You’ve seen them. Those big, blue or grey circles sitting in backyards, sometimes looking a bit lonely until the sun hits just right. Buying an above ground pool feels like a win for the summer, but honestly, the pool itself is only half the story. The real hero—or the real headache, depending on who you ask—is the cover. Dealing with above ground pools with covers isn't just about keeping leaves out of the water; it’s about chemistry, thermodynamics, and making sure you aren't lighting money on fire every time the temperature drops at night.
People forget that water evaporates. Fast.
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If you leave a standard 24-foot round pool uncovered during a breezy, low-humidity week in July, you might lose an inch of water. That doesn't sound like much until you realize that's hundreds of gallons of chemically treated, balanced water literally vanishing into thin air. Then you have to refill it. Then you have to re-balance the pH. It’s a cycle that wears you down.
The Reality of Above Ground Pools with Covers
Let’s talk about the "why" before the "how." Most folks buy a cover because they hate skimming. I get it. Skimming is tedious. But the technical reason you need a cover involves something called heat retention. Water is a massive heat sink. During the day, the sun beats down and warms that top layer. Without a cover, as soon as the sun dips, all that energy radiates back into the atmosphere. It’s basic physics.
A heavy-duty solar cover acts like a thermal blanket. It traps the heat. We aren't talking about a couple of degrees, either. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, a pool cover can reduce the amount of make-up water needed by 30% to 50%. It also reduces chemical consumption by 35% to 60%. That’s real money. If you’re spending $100 a month on chlorine and shock, a cover literally pays for itself in one season.
There are different types of covers, and picking the wrong one is a classic rookie mistake. You have your standard winter covers, which are basically heavy tarps. They're held down by winches and cables. Then you have solar covers, which look like giant sheets of heavy-duty bubble wrap. Don't let the "bubble wrap" look fool you—these are UV-stabilized polymers designed to withstand constant sun exposure without disintegrating into a million tiny plastic pieces in your filter.
Solar Covers: The Bubble Wrap Secret
Solar covers are weird. You put them on "bubbles down." Why? Because those little air pockets create an insulating layer of air between the water and the atmosphere. They also help conduct the sun's thermal energy directly into the water.
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I’ve seen people complain that their solar cover didn't work, only to find out they were using a thin, clear one in a high-wind area. If you live somewhere like Kansas or West Texas, a thin cover will just blow away or tear. You need a 12-mil or 16-mil thickness. "Mil" isn't millimeters, by the way—it’s a thousandth of an inch. A 16-mil cover is significantly heavier and stays put much better than the cheap 8-mil versions that come in the "starter kits" at big-box stores.
But here is the catch: solar covers are a pain to move. If you have a 27-foot pool, trying to fold a wet, heavy solar cover by yourself is a recipe for a pulled back or a very bad mood. This is where a reel system becomes mandatory. It’s a metal pole with a crank. You turn the handle, the cover rolls up, and you swing it out of the way. Without a reel, you’ll stop using the cover within two weeks. I guarantee it.
Winter Covers vs. Safety Covers
Winterizing is a different beast entirely. When the season ends, you aren't trying to keep the water warm; you're trying to keep the pool from becoming a swamp.
A standard above ground pool winter cover is designed to be oversized. If you have a 21-foot pool, the cover is usually 25 feet. This extra material allows the cover to dip down and rest on the surface of the water as the water level is lowered for the winter. You secure it with a cable and a winch that tightens around the perimeter of the pool wall.
One major danger? Weight.
If you get two feet of snow or a massive rainstorm, that weight sits on the cover. If your water level isn't high enough to support it from underneath, the tension can actually pull your pool walls inward. It’s a nightmare. I’ve seen sturdy steel-walled pools buckle because the owner didn't pump the rainwater off the top of the cover. You need a small submersible pump. It’s not optional. You leave it on the cover, and it kicks on automatically when it senses water.
Then there are safety covers. These are rarer for above ground pools because they require a deck. If you have a "deck-to-fence" setup where the pool is flush with a wooden or composite deck, you can use a mesh safety cover. These are anchored into the deck with brass "pop-up" anchors. They can hold the weight of a person or a pet. They are the gold standard for peace of mind, but they are expensive. A good safety cover for a large above ground pool can cost as much as the pool itself.
Maintenance and the "Green Pool" Trap
Here is something nobody tells you: leaving a cover on for too long can actually hurt your pool. If you leave a solar cover on during a 100-degree week without running your pump or checking your chemicals, you are essentially creating a giant petri dish. Algae loves warm, stagnant water.
You have to let the pool "breathe."
Ideally, you take the cover off for at least a few hours every day. This allows for "off-gassing." When you shock your pool, the chlorine reacts with contaminants to create chloramines. Those need to escape into the air. If you keep the cover on, those gases get trapped, and they can actually degrade the underside of your cover and cause your liner to fade prematurely.
Also, watch your pH. Rainwater is usually acidic. If you have a winter cover with a bunch of puddles on it, and those puddles leak into the pool through a small tear, your pH will plummet. Low pH (acidic water) eats away at the copper heat exchangers in pool heaters and makes the water sting your eyes.
Real-World Longevity
How long do these things last?
- Solar Covers: 2 to 3 years. The sun is brutal. Eventually, the bubbles start to flake off. When you see blue plastic bits in your hair after a swim, it's time to go to the store.
- Winter Covers: 1 to 5 years. The cheap ones are basically disposable. The high-end ones with "scrim" (the weave density) of 12x12 or higher can last a long time if you keep the sharp edges of your pool top-rails covered.
- Solid Safety Covers: 10+ years. These are the heavy hitters.
The Hidden Cost of "No Cover"
Think about the chemicals. Chlorine is getting more expensive every year due to supply chain shifts and manufacturing hiccups at major plants like the Bio-Lab facility in Louisiana. When your pool is uncovered, UV rays from the sun break down "free" chlorine. It’s a process called photolysis. Even if your pool is perfectly clean, the sun will eat your chlorine.
By using above ground pools with covers, you’re basically putting a shield between your expensive chemicals and the sun’s rays. It’s like wearing sunscreen but for your wallet.
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Making the Right Choice: A Practical List
If you're currently staring at a giant pool of water and wondering what to buy, here is how I'd break it down:
- Prioritize the Reel: If you are buying a solar cover, buy the reel at the same time. If you don't, you won't use the cover.
- Thickness Matters: For solar covers, don't go below 12-mil. Anything thinner is just a glorified tarp that will tear the first time a dog jumps near it.
- Winter Air Pillows: If you live in a climate that freezes, you need an air pillow under your winter cover. This is a giant inflatable balloon that sits in the middle of the water. When the water freezes into ice, it expands. Without a pillow, it expands outward and ruins your pool walls. The pillow forces the ice to expand inward, saving your structure.
- Color Choice: Clear solar covers actually heat the water deeper by letting more light through. Opaque blue or silver covers are better at retaining heat overnight but don't heat the water as fast during the day. If your pool is in the shade, go clear. If it's in the sun all day, go blue.
- The "Leaf Net" Trick: If you have a lot of trees, buy a leaf net. It's a very thin, lightweight mesh that goes over your winter cover. Once the leaves finish falling in autumn, you just peel the net off, and your heavy winter cover is perfectly clean. It saves you hours of disgusting scooping in the spring.
Moving Forward With Your Pool
Managing a pool doesn't have to be a full-time job. It’s mostly about consistency.
Start by measuring your pool across the center to get the exact diameter. Don't guess. A 24-foot cover will not fit a 21-foot pool correctly; it will bunch up and become a wind sail. Once you have the measurements, decide if your primary goal is heating (solar) or protection (winter/safety).
If you're looking for immediate results, go get a mid-grade 12-mil solar cover. You’ll notice the temperature difference within 48 hours. Just remember to pull it off when the water hits 88 degrees, or you'll be swimming in a bathtub that's breeding algae faster than you can pour in the chlorine.
Keep an eye on the water level during the winter. Check your winch and cable once a month to make sure the wind hasn't loosened the grip. These small check-ins are the difference between a pool that lasts 20 years and one that ends up on the curb after three.
Practical Next Steps
Check your local pool supply store for "scrim" ratings on winter covers—the higher the number, the stronger the weave. Invest in a dedicated cover pump before the first autumn rain hits so you aren't stuck using a bucket to bail out the top of your pool. Finally, if you're installing a solar cover, trim it with sharp scissors so it sits flush inside the pool walls rather than draping over the sides; this prevents the wind from getting underneath it and lifting the whole thing like a kite.