You’re digging through a box at a garage sale or maybe pulling up floorboards in an old farmhouse, and there it is. A rusted, dusty, or maybe surprisingly pristine vintage Pabst Blue Ribbon can. Most people just see old trash. Collectors? They see a timeline of American industrial design, marketing pivots, and the literal evolution of how we consume beverages.
Pabst isn’t just a beer; it’s a survivor.
It’s been around since 1844, but the cans didn't show up until 1935. Think about that for a second. For nearly a century, if you wanted a PBR, you were dealing with heavy glass or wooden kegs. When the "Export" can finally hit the shelves, it changed everything. It wasn't just about the beer anymore. It was about portability, the cooling rate of tin-plated steel, and that iconic blue ribbon logo that—contrary to popular belief—wasn't always just a printed graphic.
The "Cooler" History of the First Vintage Pabst Blue Ribbon Can
The very first vintage Pabst Blue Ribbon can wasn't the "pull-top" you’re used to throwing in a cooler today. Not even close. In 1935, Pabst launched the "Krueger’s" style flat-top. You needed a church key to get into it. You’d punch two triangular holes in the top—one to drink from and one to let the air in so the beer didn't glug-glug-glug all over your shirt.
These early cans are heavy. Like, surprisingly heavy. They were made of heavy-gauge steel because the industry was still terrified the carbonation would make the cans explode during shipping.
Why the "Blue Ribbon" Name Actually Matters
Wait, did they actually win a ribbon? Sort of. In the late 1800s, Pabst was winning awards at various fairs, most notably the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago. To celebrate, they started tying actual silk blue ribbons around the necks of their bottles. By the time cans rolled around in the 1930s, the silk was gone—it was too expensive and impractical—but the image of the ribbon remained.
If you find a can where the ribbon looks "off" or the font is slightly more gothic, you’re likely looking at a pre-WWII or immediate post-war specimen. These are the grails.
Spotting the Differences: Flat Tops, Cone Tops, and Zip Tops
If you're trying to figure out what you've actually found, look at the shape first.
The Cone Top
Between 1935 and the mid-1950s, Pabst (and many other breweries) experimented with the cone top can. It looks like a hybrid between a can and a bottle, tapering at the top to a standard crown cap. Why? Because smaller breweries didn't want to buy expensive new canning machinery. They wanted something that would run on their existing bottling lines. PBR cone tops are notoriously hard to find in good condition because the high-profile shape made them prone to denting and rusting in damp basements.
The Flat Top
This is the classic. From 1935 until the early 1960s, the flat top reigned supreme. If your vintage Pabst Blue Ribbon can requires a can opener and has a "Internal Revenue Tax Paid" (IRTP) stamp, you’ve hit a small jackpot. That stamp was required by law until 1954. If you see it, you know for a fact that can was produced between the end of Prohibition and the mid-50s.
The Tab Revolution
Then came the 60s. The "Pop Top" or "Zip Top."
Honestly, these were a disaster for the environment. People would pull the ring off and just chuck it on the ground or, worse, drop it inside the can and accidentally swallow it. If you find a PBR can with a jagged, pull-away ring, you’re looking at the era of the 1960s and 70s. These are common, but the graphics started getting really bold and "modern" during this time, which makes them great display pieces.
What Actually Determines the Value?
Condition is everything, but rarity is the kicker. A "common" 1970s PBR can might be worth three bucks to a guy who wants to put it on a shelf in his man cave. But a 1930s PBR "Instructional" can—which literally had pictures on the side showing people how to use a can opener because they were so new—can fetch hundreds, sometimes thousands of dollars at auction.
Look for these specific "Value Boosters":
- The IRTP Statement: As mentioned, that tax-paid stamp is a massive age indicator.
- The Opening Type: Is it a "Punch Top" or a "Side-Seam"? Older cans have a very visible heavy solder seam down the side.
- Metallic Variations: Some 1950s cans used a specific metallic "silver" ink that oxidizes in a very particular way. If it’s still shiny, it’s rare.
- The "Keglined" Trademark: This was the patent name used by the American Can Company. Seeing that logo on a PBR can is a hallmark of the early era.
Don't ignore the rust, but don't let it scare you off either. Some collectors prefer a bit of "character." It proves the can wasn't a reproduction.
The Mystery of the "TapaCan"
One of the coolest sub-niches of the vintage Pabst Blue Ribbon can world is the "TapaCan." This was the specific marketing name Pabst used when they first launched their flat tops. They were trying to convince a skeptical public that beer in a tin can wouldn't taste like metal.
They lined the inside with a special lacquer (often called "Vinylite") to keep the beer from touching the steel. If you find a can that explicitly says "TapaCan" on it, you’re looking at the absolute infancy of the canning industry. It’s a piece of tech history as much as it is beer history.
Collecting Tips for the Modern Hunter
If you're starting a collection, don't just buy everything you see on eBay.
First, learn the difference between a "dumped" can and a "shelf" can. A dumped can was literally found in an old trash heap. It’s going to have pinholes, heavy rust, and maybe some fading. A shelf can has lived its whole life indoors.
Second, check the bottom. Is it bottom-opened? Serious collectors in the 70s and 80s used to drain the beer from two small holes in the bottom so the top remained pristine. These are actually more desirable to some because the "face" of the can looks unopened.
Cleaning Your Find
Basically, be careful. If you find an old PBR can, your instinct is to scrub it. Stop. If it’s a high-value flat top, you can literally scrub the paint right off. Use lukewarm water and a very mild soap. If there’s heavy rust, some collectors use an oxalic acid bath (often found in products like Barkeepers Friend), but you have to be incredibly precise with the timing or you’ll ruin the can't's "display" side forever.
Why We Still Care About a Metal Cylinder
It’s about more than just the logo. The vintage Pabst Blue Ribbon can represents a shift in American life. It represents the move toward the "six-pack" culture of the 1940s and 50s, where beer moved from the local tavern into the domestic refrigerator.
Every change in the can—from the thickness of the steel to the transition to aluminum in the late 60s—reflects what was happening in American factories. During WWII, Pabst had to change their canning process significantly because tin was being rationed for the war effort. Some cans from that era have different finishes or less vibrant colors because of those shortages.
You aren't just holding a can. You're holding a physical record of the Great Depression, the post-war boom, and the rise of the American suburbs.
Actionable Steps for Identifying Your Can
If you have a can in your hand right now and want to know what it is, follow this checklist.
- Check the top. If it’s a cone with a bottle cap, it’s likely 1935-1950. If it’s a flat top that requires an opener, it’s 1935-1962.
- Look for the "Internal Revenue Tax Paid" text. This is usually found in a small circle or line near the top or bottom rim. If it’s there, your can is pre-1954.
- Inspect the seam. Is it a thick, silver-colored solder line? That’s an older 3-piece steel can. Is the can smooth all the way around? That’s a modern 2-piece aluminum can (post-1965).
- Read the small print. Look for the city of manufacture. Pabst had huge plants in Milwaukee, but also Newark, Los Angeles, and Peoria. The Newark cans are often prized by East Coast collectors.
- Verify the "Blue Ribbon" design. Earlier cans have more intricate, detailed "ribbon" graphics with fine lines. By the 70s, the logo became more "blocked" and simplified for faster, cheaper printing.
Once you've identified the era, head over to the Beer Can Collectors of America (BCCA) website. They have extensive databases where you can match your specific can't's "grade" to current market values. Remember, a Grade 1 (near perfect) can might be worth $100, while a Grade 5 (heavy rust/holes) of the same can might be worth fifty cents.
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Store your cans in a climate-controlled area. Humidity is the enemy of steel. If you’re displaying them, keep them out of direct sunlight to prevent the red and blue inks from fading into a sad, ghostly gray.