Rad Power Bikes basically kickstarted the e-bike revolution in North America. Walk through any beach town or suburban neighborhood and you’ll see that signature orange "Rad" logo on a chunky downtube. But now that the brand has been around for over a decade, the secondary market is absolutely flooded. Finding a used Rad Power Bike isn't the hard part; the hard part is not buying a $1,500 paperweight that needs a new battery the minute you get it home.
It’s tempting. You see a RadRunner on Facebook Marketplace for $700. It looks clean. The seller says they "hardly used it." But "hardly used" is often code for "I let the lithium-ion battery sit in a freezing garage for two winters without charging it."
That’s how you get burned.
Why Used Rad Power Bikes Are Everywhere Right Now
The e-bike boom of 2020 and 2021 was a wild time. Rad Power Bikes, led then by founder Mike Radenbaugh, couldn't keep up with demand. People bought them on impulse. Fast forward a few years, and many of those bikes are gathering dust. This is great news for you because the supply of used Rad Power Bikes is high, which keeps prices down.
Rad’s business model relied on standardized parts. This is their secret sauce for the used buyer. Unlike some high-end e-bikes that use proprietary mid-drive motors from Bosch or Shimano that require certified technicians, Rad uses Bafang hub motors and fairly standard controllers. If something breaks on a used RadRover 5, you can actually fix it. You don't need a degree in electrical engineering, just a set of Allen wrenches and maybe a YouTube tutorial from guys like CitizenCycle or Area 13.
The Battery Reality Check
Let’s talk about the elephant in the room: the battery. A brand-new replacement battery from Rad Power Bikes usually costs between $500 and $600. If you buy a used Rad Power Bike for $800 and the battery is shot, you haven't found a deal. You’ve just paid full price for a used bike.
Lithium-ion batteries hate two things: being stored at 0% and being stored at 100%. If a seller tells you the bike has been sitting in a shed for a year, ask them if they kept the battery inside. If they didn't, be skeptical. When you go to inspect the bike, bring a multimeter if you know how to use one, or at the very least, check the "state of charge" lights on the battery itself. Better yet, insist on a test ride that lasts at least fifteen minutes. A battery can show a full charge at a standstill but "sag" and cut out the moment you hit a hill.
I’ve seen dozens of people get excited about a vintage RadWagon only to realize the battery cells have degraded to the point where the range is less than five miles. Don’t be that person.
The Models Worth Your Money (and the Ones to Skip)
Not all Rads are created equal. The RadRunner 1 is arguably the most reliable used e-bike on the planet. It’s a tank. It has a single-speed drivetrain, which means there’s no derailleur to get bent or go out of alignment. It’s the perfect "beater" e-bike.
Then you have the RadWagon 4. You might remember the massive tire recall in 2022. Rad had to replace thousands of tires because of a ribbing issue that caused blowouts. If you’re looking at a used RadWagon 4, look at the sidewalls of the tires. If they don't have the updated ribbed texture or if they look cracked, you’re looking at a safety hazard.
- RadRover: Great for trails, but the 4-inch fat tires are loud on pavement and heavy to pedal if the motor dies.
- RadMission: The "budget" model. It’s much lighter, but it was discontinued. Finding specific replacement parts for the Mission can be a bit more annoying than the Runner or Rover.
- RadCity: Designed for commuters. The older versions used direct-drive motors which are silent but don't have as much torque for hills as the geared hub motors found on the Rover.
Identifying Mechanical Red Flags
Check the odometer. Rad's displays show total mileage. Anything under 500 miles is practically new. 500 to 2,000 miles is the "sweet spot" where the price should drop significantly but the mechanicals are still solid. Once you get over 3,000 miles, you’re looking at worn-out brake pads, stretched chains, and potentially worn-out nylon gears inside the hub motor.
Listen to the motor. It should hum, not grind. If you hear a rhythmic clicking coming from the rear wheel, it might be a broken spoke—a common issue on the heavier RadWagons—or it could be the planetary gears inside the motor losing their teeth.
Look at the brake calipers. Most used Rad Power Bikes use mechanical disc brakes (Tektro Aries is the standard). These are notorious for needing frequent adjustments. If the levers pull all the way to the handlebar, the seller hasn't maintained the bike. It's an easy fix, but it's a good bargaining chip.
The "Grey Market" and Upgrades
One reason people love Rad is the "mod" community. You might find a used bike that has a Bolton (now Area 13) controller or a different display. This allows the bike to go faster than the factory-set 20 mph.
While more speed is fun, it puts more stress on the motor and the battery. If a bike has been "hot-rodded," check for melted connectors near the controller. Rad uses "Julet" style waterproof connectors, but pushing too many amps through them can sometimes cause heat issues. If the wiring looks like a bird's nest of electrical tape, walk away.
Where to Actually Find the Deals
Skip eBay. Shipping a 70-pound bike costs a fortune, and they often arrive damaged. Your best bets are:
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- Upway: They are a professional e-bike refurbisher. You’ll pay a bit more than a private sale, but they certify the battery and give you a warranty.
- Facebook Marketplace: Use search alerts. The good deals usually vanish within two hours.
- The Rad Power Bikes Owners Group: There are several on Facebook and Reddit. These are enthusiasts who usually take better care of their gear than the average commuter.
A Note on Legalities and Safety
Check the frame for cracks, especially around the folding hinge if you’re looking at a RadExpand or RadPower Step-Thru. These frames take a lot of stress. Also, verify the serial number. You can check it against databases like BikeIndex to make sure you aren't buying a stolen ride. If the seller doesn't have the charger or the keys to the battery, it's a massive red flag that the bike might be hot.
Honestly, the used market is the smartest way to get into e-biking. You let someone else take the 30% depreciation hit that happens the moment the bike is unboxed. Just be diligent.
How to Close the Deal Like a Pro
When you’re standing there looking at the bike, be quiet. Let the seller talk. They’ll usually tell you exactly why they’re selling it and what’s wrong with it if you give them enough silence.
Test the brakes.
Test the lights.
Test every level of pedal assist.
Shift through all the gears.
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If the bike has 1,500 miles on it and the original tires, tell the seller you'll need $100 off to replace the rubber. If the brake pads are thin, that’s another $40. Most people just want the bike out of their garage and will negotiate if you show them real mechanical reasons why the price should be lower.
Actionable Next Steps
- Determine your "Must-Haves": Do you actually need a cargo bike like the RadWagon, or is a RadRunner enough? Cargo bikes are harder to store and transport.
- Search "Rad Power Bike" on Facebook Marketplace and filter by "Last 24 Hours" to see the current market rate in your specific city. Prices in Seattle or San Francisco will be higher than in rural areas.
- Download the manual for the specific model year you are looking at from the Rad Power Bikes website so you know exactly how the display should function before you meet the seller.
- Budget for a Tune-up: Even a "perfect" used bike should go to a local shop for a safety check. Account for an extra $100-$150 in your total cost for a professional alignment and safety inspection.
- Verify Battery Compatibility: If you're buying an older "Legacy" Rad bike, make sure the battery style (External vs. Semi-Integrated) is still available for purchase in case you need a spare.