You’re walking down St James’s Street. It’s heavy with history. You’ve got the centuries-old wine merchants like Berry Bros. & Rudd on one side and the stiff-collared private clubs on the other. It feels posh. Maybe a bit too posh? But then there’s Cafe Murano St James Street. It’s the kind of place that managed to take the intimidating, high-end DNA of Angela Hartnett’s Michelin-starred Murano in Mayfair and somehow make it feel like your favorite neighborhood local. Except, you know, with better pasta than most people make in a lifetime.
It's been around since 2013. In London restaurant years, that’s practically ancient. Most "it" spots flare up and die in eighteen months. This place just keeps humming.
Why?
Honestly, it’s the lack of pretension. You’d think a restaurant on one of the most expensive streets in the world, owned by one of the most famous chefs in Britain, would be a bit... much. It isn’t. The floors are dark wood. The banquettes are leather. The lighting makes everyone look like they’ve just returned from a relaxing weekend in Tuscany. It’s sophisticated, sure, but you can actually breathe here.
The Angela Hartnett Factor and the Reality of Northern Italian Soul
Angela Hartnett is a legend for a reason. She learned the ropes under Gordon Ramsay, but her cooking at Cafe Murano St James Street doesn't have that aggressive, shouty, "look-at-my-tweezers" energy. It’s focused on the North of Italy. We’re talking about the food she grew up with, influenced by her Italian grandmother.
There’s a specific kind of rigor in the kitchen.
Take the Anolini in brodo. It’s a simple dish. Little pasta parcels in a clear, golden broth. If the broth is off by a fraction, the dish is ruined. If the pasta dough is a millimeter too thick, it’s clunky. At Cafe Murano, it’s usually perfect. It’s the kind of food that looks easy but is actually incredibly difficult to execute consistently for over a decade.
People often confuse "simple" with "easy." That’s a mistake.
The menu doesn't try to reinvent the wheel. You’ll find Arancini. You’ll find Vitello tonnato. You’ll find a Chicken Milanese that is roughly the size of a small hubcap. It’s comforting. But because the sourcing is so tight—think HG Walter meats and seasonal vegetables that actually taste like the earth—the flavors are dialed up to eleven.
What to Order if You’re Only There Once
If you’re sitting at the marble-topped bar—which, by the way, is the best seat in the house—start with the truffled arancini. They are crisp, earthy, and dangerous. You could eat ten. Don't. You need space for the pasta.
💡 You might also like: Wait, What Is the Last Vowel in the Alphabet? It's More Complicated Than You Think
The Rigatoni with sausage ragu is a staple. It’s spicy, fatty, and deeply satisfying. But keep an eye on the daily specials. That’s where the kitchen usually lets loose with whatever came in from the market that morning. Maybe some monkfish with capers and lemon, or a delicate risotto that hasn't been stirred into glue.
And the wine?
The list is 100% Italian. It can be intimidating if you don't know your Gavi from your Garganega. Just talk to the staff. They actually know the bottles. They won't upsell you on something overpriced just because you’re in St James’s. They’ll find you something weird and volcanic from Sicily that pairs perfectly with your pasta.
The Architecture of a St James’s Power Lunch
Business happens here.
If you look around at 1:00 PM on a Tuesday, you’ll see the "St James’s crowd." Art dealers from Christie’s. Hedge fund guys. Maybe a few people who look like they belong in a John le Carré novel. But you’ll also see tourists who stumbled in and families celebrating a birthday.
It’s a rare "bridge" restaurant.
It bridges the gap between the stuffy old-school London and the modern, vibrant food scene. The acoustics are surprisingly good, too. You can have a conversation without shouting, which is a miracle in a room with so many hard surfaces.
The Hidden Gem: The Pastificio
Right next door is the Pastificio. It’s their deli and wine shop. If you can’t get a table—and lunch is often packed—you can go in there.
They sell the same fresh pasta they serve in the restaurant. You can buy a bag of hand-rolled fettuccine, a jar of their sauce, and a bottle of wine, and basically recreate the experience at home for a third of the price. They also do great sandwiches. It’s one of the best-kept secrets for a quick lunch in the area.
Misconceptions About Dining on St James’s Street
A lot of people avoid this neighborhood because they think it’s exclusively for people with double-barrelled surnames and vintage Aston Martins.
That’s not really true anymore.
While the area is undeniably wealthy, Cafe Murano St James Street feels democratic. They have a set lunch menu that is genuinely good value. In a city where a mediocre burger can now cost £25, getting two or three courses of high-quality Italian food in a beautiful room for a fixed price feels like a steal.
Is it cheap? No. But is it "worth it"? Absolutely.
The service is "European" in the best way. It’s efficient but not rushed. They aren’t hovering over you trying to flip the table in 60 minutes. They want you to linger. Have another espresso. Maybe a glass of Limoncello.
The Logistics You Actually Need to Know
Planning a visit isn't rocket science, but a few tips help.
- Book Ahead: Especially for lunch. The 12:30 PM to 2:00 PM slot is prime time. Dinner is a bit more relaxed but still fills up.
- The Bar is King: If you're solo or a duo, ask for the bar. You get a view of the action and it feels more "authentic" to the cafe vibe.
- Dress Code: There isn't a formal one, but it’s St James’s. You don't need a tie, but maybe leave the gym shorts at home. Smart-casual is the sweet spot.
- The Location: It’s a five-minute walk from Green Park station. If you’re coming from Piccadilly Circus, it’s about ten.
Why This Place Works When Others Fail
Consistency is boring to write about, but it’s the hardest thing to achieve in the restaurant world. Angela Hartnett and her executive chef, Sam Williams, have maintained a level of quality that is rare.
They don't chase trends. You won't find "foam" or "deconstructed" anything here. It’s just great ingredients handled with respect. In an era where everything is designed for Instagram, Cafe Murano feels like it’s designed for... eating. What a concept.
The interior design by Russell Sage Studio helps. It’s classic. Brass, dark wood, mirrors. It doesn't look "dated" because it was never trying to be "trendy" in the first place.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
To get the most out of your experience at Cafe Murano St James Street, follow these specific steps:
- Go for the Set Menu: If you're on a budget or a time crunch, the set lunch/pre-theatre menu is the smartest play. It’s usually two or three courses and features seasonal hits.
- Sample the Cicchetti: Don't skip the small bites. The focaccia is salty, oily, and perfect. The truffle arancini are non-negotiable.
- Talk to the Sommelier: Mention what you usually like (e.g., "I like bold reds" or "I prefer crisp whites") and let them steer you toward an Italian regional specialty you've never heard of.
- Visit the Pastificio Afterward: Grab a box of their fresh pasta and a jar of the house pesto. It makes for an incredible "lazy" dinner the following night.
- Check the Seasonal Risotto: If there is a risotto on the menu, order it. It’s one of the best litmus tests for an Italian kitchen, and they always nail the texture—creamy but with a distinct bite to the grain.
The restaurant captures a specific slice of London life. It’s sophisticated but soulful. It’s expensive but offers value. Most importantly, it’s a place where the food actually tastes like the place it’s supposed to come from. Whether you're a local or just passing through, it remains a benchmark for what a modern European brassiere should be.