Ever tried to measure your dog and realized you have no clue where to start? You aren't alone. Most people just guess. They aim for the head or the middle of the back, but if you want an actual, accurate measurement—the kind a vet or a breeder uses—you have to find the withers.
The withers.
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It sounds like something out of a Victorian novel or maybe a specialized piece of farming equipment. In reality, it’s just a ridge. Specifically, it’s the highest point of a dog’s shoulder blades.
If you run your hand down your dog’s neck, right where the base of the neck meets the beginning of the back, you’ll feel two bony peaks. Those are the tops of the scapulae (shoulder blades). That spot? That's the withers. It’s the standard anchor point for everything from height charts to harness fittings.
The anatomy of the ridge
To understand what are withers on a dog, you have to look at how their skeleton is put together. Unlike humans, dogs don't have a collarbone (clavicle) that connects their front limbs to their skeleton. Their shoulders are basically held on by a complex "sling" of muscle and ligament.
The withers are formed by the dorsal processes of the thoracic vertebrae. Basically, these are the tall bits of bone that stick up from the spine at the base of the neck. When a dog stands naturally, these bony protrusions create the highest point of their back.
Why does this matter?
Because the head and neck are mobile. If you measured a dog to the top of its head, its height would change every time it looked at a squirrel. The withers stay put. They provide a stable, consistent "zero point" for measurement.
Finding the spot on your own dog
Finding the withers is easier on some dogs than others. On a Greyhound or a Doberman, they’re usually quite prominent. You can see the ridge clearly. On a fluffy Samoyed or a chunky Bulldog? Good luck. You’re going to have to dig your fingers in a bit.
Here is how you do it.
Stand your dog on a flat, level surface. If they are slouching or looking up at a treat, the measurement will be off. Feel along the top of the neck until you hit the area where the shoulder blades meet the spine.
Press down gently.
You’re looking for the highest point of that bony ridge. If you’re measuring for a crate or a coat, this is your mark. It’s the "true north" of canine anatomy.
Why the withers dictate how your dog moves
The slope of the withers tells a whole story about a dog’s athleticism. In the world of dog showing and agility, judges talk about "well-laid-back shoulders." This refers to the angle of the scapula relative to the withers.
If a dog has a short, upright shoulder, their stride is usually choppy. They can’t reach out as far with their front paws. But if those withers are set further back and the shoulder blade is angled properly, the dog can cover more ground with less effort. Think of a Border Collie or a German Shepherd. Their movement looks effortless because their skeletal structure—centered at the withers—is optimized for efficiency.
It’s not just about looks.
A dog with poor wither structure might be more prone to repetitive strain injuries or early-onset arthritis in the front assembly. This is why breeders get so obsessed with "topline." The topline is the silhouette of a dog’s back from the withers to the tail. A dip right behind the withers is often called a "soft topline," and it usually points to weak back muscles or ligament issues.
Measuring for gear: Don't mess this up
If you’re buying a harness, specifically a Y-shaped or "no-pull" harness, the withers are your primary landmark.
Most people make the mistake of fitting a harness too high. If the straps sit on the neck, you’re basically just using a fancy collar that can still put pressure on the trachea. A properly fitted harness should sit just below the withers, allowing the shoulder blades to move freely.
If the harness covers the withers or restricts them, your dog’s gait will change. They’ll start taking shorter steps. Over time, this messes with their joints.
When you're looking for a dog coat, you usually measure from the withers to the base of the tail. If you start at the collar, the coat will likely be too long and hang over the back end, getting messy when the dog goes to the bathroom. Start at that bony ridge.
Common misconceptions and "wither" myths
One weird thing I see a lot is people thinking the withers are the same as the "nape." They aren't. The nape is the back of the neck. The withers are part of the back.
There is also a myth that you can judge a dog's weight by their withers.
While you shouldn't see the ribs, the withers should be somewhat palpable. If you can’t feel the bony tops of the shoulders at all because there is a thick layer of fat over them, your dog might be overweight. Conversely, if the withers look like sharp, jagged peaks with no muscle around them, the dog might be underweight or losing muscle mass due to age.
The "Aha!" moment for crate sizing
Buying a crate? Check the wither height.
A dog needs to be able to stand up and turn around. While their head might be higher than their withers, the wither height is the best indicator of the "bulk" of the dog. Most pet pros suggest a crate that is at least 2-4 inches taller than the dog’s height at the withers to ensure they aren't cramped.
Actionable steps for the savvy dog owner
Don't just take my word for it. Go check your dog right now.
- Locate the ridge. Put your dog in a "stand" stay and feel the area between the shoulder blades. Get used to how it feels when they are healthy so you can notice changes later.
- Take a "True Height" measurement. Use a carpenter’s level or a straight stick across the withers and measure from the stick to the floor. Don't use a soft tape measure following the curves of the body—that’s how you get inflated numbers.
- Check your harness fit. Slip two fingers under the straps near the withers. If it’s too tight, you’re restricting their shoulder movement. If it’s too loose, the harness will slide around and cause chafing.
- Watch the gait. Next time your dog is trotting in the park, watch that point. It should stay relatively stable while the legs and neck move around it.
Understanding the withers isn't just for vets. It’s for anyone who wants a comfortable, well-fitted, and healthy dog. It’s the literal bridge between the power of the back legs and the direction of the front, and once you know where it is, you'll see your dog’s movement in a completely different way.