In 1998, the NBA was in a weird spot. Michael Jordan was doing his "Last Dance," the lockout was looming like a dark cloud, and the sneaker industry was desperately trying to figure out what "futuristic" actually looked like. Most brands were just making chunky, moon-boot looking things. But then there was Gary Payton.
Gary "The Glove" Payton didn't just have a nickname; he had a defensive philosophy that involved being physically inside your jersey with you. When Nike handed him his first official signature model, the Nike Air Zoom Flight 98, they didn't just make a shoe. They made a literal glove for your foot.
Honestly, it’s one of the few times a marketing gimmick actually turned into a masterclass in industrial design. You’ve probably seen them—the ones with the giant zipper. If you played ball in the late 90s, you either owned these or you were jealous of the kid who did.
The Design That Changed Everything
The Gary Payton shoes 1998 release, officially known as the Air Zoom Flight 98, was a complete departure from the "visible air" obsession of the mid-90s. While everyone else was trying to show off giant bubbles in the heel, Eric Avar—the legendary designer who later became Kobe Bryant’s right-hand man—went the opposite direction. He hid everything.
Basically, the shoe has two lives. When it’s zipped up, it’s this sleek, aerodynamic obsidian pod with a massive white Swoosh stretching across the top. It looked like something a ninja would wear to a track meet. But when you pull that zipper down? That’s where the "Monkey Paw" lives.
What is the Monkey Paw anyway?
It sounds like a cursed artifact from a horror movie, but in 1998, it was the pinnacle of ankle support. Since Payton hated taping his ankles—he felt it slowed him down—Nike engineered these five rigid, finger-like TPU structures on the medial and lateral sides of the heel.
- They sat right against the ankle bone.
- They prevented the foot from rolling during those aggressive lateral cuts GP was known for.
- They gave the shoe a "predator" vibe that matched Payton’s trash-talking persona.
The "Monkey Paw" wasn't just for show. It was a mechanical solution to a physical problem. Most modern sneakers use "internal cages" now, but the Zoom Flight 98 put that cage on the outside (well, under the shroud) and made it look like a piece of alien technology.
The Performance Reality: Was It Actually Good to Play In?
Let’s be real for a second. Playing in the Gary Payton shoes 1998 model was a bit of a polarizing experience. If you had wide feet, the shroud was your worst enemy. It was made of a spandex-like material (Lyrica/neoprene mix) that was supposed to stretch, but if you were sized wrong, that zipper was under so much tension it felt like it might snap and take an eye out.
But for the shifty guards it was built for? Man, it was magic.
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The cushioning was full-length Zoom Air. Unlike the "clunky" Air Max units of the era, Zoom was low-profile and bouncy. You could feel the court. You could move. It felt like an extension of your body, which was exactly what Gary wanted. He famously told Nike he wanted to feel like he was wearing nothing but a sock, but with the support of a tank.
The weight was another factor. For 1998, these were remarkably light. By stripping away the heavy leather overlays and replacing them with a single zippered sheath, Nike cut down the bulk significantly.
The Cultural Impact and the "Fold Down" Look
You didn't just wear these on the court. That was the beauty of them. Because the inner bootie often featured contrasting colors—like the vibrant "University Red" on the OG black/white pair—the move was to unzip the shroud and fold the flaps down.
It changed the silhouette completely. It went from a high-tech performance boot to a casual, layered sneaker that looked great with baggy jeans (remember, it was 1998; the wider the leg, the better).
Why collectors are losing their minds right now
If you've been tracking the secondary market, you know that original 1998 pairs are basically unwearable now. The glue dries out, the midsoles crumble, and the "Monkey Paw" can crack. However, the legacy is so strong that Nike brought them back in 2013, and the rumor mill—along with recent leaks—confirms a massive Fall 2026 return for the OG colorway.
People aren't just buying them for the tech anymore. They’re buying a piece of the "Sonics Era." Gary Payton and Shawn Kemp made Seattle the coolest team in the league for a five-year stretch, and "The Glove" was the uniform for that movement.
Common Misconceptions About the 98s
There’s a lot of noise online about what these shoes were and weren't. Let's clear a few things up:
- They weren't the first zippered shoe: That's a common lie. Nike had experimented with zippers before, but this was the first time it was the primary feature of a signature basketball shoe.
- They aren't "The GP": The Zoom GP (with the ratchet buckle) came out a year later in 1999. People often mix them up because they both have that "lockdown" theme.
- The 2013 Retro wasn't perfect: Purists complained that the Zoom unit in the retro wasn't as "bouncy" as the 1998 original. Nike Sportswear (NSW) handled the retro rather than Nike Basketball, which sometimes leads to small shifts in performance tech.
How to Handle Gary Payton Shoes Today
If you're looking to grab a pair of Gary Payton shoes 1998 (either a 2013 retro or the upcoming 2026 drop), you need a game plan. These aren't like modern knit sneakers that stretch to fit anyone.
Watch the Zipper: It’s the soul of the shoe. If you're buying a used pair from 2013, check the teeth of the zipper. If they're bent, don't buy them. There is no easy way to fix a zipper on a shroud shoe without destroying the aesthetics.
Sizing is Critical: Go up half a size. Seriously. The inner bootie and the outer shroud create a double-layer of compression. If you stay true-to-size, your toes will be screaming by the end of the day.
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Clean with Care: Don't throw these in the wash. The shroud material can lose its elasticity if it gets too hot or soaked in harsh chemicals. A damp microfiber cloth is all you need for that spandex upper.
The Gary Payton shoes 1998 remains a landmark because it didn't play it safe. It was loud, it was weird, and it was unapologetically aggressive—just like the man who wore them. Whether you're a sneakerhead or just someone who misses the golden age of 90s hoops, "The Glove" is a design that simply hasn't been topped for pure, "what-is-that-on-your-feet" energy.
Keep an eye on the SNKRS app as we head toward the 2026 release window. Authenticating a pair of 1998 OGs is getting harder, so unless you're a professional restorer, waiting for the new drop is probably your best bet for a pair you can actually walk in. If you do find a 2013 pair, make sure the carbon fiber shank plate isn't peeling away from the sole—that's a common fail point on the last round of retros.