Winter gear is a racket. You walk into a big-box sporting goods store, see a wall of puffy coats, and suddenly you're expected to be a textile engineer to figure out if you'll actually stay warm at a freezing bus stop. Most people just grab the one that looks the least bulky. But if you’ve been eyeing an under armour winter jacket, you’ve probably noticed they don’t always look like those massive, marshmallow-style parkas from the 90s. There’s a reason for that, and honestly, it’s usually misunderstood.
Under Armour basically built its entire brand on "wicking sweat." That was their thing in the 90s. When they moved into cold weather, they didn't just add more stuffing. They leaned into a technology called ColdGear Infrared. You’ve probably seen the weird, ceramic-looking pattern printed on the inside of their coats. It looks like a honeycomb or a series of geometric webs. Most shoppers think it’s just a design choice or some marketing gimmick. It’s not. It’s actually a soft, thermo-conductive inner coating that absorbs and retains your own body heat.
It’s weirdly effective.
Think about it this way: a traditional down jacket works by trapping air in little pockets. That’s "loft." If the loft gets wet or compressed, you freeze. Under Armour's approach with their winter line is more about "radiant heat." By using that ceramic print, the jacket is essentially recycling the energy you’re already putting out. This is why you’ll see runners in Chicago wearing what looks like a light windbreaker in 20-degree weather. It’s not that they’re superhuman; it’s that the jacket is working harder than a standard fleece.
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The Difference Between UA Storm and UA CGI
You’re going to see these two terms everywhere: "Storm" and "CGI." They aren't the same thing.
UA Storm is about the outside. It’s a DWR (Durable Water Repellent) finish. If you pour water on it, the beads should just roll off like they’re on a waxed car. However—and this is a big however—Storm has levels. Storm 1 is water-resistant. Storm 2 is highly water-resistant (and usually windproof). Storm 3 is actually waterproof. If you buy a Storm 1 under armour winter jacket and expect to stand in a sleet storm for three hours, you’re going to have a bad time. You’ll be soaked.
CGI (ColdGear Infrared) is the inside. This is the "warmth" factor.
Why the "ColdGear" label is confusing
Under Armour uses the "ColdGear" tag for everything from $50 leggings to $400 parkas. This leads to a lot of frustration. I’ve talked to people who bought a ColdGear mock neck shirt, went skiing in it without a shell, and complained they were cold. Well, yeah. ColdGear is a category, not a specific temperature rating. When looking for a legitimate under armour winter jacket, you need to look for the "Reactor" or "Down" designations.
The UA Reactor line is pretty fascinating because it’s "intelligent" insulation. It actually adapts to your activity level. If you start sprinting to catch a train, the insulation allows more heat to escape so you don't get that gross, clammy feeling. When you stop moving, the fibers tighten up to trap heat. It’s great for people who hate taking their coat off and on every time they step inside a store.
Real Talk: Down vs. Synthetic in UA Jackets
Under Armour uses both. Their high-end winter coats often feature 700-fill or 800-fill power Allied goose down. This is the gold standard. It’s light. It packs down to nothing. It’s incredibly warm.
But down has a massive weakness.
If it gets wet, it loses its ability to hold heat. Period. This is why UA often mixes their down with PrimaLoft or their own proprietary synthetic fills. Synthetic insulation keeps working even when it’s damp. For anyone living in the Pacific Northwest or parts of the UK where "winter" just means "slightly colder rain," a synthetic-heavy under armour winter jacket is actually a smarter move than a pure down one.
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The "Curse" of the Athletic Fit
Here is where a lot of people mess up their purchase. Under Armour is an athletic brand. Their stuff is cut for athletes.
If you have a broader build or if you plan on wearing a thick wool sweater underneath your coat, you almost certainly need to size up. Their "Fitted" cut is very close to the body. It’s designed that way to keep the Infrared lining in contact with your heat signature. But if it’s too tight, you lose that layer of air that helps insulate you. It’s a delicate balance.
I’ve seen dozens of reviews where people claim the jackets "don't work," only to realize they were wearing a size too small, which compressed the insulation and left no room for their body to actually generate a heat pocket.
The Durability Factor
Let's be real: Under Armour isn't Patagonia or Arc'teryx. You aren't necessarily buying this to pass down to your grandkids after 40 years of Himalayan expeditions. But for the price point? It’s tough.
The ripstop fabrics they use on the outer shells of the "UA Porter" or "UA Skysweeper" series are genuinely rugged. They can handle a dog jumping on you or brushing up against a brick wall without immediately shredding. The zippers are usually heavy-duty YKK, which is the only brand of zipper anyone should ever trust. If a jacket has a generic plastic zipper, run away.
What Most People Miss: The Hood and Cuffs
If you’re looking at an under armour winter jacket, check the "ColdGear" cuffs. A lot of their better models have a secondary sleeve inside the main sleeve. It’s a stretchy material that hooks around your thumb or just sits tight against your wrist.
This is huge.
Most heat loss in a jacket happens at the openings—the neck, the waist, and the wrists. These "storm cuffs" prevent the "chimney effect" where cold air rushes up your arm every time you move. If the jacket you're looking at doesn't have these, you'll need some seriously good gloves to bridge the gap.
As for the hoods, Under Armour's "MagZip" technology was a big deal a few years ago (it used magnets to help you zip up with one hand), but they’ve phased it out in many models because, honestly, it was finicky. Now, they focus more on high-neck collars. A good UA winter coat should zip up past your chin. If it stops at the base of your throat, you're going to need a scarf, which is just one more thing to lose.
Is it worth the price?
You’re usually looking at $150 to $350 for a solid under armour winter jacket.
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That’s a middle-of-the-road price. You can get a cheap puffer at a warehouse club for $40, and you can spend $1,200 on a designer parka. Under Armour sits in that sweet spot where you're paying for actual textile tech—like the Infrared lining—without paying a "luxury tax" just for a logo.
Honestly, if you're an active person—someone who shovels snow, walks the dog, or goes to football games—the UA tech makes sense. If you just walk 30 feet from your house to a heated car, it’s probably overkill.
Actionable Steps for Choosing Your Jacket
To make sure you don't waste your money, follow this checklist before hitting "buy."
- Check the Storm Level: If you live in a snowy or rainy climate, look specifically for "Storm 3." If you’re just dealing with wind and light flurries, "Storm 1" or "Storm 2" is fine and will be more breathable.
- Identify the Fill: Look at the tag. If it says "800-fill down," it’s for extreme cold. If it says "Microthread" or "Reactor," it’s for "active cold" (meaning you’ll be moving around).
- The "Sit Down" Test: When you try on an under armour winter jacket, sit down in it. Because of the athletic cut, these jackets can often get tight around the hips or "ride up" in the shoulders. If it feels restrictive while sitting, you need to size up.
- Look for the Pattern: Flip the jacket inside out. If you don't see that silver/zinc ceramic pattern (the CGI), you're missing out on the brand's best heat-retention feature.
- Wash it Right: Never, ever use fabric softener on these jackets. It clogs the pores of the "Storm" coating and ruins the breathability of the Infrared lining. Use a technical wash like Nikwax or just a very mild detergent and tumble dry on low with a few clean tennis balls to fluff the insulation back up.
The tech in an under armour winter jacket isn't magic, but it is science. It’s about managing moisture and reflecting heat. If you pick the right "Storm" level and don't squeeze yourself into a size that's too small, it's one of the most reliable ways to get through a February polar vortex without looking like a giant blueberry.