You're scrolling through Zillow at 2 AM. You find it. The kitchen has that weirdly specific sage green tile you love, and the backyard doesn't look like a dirt pit. Then the anxiety hits. You start wondering about your FICO. Specifically, what credit score do you need to buy house before a loan officer laughs you out of the office?
Honestly, the answer isn't a single number. It’s a moving target.
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Most people think you need a 700 to even get a foot in the door. That’s just flat-out wrong. You can actually snag a mortgage with a score as low as 500 in very specific scenarios, though I wouldn’t exactly recommend it unless you enjoy paying a small fortune in interest. The "magic number" depends entirely on the flavor of loan you’re chasing.
The 620 Myth and the FHA Reality
If you’re looking at a conventional loan—the kind backed by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac—you usually need a 620. That is the industry standard baseline. Drop to 619, and the computer usually spits out a "Refer with Caution" or just a straight-up "No."
But let’s talk about the Federal Housing Administration (FHA). They are the heavy lifters for first-time buyers.
If you have a 10% down payment, the FHA technically allows scores down to 500. Yeah, 500. If you only have 3.5% down, you need a 580. Now, just because the government says it’s okay doesn't mean every bank will play ball. This is what we call "lender overlays." A bank like Wells Fargo or a local credit union might see the FHA’s 580 limit and say, "Cool, but our internal rule is 620." It’s annoying. It’s frustrating. But it’s how they protect their shirts.
Why Your "Free" Score Is Probably Lying To You
You check your "VantageScore" on a free app. It says 740. You feel like a king. Then you apply for a mortgage, and the lender says you’re at a 712. What gives?
Mortgage lenders use a very specific version of your FICO score. Usually, it's FICO Score 2, 4, and 5. These models are older. They are "sensitive." They care way more about your credit utilization and your history of late payments than the shiny new algorithms used by credit card apps. When you ask what credit score do you need to buy house, you have to make sure you're looking at the right data set.
They take the middle score of the three bureaus (Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion). If your scores are 680, 710, and 715, your qualifying score is 710. If you’re buying with a partner? They take the lower of the two middle scores. If your spouse has a 620 middle score and you have an 800, sorry—you’re a 620 family now.
The High Cost of "Just Barely" Qualifying
Let's get real about the math.
Liking the idea of a 580 score is one thing. Living with it is another. The gap between a 620 score and a 760 score can easily cost you $100,000 in interest over the life of a 30-year loan. That’s a Porsche. Or a lot of college tuitions.
- 760+: You get the "Elite" rates. You are the belle of the ball.
- 700-759: Good rates. You'll still pay a bit more than the top tier, but it’s manageable.
- 640-690: This is the "Muddling Through" zone. You’ll get the house, but your monthly payment will sting.
- 580-620: You are in "Subprime" territory. Expect higher fees and probably some intense scrutiny of your bank statements.
Mortgage Insurance (PMI) also cares about your score. If you put down less than 20% on a conventional loan, you pay PMI. A 640 score might have a PMI payment of $250 a month, while a 740 score might only pay $80 for the exact same house. It adds up. Fast.
VA and USDA: The Wildcards
If you’re a veteran, the VA loan is the undisputed heavyweight champion of mortgages. Technically, the VA doesn't have a minimum credit score requirement. They focus on "residual income"—basically, do you have enough cash left over at the end of the month to buy groceries and gas? However, most VA lenders still want to see a 580 or 600.
Then there’s the USDA loan for rural properties. They usually want a 640 for their automated underwriting system. You can go lower, but a human underwriter has to manually review your file, which is about as fun as a root canal. They’ll want to know why your score is low. Was it a medical emergency? A divorce? If it was just "I forgot to pay my Best Buy card for six months," they’re going to pass.
Does Your Debt-to-Income Ratio Save a Bad Score?
Sometimes.
Lenders look at the "Whole Picture," or at least they claim to. If you have a 630 score but you make $200,000 a year and have zero debt, you’re a much better bet than someone with a 720 score who is drowning in car payments and student loans.
Your Debt-to-Income (DTI) ratio is the silent killer. Most programs want your total debt—including the new mortgage—to be under 43% of your gross monthly income. Some FHA loans push this to 50% or even 56% if your credit is decent, but that’s living on the edge.
Boosting the Number Before You Ping the Bank
If you’re sitting at a 610 and you need a 620, don't panic. You don't always need years to fix it.
The fastest way to jump starts is "Rapid Rescoring." If you pay down a credit card balance, it usually takes a month for the bureau to see it. With a rapid rescore, your lender can force an update in 3-5 business days. It costs a little money, but if it moves you from a "No" to a "Yes," it’s the best money you’ll ever spend.
Also, stop opening new cards. Every time you hit "Apply" for a 10% discount at a department store, your score takes a tiny hit. When you're hunting for a house, your credit should be under a glass dome. Don't touch it. Don't breathe on it. Don't even think about a new car lease.
The "Manual Underwriting" Escape Hatch
What if you have no credit? Not bad credit, but no credit.
This happens to "Dave Ramsey" types who pay cash for everything. You can still buy a house. It’s called manual underwriting. You provide 12 months of on-time rent receipts, utility bills, and insurance payments. It proves you’re a responsible human being even if you don't have a plastic card in your wallet. Not every lender does this—Churchill Mortgage is famous for it—but it’s a viable path if you’re "credit invisible."
Real-World Steps to Take Right Now
Stop guessing. If you’re serious about knowing what credit score do you need to buy house, you need a plan that isn't based on hope.
First, get your actual reports from AnnualCreditReport.com. It’s free. Look for errors. One "late" payment that was actually on time can tank your score by 50 points. Dispute that immediately.
Second, look at your credit utilization. If your limits are $1,000 and you owe $900, your score is dying. Get that balance under $300 (30%) or, better yet, $100 (10%). This is the single fastest lever you can pull to change your score.
Third, talk to a local mortgage broker. Not a big national "push button, get mortgage" site. A human. They can run a "What-If" simulator on your specific credit report. It will tell you exactly which cards to pay off to get the maximum point gain.
Fourth, if your score is below 580, focus on the "Big Three": no late payments for 12 months, lowering balances, and keeping old accounts open. Age of credit matters. Don't close that old card you got in college just because you don't use it. That history is holding your score up like a pillar.
Buying a house is a marathon. If your score isn't there today, it doesn't mean you're disqualified from the American Dream. It just means your closing date is six months further out than you thought. Better to wait and get a 4.5% rate than rush in with a 580 and get stuck with an 8% rate that bleeds you dry every month.
Take the time to build the foundation. The sage green kitchen will still be there, or an even better one will pop up. Your credit score is just a tool. Sharpen it before you try to build a life with it.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Download your official FICO mortgage scores (2, 4, and 5) via a service like MyFICO to see what lenders actually see.
- Calculate your current DTI by dividing your total monthly debt payments by your gross monthly income.
- If you are within 20 points of a higher "tier," prioritize paying down revolving credit card balances to under 10% utilization.
- Interview at least three lenders to ask about their specific "lender overlays" for FHA and Conventional loans.