You can smell it before you see it. That sharp, chemical tang of aerosol—specifically Aqua Net in the purple can—hanging in the air like a localized weather system. For about a decade, gravity was less of a law and more of a suggestion. Big hair from the 80s wasn’t just a trend; it was a structural commitment that required round brushes, high-wattage blow dryers, and a level of patience most of us haven't felt since the invention of the smartphone.
It’s easy to look back at old polaroids and cringe. We see the crunchy bangs and the frizzed-out perms and wonder what the hell everyone was thinking. But here's the thing. It wasn't just about being "extra." This was an era of power dressing, shoulder pads the size of dinner plates, and a booming economy that demanded a silhouette that took up space. If your outfit was loud, your hair had to shout.
The Chemistry of the Crunch
To understand the sheer scale of the volume, you have to talk about the perm. Short for "permanent wave," this wasn't your grandma’s gentle curl. In the 80s, perms were about breaking and rebuilding the actual protein bonds of the hair. Stylists used ammonium thioglycolate to swell the hair cuticle and shift the disulfide bonds. Once the hair was wrapped around a rod, a neutralizer (usually hydrogen peroxide) set the hair into its new, zig-zagged shape.
It smelled like rotten eggs. Seriously.
But the perm was just the foundation. To get that iconic height, people turned to "backcombing," also known as teasing. You take a fine-tooth comb, grab a section of hair, and brush it toward the scalp. It creates a literal mat of tangled fibers at the base. It’s devastating for the cuticle, but it provides the "scaffolding" needed to support three inches of vertical lift.
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It Wasn't Just the Girls
Heavy metal changed everything. When you look at bands like Mötley Crüe, Poison, or Bon Jovi, you aren't looking at "feminized" styles. You're looking at a hyper-masculine rebellion. These guys were using more product than their girlfriends. Sebastian Bach of Skid Row famously had hair that seemed to defy the physics of a stage dive.
For the "Hair Metal" scene, the volume was a middle finger to the polished, short-haired disco era that preceded it. It was about excess. It was about being seen from the back row of a stadium.
The Tools of the Trade
- Aqua Net: This was the gold standard. It didn't just hold hair; it petrified it. By the late 80s, the CFCs (chlorofluorocarbons) in aerosol cans were actually linked to the hole in the ozone layer. We were literally sacrificing the planet for better bangs.
- The Diffuser: If you had curly hair, the diffuser attachment on your Conair dryer was a godsend. It dispersed the airflow so you didn't blow out the curl pattern, allowing for "scrunching" which added that messy, voluminous texture.
- Mousse: L’Oréal’s "Free Hold" mousse hit the U.S. market in the early 80s and changed the game. It gave volume without the rock-hard stiffness of gel. It felt high-tech at the time.
Why the Height Eventually Collapsed
By 1990, the vibe shifted. Hard. You can actually pinpoint the moment big hair from the 80s died. It was the release of Nirvana's Nevermind in 1991. Suddenly, looking like you spent three hours in front of a mirror was "uncool." The "grunge" look demanded flat, greasy, unwashed hair. The transition was violent for the salon industry.
There's also the health aspect. A decade of perming and teasing left a generation with massive hair breakage. If you look at photos of celebrities from the early 90s, you’ll notice a lot of "the chop." Everyone was cutting their hair into bobs and pixies just to get rid of the fried ends.
The Modern Resurgence (Sort Of)
We’re seeing a comeback now, but it’s smarter. We call it "blowout culture" or "90s supermodel hair." It’s the spiritual successor to the 80s volume, but without the chemical warfare. Today, we use texturizing sprays and dry shampoo instead of lacquer-based sprays.
We’ve traded the "crunch" for "movement."
But honestly? There’s something respect-worthy about the dedication of a 1986 prom queen. She knew that if a gust of wind hit her, her hair wasn't going to move. It was a helmet. It was armor. It was an era where more was more, and "subtle" was a four-letter word.
How to Get the Look Today (Without the Damage)
If you’re looking to channel that 80s energy for a party or just because you’re bored with flat hair, don't reach for the perm chemicals.
- Start with a volumizing prep. Use a root-lift spray on damp hair. Focus entirely on the first inch of hair coming out of your scalp.
- Blow dry upside down. It sounds simple because it is. Let gravity pull the roots away from the skull while the heat sets them.
- The "Modern Tease." Use a natural bristle brush instead of a plastic comb. It’s gentler. Lightly back-brush the crown area, then smooth the top layer over it to hide the "nest."
- Finish with a flexible hold spray. You want to be able to run your fingers through it. If it feels like a Lego hairpiece, you've gone too far.
The legacy of the 1980s isn't just about bad fashion choices. It was a decade of technical experimentation with hair care that paved the way for the professional products we use today. We learned what happens when you push hair to its absolute limit. And while we might not be bringing back the "mall bang" anytime soon, the desire for hair that commands a room isn't going anywhere.
To keep your hair healthy while chasing volume, prioritize bond-building treatments like Olaplex or K18. These work at the molecular level to repair the damage that heat styling and backcombing inevitably cause. Always use a heat protectant—modern dryers reach temperatures that can literally melt the hair's outer layer if it's unprotected. If you're going for height, do it with the help of science, not just a prayer and a can of hairspray.