You know that feeling when you step off a ferry in Positano and immediately feel like you’re in a pinball machine? The crowds are intense. The sun is bouncing off the white stone, and suddenly you're dragging a suitcase up a vertical incline while dodging three influencers taking the exact same photo. It’s chaotic. But then, you duck through a pair of unassuming wooden gates near the bottom of the hill, and everything just... stops. The noise vanishes. You’re standing in a courtyard filled with the scent of citrus and ancient jasmine. That’s Hotel Palazzo Murat Positano.
It’s not just a place to sleep. Honestly, it’s one of the few spots left in the village that hasn't traded its soul for a trendy "beach club" vibe. Most people book it because they want that iconic view, but they stay because it’s one of the rare flat pieces of land in a town built on a cliff.
The King Who Actually Lived Here
Let’s get the history out of the way because it’s actually cool, not just some marketing fluff. We aren't talking about a "palazzo" built in the 1990s to look old. This was the 18th-century summer residence of Gioacchino Murat. If that name sounds familiar, it’s because he was the King of Naples and Napoleon Bonaparte’s brother-in-law.
Imagine that for a second.
A guy who literally led cavalry charges for Napoleon decided this specific patch of dirt was where he wanted to chill during the summer. You can still see the Bourbon-era grandeur in the Donna Carmela suite. The floor tiles are hand-painted, the ceilings are cavernous, and the furniture looks like it belongs in a museum because, well, it basically does. Staying here feels a bit like you’ve been invited to a private estate rather than checking into a global hotel chain. It’s personal.
Location is Everything (And I Mean Everything)
If you've ever stayed at the top of Positano, you know the "Staircase Regret." It’s that moment at 11:00 PM when you realize you have to climb 400 steps to get back to your room after a heavy dinner of scialatielli ai polpi.
Hotel Palazzo Murat Positano solves this. It sits in the pedestrian heart of the village. You’re about two minutes from the Spiaggia Grande (the main beach) and the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. Yet, because it’s wrapped in a massive botanical garden, you don't hear the tourists screaming about their lost flip-flops outside.
Most luxury hotels in the area, like Le Sirenuse or Il San Pietro, require a shuttle or a serious hike. Here, you just walk out the gate and you're at the boat docks. It’s the ultimate "cheat code" for the Amalfi Coast.
What the Rooms are Really Like
Don't expect cookie-cutter minimalism. If you want grey carpets and glass desks, go to Milan.
The rooms here are split between the "Palazzo" (the historic wing) and the "Garden" wing. The Palazzo rooms are moody, romantic, and steeped in history. Think antique beds and tall windows. The Garden rooms are brighter, more Mediterranean, and look out over the bougainvillea.
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- The View: Most rooms face the famous dome of the church and the sea.
- The Vibe: Quiet. The walls are thick. You won't hear your neighbor's TV.
- The Little Things: They actually give you high-quality linens. It sounds snobby, but on a 90-degree day in July, it matters.
The Secret Garden and Al Palazzo
The garden is the heart of the whole operation. It’s a 17th-century "L-shaped" garden that grows everything from lemons to giant colorful flowers that I can’t name but look expensive.
This is where you find Al Palazzo, the hotel’s restaurant.
Dining here is a trip. You’re sitting under a canopy of vines, the church dome is glowing orange in the sunset, and the food is legitimately incredible. Chef Vito Raiola focuses on "0 km" ingredients. Basically, if it didn't grow in their garden or come out of the water that morning, they don't want it.
Try the lemon risotto. It sounds simple, maybe even boring? It’s not. It’s the most concentrated hit of Amalfi sunshine you can get on a plate.
Why People Get This Place Wrong
A lot of travelers look at the price tag and compare it to the big-name "Instagram" hotels. They think if they aren't at a place with a famous infinity pool, they're missing out.
That’s a mistake.
The pool at Palazzo Murat is tucked away in the greenery. It’s heated, it’s surrounded by citrus trees, and it’s peaceful. It doesn't feel like a fashion show. You can actually read a book without someone’s tripod hitting you in the head. It’s for grown-ups. Or at least, for people who want to feel like grown-ups for a weekend.
The Logistics: Getting There Without Losing Your Mind
Getting to Hotel Palazzo Murat Positano is the only tricky part, mostly because Positano is a logistical nightmare.
- Don't Drive: Just don't. The traffic is a crawl, and parking is basically a myth. If you do drive, the hotel has a valet service, but you'll spend half your vacation staring at the bumper of a tour bus.
- The Private Transfer: If you have the budget, hire a driver from Naples. It’s about 90 minutes of winding roads. It’s worth every penny.
- The Ferry: This is the pro move. Take the ferry from Salerno or Sorrento. You get the best view of the town as you arrive, and since the hotel is so close to the pier, the porter can grab your bags and you're "home" in five minutes.
Is It Worth the Splurge?
Let's be real. Positano is expensive. You're going to pay a premium wherever you go.
But there’s a difference between paying for a brand and paying for an experience. At Murat, you're paying for the fact that the staff knows your name by day two. You're paying for the ability to walk to the beach in your swimsuit and be back in your room before you even dry off.
It’s about the "Leisurely Life."
While everyone else is sweating in line for a bus, you’re sitting in a king’s garden drinking a spritz made with lemons grown ten feet away. That’s the value.
Real Talk on the Downsides
No place is perfect. Since the hotel is in the center of town, you are near the bells of Santa Maria Assunta. They are beautiful. They are also loud. If you’re a light sleeper who wants to sleep until noon, the 7:00 AM bells might be your enemy. Also, the historic rooms have quirks—an extra step here, a weirdly placed light switch there. It’s part of the charm, but if you want "smart home" perfection, you might be frustrated.
How to Maximize Your Stay
If you’re going to do this, do it right. Book a table at the restaurant for your first night so you don't have to wander the streets looking for a tourist trap. Ask the concierge, Giuseppe, about boat rentals. They can hook you up with a private gozzo (a traditional wooden boat) to take you to the hidden coves like Laurito or Fornillo.
And for the love of God, spend at least one afternoon doing absolutely nothing by the pool.
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Positano exerts a lot of pressure on you to "see and be seen." Resist it. The best part of Hotel Palazzo Murat Positano is the permission it gives you to just exist in a very beautiful, very old place.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
- Book 6-8 Months Out: This place is small (only about 30 rooms). It fills up fast, especially for the summer months.
- Request a Palazzo Room: If you want the high ceilings and the 18th-century vibe, specify you want to be in the historic wing.
- Use the Porter Service: When you arrive by boat, look for the guys in the uniforms at the pier. Give them your bags. Don't try to be a hero; those hills are steeper than they look.
- Email the Concierge Early: If you want a dinner reservation at the "exclusive" spots in town (like Da Adolfo), have the hotel handle it weeks before you arrive. They have the local pull that your OpenTable app doesn't.
- Check the Event Calendar: Sometimes they host "Music on the Rocks" or chamber music in the courtyard. It’s a vibe you shouldn't miss.