You’re driving through West Texas, nothing but scrub brush and oil derricks for miles, and then you see it. A skyscraper. Right there in the middle of nowhere. That’s Hotel Settles, and honestly, it shouldn’t even exist.
Back in 1930, Will and Lillian Settles decided to build a 15-story luxury hotel in Big Spring. They spent over $500,000, which was an insane amount of money during the Great Depression. It opened with a bang, basically becoming the social hub of the Permian Basin. But the story isn't just about a fancy building. It's about a place that died, sat like a ghost for decades, and then somehow clawed its way back to life.
Most people just see a cool old building. They don't see the guts it took to save it.
The Wild History of the Settles Hotel Big Spring
Let's be real: Big Spring isn't exactly Dallas. When the hotel opened, it was the tallest building between El Paso and Fort Worth. It had 150 rooms, a pharmacy, a ballroom that made people gasp, and a lobby that felt like a palace. It was the "Grand Old Lady of West Texas." Elvis stayed there. Lawrence Welk performed there. It was the place to be seen if you were anybody in the oil business.
Then the oil boom faded. The 60s and 70s were brutal. By 1982, the doors were locked. For nearly 30 years, it was just a shell. Pigeons moved in. Vandals broke the windows. People in Big Spring just got used to seeing this massive, decaying tombstone in their skyline. It’s kinda heartbreaking when you think about it—all that history just rotting because the money dried up.
The $30 Million Miracle
G. Brint Ryan is the name you need to know. He’s a Big Spring native who made it big in the tax business. In 2006, he bought the building for $75,000. That’s less than the price of a loaded pickup truck. But he didn't just want a tax write-off; he wanted his childhood landmark back. He spent something like $30 million of his own money to bring it back.
He didn't just slap some paint on it. He went deep. They tracked down the original blueprints and used them to restore the plaster work, the grand staircase, and the lighting fixtures. They even sourced the same type of marble used in the original 1930s lobby. When you walk into Hotel Settles today, you aren't walking into a modern recreation. You are walking into 1930.
What It’s Actually Like to Stay There
Rooms are huge. That's the first thing you notice. In the 30s, hotel rooms were tiny boxes, so during the renovation, they knocked down walls to combine rooms. Now, you get these massive suites with high ceilings and heavy wooden furniture. It feels solid. Not like those "paper-thin wall" chain hotels you find near the airport.
You've got the Settles Grill downstairs. It’s not "fine dining" in the stuffy sense, but it’s high-end West Texas. Think massive steaks, fried green tomatoes, and pecan pie that’ll make you want to move in permanently. The bar, Pharmacy Bar & Parlor, sits where the original drug store was. It’s moody and dark. Perfect for a whiskey after a long drive.
The pool area is surprisingly modern. It’s got a heated pool and a hot tub that overlooks the town. It’s a weird contrast—floating in a luxury pool while looking out at the rugged, dusty landscape of Howard County.
Why the Location Matters
Big Spring is a crossroads. You’re at the intersection of I-20 and Highway 87. Most people are just passing through on their way to Midland or Abilene. But Hotel Settles makes people stop. It’s basically the anchor for the entire downtown revitalization. If this hotel hadn't been saved, Big Spring’s downtown would probably still be a ghost town. Instead, you’ve got shops and small businesses popping up around it.
It’s also right near Comanche Trail Park. If you stay at the hotel, you should definitely drive five minutes over there to see the actual "big spring" that gave the town its name. It’s a massive limestone sinkhole. It’s quiet, a bit rugged, and very Texas.
Common Misconceptions About the Settles
One thing people always ask: Is it haunted?
Honestly, every old hotel in Texas claims to be haunted. It’s a marketing trope at this point. Do people report weird noises? Sure. Is there a "Ghost of Room 702"? Maybe. But the staff doesn't lean into the "haunted hotel" gimmick. They focus on the luxury and the history. If you're looking for a "The Shining" experience, you might be disappointed. It’s too well-lit and comfortable for that.
Another mistake people make is thinking it's just for oil executives. While the oil industry definitely keeps the lights on, the hotel has become a massive wedding destination. People fly in from all over the state just to have their photos taken on that grand staircase. It has this Old Hollywood vibe that you just can't find in a Marriott.
Getting the Most Out of Your Visit
Don't just check in and stay in your room. Explore the mezzanine. There’s a small museum area with photos of the hotel during its "ghost" years. Seeing the "before" photos makes you appreciate the "after" so much more. You can see the piles of pigeon droppings and the shattered glass in the same spots where you're now standing on polished marble.
- Ask for a tour. If it’s not too busy, the staff is usually happy to show off the ballroom or the rooftop views.
- Check the event calendar. They host a lot of live music and community events.
- The Fitness Center. Even if you don't workout, check it out. It's surprisingly well-equipped for a historic boutique hotel.
- The Rooftop. It's one of the highest points for miles. The sunset over the West Texas plains is something you won't forget.
The Business Reality of a Historic Luxury Hotel
It’s not all sunshine and marble. Maintaining a 15-story historic building in a town of 28,000 people is a logistical nightmare. The elevators are old (restored, but old tech). The plumbing in a 1930s structure is always a gamble. But that’s the trade-off. You aren't paying for "perfection," you're paying for character.
The hotel is a member of the Historic Hotels of America, which means it has to meet certain standards to maintain its status. This isn't just a local landmark; it’s a nationally recognized treasure. It’s a miracle it survived the wrecking ball in the 90s when there were serious talks about just blowing it up to clear the lot.
💡 You might also like: Nakhon Ratchasima Province Thailand: What Most People Get Wrong About Korat
Practical Steps for Your Trip
If you're planning to visit Hotel Settles, keep a few things in mind. First, book ahead. Because it’s the only high-end spot in the region, it fills up fast when there's an oil boom or a big wedding.
- Check the wind. This is West Texas. If there's a dust storm, you’ll see it coming from the upper floors. It’s cinematic but messy.
- Dining reservations. The Settles Grill is popular with locals, not just guests. Don't assume you can just walk in at 7 PM on a Friday.
- Explore the surroundings. Visit the Hangar 25 Air Museum while you're in town. It’s a restored WWII hangar and fits the "history" theme of your trip perfectly.
- Drive the scenic route. If you have time, skip I-20 for a bit and take the back roads. The landscape is hauntingly beautiful in a "No Country for Old Men" kind of way.
The hotel represents something bigger than just a place to sleep. It’s a symbol of West Texas resilience. It’s the idea that something broken can be fixed if someone cares enough to spend the time and money. Whether you’re an architecture nerd, a history buff, or just a tired traveler looking for a decent bed, this place hits different. It’s a piece of the past that refused to stay buried.
When you leave, make sure to look back at the skyline from a mile or two down the road. That 15-story tower standing alone against the horizon is a sight you won't see anywhere else in the world. It’s a testament to big dreams in a big state.