You’ve seen the photos. Those distinctive Moorish arches, the red-domed towers, and that private beach where the sand seems a little too perfect. It’s the Hotel Excelsior Lido Venice Italy. Most people think they know this place because they’ve seen a celebrity stepping off a mahogany Riva boat during the Venice Film Festival. But honestly? The "Red Palace" is a whole lot weirder and more interesting than just a backdrop for movie stars.
It’s big. Massive, actually.
When it opened back in 1908, it wasn't just another hotel; it was a statement. The architect, Giovanni Sardi, basically decided to mash together Venetian Gothic and Byzantine styles and crank the volume up to eleven. You get these intricate terracotta decorations and grand lounges that feel like they belong in a sultan's palace rather than a skinny island off the coast of Italy. It changed everything for the Lido. Before the Excelsior, the Lido was mostly a quiet strip of land where locals went to get some fresh air. After? It became the playground for the world’s elite.
The Weird History of the World’s First Film Festival
If you’re staying at the Hotel Excelsior Lido Venice Italy, you’re literally walking through the birthplace of the Venice Film Festival. In 1932, the very first festival kicked off right here on the hotel’s terrace. Imagine the scene: it’s August, the air is thick and salty, and the most famous people on the planet are watching movies under the stars.
But here’s what most people get wrong. They think the festival was always this corporate, high-fashion machine. It wasn't. It started as a way to drum up business for the hotel during the off-season. It was basically a giant marketing stunt that accidentally became the most prestigious film event in the world.
The hotel still carries that DNA. During the festival weeks, the lobby is a chaotic mess of publicists, directors, and actors trying to look like they aren't looking for a camera. The rest of the year? It’s strangely peaceful. You can sit in the Blue Bar—which, by the way, has served everyone from Winston Churchill to George Clooney—and actually hear the waves. The cocktails are pricey. They’re also some of the best in Venice. Ask for a signature Bellini or a Negroni, and just watch the way the light hits the Adriatic.
What the Rooms are Actually Like (Beyond the Hype)
Let's talk about the rooms. There are 196 of them, including some pretty insane suites. If you’re expecting ultra-modern, minimalist IKEA vibes, you’re in the wrong place. This is "Grand Dame" territory.
Expect heavy fabrics. Think damask, velvet, and silks. The bathrooms often feature that classic Italian marble that feels colder and more solid than anything you have at home. The "Moorish" theme carries into the rooms too, with pointed arches in the windows and intricate woodwork.
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The View Dilemma
Here’s a tip most travel agents won't tell you: the "Garden View" rooms are nice, but they aren't why you're here. You want the sea view. Waking up and seeing the Adriatic stretch out toward the horizon is a specific kind of magic. It makes the steep price tag feel slightly more justifiable.
- Sea View Rooms: These face the private beach. You get the sunrise.
- Courtyard Rooms: These overlook the internal "Moorish" courtyard. It’s quiet, sure, but you miss the scale of the ocean.
- The Presidential Suite: If you have to ask the price, you definitely can't afford it. It’s where the A-listers hide when they want to avoid the paparazzi in the lobby.
The Beach Cabana Culture
You can't talk about the Hotel Excelsior Lido Venice Italy without mentioning the cabanas. These aren't your typical plastic-chair-and-umbrella setups. They are white-canvassed, semi-permanent structures that line the private beach like a little village.
For decades, Venetian high society has rented these same cabanas for the entire summer. It’s a status symbol. Families pass down their "spot" like an inheritance. If you’re a guest, you can rent one for the day. It’s not cheap—sometimes costing more than a night at a mid-range hotel elsewhere—but it gives you access to a version of beach life that feels stuck in the 1950s.
Waiters in crisp white uniforms bring drinks directly to your deck chair. The sand is groomed every morning. The water? It’s the Adriatic, so it’s shallow and calm, which is great for kids but maybe a bit boring if you’re looking for surf. It's about the scene. It’s about being seen.
Getting There is Half the Point
One of the coolest things about the Excelsior is the private launch service. You don't take a public vaporetto like a tourist. No. You hop on the hotel’s private wood-trimmed boat from St. Mark’s Square.
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The ride takes about 15 to 20 minutes. As you leave the chaos of central Venice behind, the air gets cooler. You see the skyline of the city—the Campanile, the Doge’s Palace—recede into the distance. Then, the massive silhouette of the Excelsior appears on the horizon. It looks like a mirage. It feels like you’re entering a different world, one where the frantic energy of Venice’s "Disney-fied" center doesn't exist.
Food, Drinks, and the "Tourists"
Eating at the hotel is an experience in itself. The Tropicana Restaurant is the big one. It’s grand. It’s formal. It’s the kind of place where you actually want to dress up. The menu usually leans heavily on local seafood—think sea bass in salt crust or squid ink risotto that actually tastes like the sea.
But honestly? Sometimes the most "human" thing to do is grab a snack at the pool bar. It’s a bit more relaxed. You’ll see families with kids covered in gelato and old Italian men reading the Gazzetta dello Sport with a coffee.
One thing people worry about is the crowd. Is it too stuffy? Kinda. Is it too expensive? Definitely. But is it worth it? If you care about history and that specific "Golden Age" of travel, then yes.
The Practical Reality of the Lido
Living the dream at the Hotel Excelsior Lido Venice Italy means you are on the Lido, not in the "main" part of Venice. This is a double-edged sword.
On one hand, you have space. You have cars (the Lido is one of the few places in Venice where you can actually drive). You have a beach. You have a much more relaxed, residential vibe.
On the other hand, if you want to see the Rialto Bridge every morning, you’re going to be spending a lot of time on boats. Most guests at the Excelsior don't care. They’ve seen the sights. They are here to retreat.
Actionable Tips for Your Stay
If you’re planning to book or just visiting for a drink, here is how to do it right without looking like a total amateur.
- Timing is Everything. Avoid the first week of September unless you are actually attending the Film Festival. Prices quadruple and the hotel is restricted. May and June are the sweet spots. The weather is warm enough for the beach, but the humidity hasn't turned the air into a wet blanket yet.
- The Boat Hack. Use the private shuttle even if you aren't staying there (if you have a restaurant reservation). It’s the most stylish free ride in the city. Just make sure you check the schedule at the pier near San Marco.
- Explore the "Other" Lido. Don't just stay inside the hotel walls. Rent a bicycle. The Lido is flat and perfect for riding. Head south toward Malamocco, a tiny ancient village that feels like a miniature Venice without any of the crowds.
- Dress the Part. You don't need a tuxedo, but this isn't the place for gym shorts and flip-flops in the lobby. "Smart casual" is the minimum. A linen shirt will get you a lot further than a souvenir t-shirt.
- Book the Cabana Early. If you’re staying during July or August and you want a front-row cabana, you need to email the concierge weeks in advance. Don't expect to just wander down at 11:00 AM and get a prime spot.
The Hotel Excelsior isn't just a place to sleep. It’s a massive, ornate monument to a time when travel was an event. It has its flaws—the Wi-Fi can be spotty in the thick stone corners, and the service can sometimes feel a bit "old world" (read: slow)—but there is nowhere else like it.
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When the sun starts to set and the lights of Venice flicker on across the lagoon, and you’re sitting on that terrace with a drink in your hand, you’ll get it. It’s not just a hotel; it’s the reason the Lido exists.
To make the most of your visit, always confirm the shuttle boat schedule at the pier located near the Vallaresso vaporetto stop (near Harry's Bar). For dinner reservations at Tropicana, aim for a table about 30 minutes before sunset to catch the light shifting over the water. If you're looking for a quieter experience, the hotel's library offers a stunning, quiet retreat that most guests completely overlook. Finally, check for "off-peak" packages in late September or early October; the weather stays mild, the film crowds are gone, and the rates often drop significantly.