You’re walking through the Royal Naval Dockyard, the sun is beating down on those white limestone roofs, and suddenly, you see it. It’s huge. It looks like a fortress because, well, it basically was one. The Frog and Onion Pub isn't just a place to grab a pint; it's the literal heart of the West End of Bermuda. If you’ve spent more than twenty minutes on the island, someone has probably already told you to go there.
It's loud. It’s cavernous. It smells like malt and salt air.
Most people expect a tourist trap when they see a pub located in a historic cooperage built in 1892. You see the massive stone walls and the high ceilings and you think, "Okay, this is going to be overpriced and mediocre." But then you sit down. You realize the "Frog" is the Frenchman (the chef who co-founded it) and the "Onion" is the Bermudian. It’s a self-aware nod to the island's history. Bermudians have been called "onions" for centuries because the island used to export them by the boatload to the US.
The Reality of Dining Inside an 18th-Century Cooperage
Let’s talk about the building first because you can't ignore it. The Frog and Onion Pub is housed in the mid-19th century Cooperage. Back in the day, this is where they made the barrels to store water, salt meat, and rum for the British Royal Navy. You can still feel that weight. The stone walls are thick enough to withstand a category five hurricane, and they probably have.
There’s something about eating a burger in a room where men were once sweating over cedar barrels that makes the food taste... sturdier? I don't know. It’s just vibe-heavy.
The layout is sprawling. You’ve got the main bar area, which is usually packed with locals and cruise ship passengers from the Kings Wharf dock. Then there are the smaller nooks. If you’re lucky, you’ll snag a spot near the giant fireplace. It’s one of those places where the floorboards creak in a way that feels authentic rather than broken. Honestly, it’s one of the few spots in Bermuda where you don't feel like you have to be wearing a linen suit to fit in.
What’s Actually Worth Ordering?
People go for the beer. That’s the big draw. The Frog and Onion Pub is home to the Dockyard Brewing Co., which is Bermuda’s only microbrewery. They do about five or six staples. The St. David’s Light is what you want if you’ve been walking in the humidity all day. It’s crisp. It’s cold. It doesn't try too hard. On the flip side, the Blackbeard’s Floral Ale is... an experience. It’s polarizing. Some people love the botanical hits; others think it tastes like drinking a garden.
But you’re here for the food too.
- The Fish and Chips: They use fresh local snapper or wahoo when they can get it. It’s beer-battered using their own ale. It’s heavy. It’s greasy in the right way.
- The Bermuda Onion Soup: You have to. It’s the law. It’s loaded with Swiss cheese and served in a way that makes you regret wearing a white shirt.
- Cornish Pasties: A nod to the British roots. They’re flaky and dense.
Don't expect "fine dining." This is pub grub. If you go in expecting a Michelin star, you're missing the point. You’re here for the atmosphere and the fact that the portions are big enough to feed a small family of four. Or one very hungry sailor.
The Local Perspective vs. The Tourist Rush
Bermudians actually go here. That’s the secret. Usually, places right next to the cruise ship terminals are avoided like the plague by locals. But the Frog and Onion Pub manages to keep a "regular" crowd, especially during the off-season.
Why? Because it’s consistent.
In a place like Bermuda where restaurants open and close every season, the Frog has been a constant since 1992. It’s the place you go for a Saturday lunch when you’re out on the boat and dock at the pharmacy nearby. It’s where people watch the football (the real kind, soccer) on the big screens.
There is a weird tension sometimes when two massive ships are in port. The place gets swamped. If you see two ships at the dock, maybe wait until 3:00 PM to go. Or go for dinner after the "all aboard" call when the crowds thin out and the pub returns to its natural, slightly sleepy state.
Why the Beer Matters More Than You Think
Microbrewing in the middle of the Atlantic is a logistical nightmare. Every grain, every bit of hops, it all has to be shipped in. The Dockyard Brewing Co. takes up a significant chunk of the back of the building. You can see the copper vats.
The Whale of a Wheat is surprisingly good for a summer afternoon. It’s unfiltered and has that citrusy punch that cuts through the heat. Most people don't realize that Bermuda’s water is all rainwater—collected on roofs and stored in underground tanks. While the brewery treats their water to get the mineral balance right, there’s a local soul to the brew that you won’t find in a Heineken.
Things Most People Miss
Look up. Seriously. The rafters are incredible. The sheer engineering of the Cooperage is a marvel of the Victorian era.
Also, check out the games area. There’s a pool table and some dartboards in the back. It’s usually where the crew members from the ships hang out. If you want the real gossip on what’s happening in the Atlantic, buy a beer for a guy in a crew uniform back there.
There’s also a small gift shop area, but honestly, just buy a t-shirt and move on. The real souvenir is the pint glass you’ll inevitably want to steal (don't, they sell them).
Navigating the Menu Hazards
Bermuda is expensive. Let’s just be real about that. A burger and a couple of beers at the Frog and Onion Pub will set you back more than you’d spend in a pub in London or New York. It’s the "Island Tax." Everything is imported.
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The service can be "island time." If you’re in a rush to catch a ferry, tell them immediately. The staff are friendly, but they aren't going to sprint. It’s 85 degrees and humid; nobody is sprinting. Embrace it. Lean into the slow pace. Order another Trunk Island Pale Ale and watch the world go by.
Logistics and Getting There
If you’re staying in Hamilton or the East End, you’re taking the ferry. The sea express (blue route) is the best way to get to the Dockyard. It’s a 20-minute ride with the best views of the Great Sound. Once you hop off the ferry, you just walk past the Clocktower Mall and you’ll see the signs.
If you’re on a cruise, you’re already there. It’s a five-minute walk from the gangway.
- Check the cruise ship schedule before you go.
- If three ships are in, grab a reservation if they’re taking them, or be prepared to wait at the bar.
- Bring a light sweater. The AC inside is legendary and can be a shock after the Bermuda heat.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit
- Go for the Sampler: If you can't decide on a beer, they offer a flight. It’s the best way to try the Dockyard Brewing range without falling off your chair.
- Try the Rockfish: If the "Catch of the Day" is Rockfish, get it. It’s a local staple and the Frog and Onion does a solid pan-fry or blackened version.
- Avoid Peak Lunch: 12:00 PM to 1:30 PM is chaos. Go at 2:30 PM for a much chillier experience.
- Walk the Ramparts After: Once you're done eating, walk around the National Museum of Bermuda right next door. It helps digest the heavy pub food.
The Frog and Onion Pub isn't trying to be a trendy gastropub with foam and microgreens. It’s a place for a cold beer, a massive plate of food, and a break from the sun inside a piece of naval history. It’s reliable, it’s historic, and honestly, it’s exactly what you need after a day on the water. Check the local music schedule too; they often have live bands or a DJ on the patio during the summer months, which completely changes the vibe from "historic pub" to "island party."