victory. It’s about understanding the flaws in human engineering and realizing that most "security" is really just an illusion of complexity. Keep your tools clean, don't force anything, and remember that patience is your most important tool in the bag.
Next Steps for Success
To move from theory to practice, your first move should be acquiring a 7-pin tubular pick with an adjustable tension collar. Avoid the cheap "no-name" sets found on generic auction sites, as the picking needles are often too brittle and snap inside the lock. Spend the extra twenty dollars on a hardened steel version. Start by practicing on a standalone tubular cam lock—the kind used for cabinet drawers—rather than a lock that is currently mounted or in use. Focus on the "feel" of the pins resetting; once you can identify the sensation of a pin hitting the shear line versus a pin being trapped, you’ve mastered 90% of the craft.