You've seen the postcards. Those blindingly bright houses stacked like a pack of Skittles against a backdrop of gray North Atlantic fog. People call it jellybean row st john's newfoundland, and if you’re planning a trip, you probably think you’re looking for a specific GPS coordinate.
Honestly? It doesn't exist.
Well, the houses exist. They're everywhere. But there is no single "Jellybean Row" on the map of St. John's. It's a collective nickname for the entire downtown core, a sprawl of Victorian-style row houses that define the steepest streets in North America. If you put "Jellybean Row" into Google Maps, you might get a gift shop or a specific B&B, but you won't find the "official" street because the whole city is the attraction.
The Myth of the Foggy Fisherman
There’s this charming story everyone tells. You’ve likely heard it: fishermen painted their houses neon colors so they could find their way home through the thick Newfoundland fog.
It’s a total lie.
Most historians and locals, including the folks at the Newfoundland Historical Society, will tell you that back in the day, these houses were mostly drab. We’re talking earth tones. Dark greens, browns, and maybe a deep red if someone was feeling spicy. The "jellybean" phenomenon is actually a relatively modern bit of urban renewal.
It started in the late 1970s and early 80s. St. John's downtown was looking a bit rough, a bit gray, and a bit tired. A group of concerned citizens and the St. John's Heritage Foundation decided to inject some life into the wooden Victorian architecture. They started an incentive program to encourage homeowners to use "heritage" colors, which somehow morphed into the vibrant palette we see today.
Basically, it was a branding win.
Where to Actually Find the Best Colors
If you want the real experience of jellybean row st john's newfoundland, you have to work for it. Your calves are going to burn. St. John's is built on a massive slope leading down to the harbor, and the best views are found by zig-zagging.
Start at Gower Street. It's long, it's historic, and it's home to some of the most intricate woodwork in the city. You'll see "gingerbread" trim that looks like lace. Then, head over to Bond Street and Duckworth Street.
Victoria Street is arguably the most photographed spot. It’s narrow, steep, and perfectly frames the harbor at the bottom. But watch out for the cars. Locals drive these hills like they’re in a rally race, and the streets weren't exactly designed for SUVs.
Don't just look at the paint. Look at the doors. You’ll notice "storm doors" or "arctic entries." These aren't just for show; when a North Atlantic gale is screaming at 100 km/h, you need that extra layer of wood to keep your heat from vanishing.
Newfoundlanders are famously friendly. If you’re standing on the sidewalk staring at a purple house with lime green trim, don't be surprised if the owner pops their head out. "Fine day, isn't it?" even if it’s pouring rain. That’s just how it goes here.
The Architecture of Survival
These aren't just pretty boxes. They are row houses built out of necessity. After the Great Fire of 1892, which basically leveled the entire city, St. John's had to rebuild fast.
Wood was the material of choice because it was available. The houses were built side-by-side to save on heating and space. This created a continuous wall of color. You’ll notice the "mansard roofs"—those sloped roofs with windows sticking out (dormers). They were popular because they allowed for more living space in the attic without the tax man counting it as a full story. Clever, right?
The Maintenance Nightmare
Living in a jellybean house isn't all whimsy and tea. The salt air is brutal. It eats paint for breakfast.
Most homeowners in the downtown core have to repaint every few years. If you don’t, the wood rots, and the color fades into a sad, salty pastel. There’s a specific pride in it, though. There are actually "heritage color palettes" provided by companies like Benjamin Moore specifically for St. John's, featuring names like "Bayman Berry" or "Signal Hill Gold."
Why the Colors Matter Now
In a world where every suburban development looks like a beige beige-scape, jellybean row st john's newfoundland is a middle finger to monotony. It represents the resilience of the people.
Newfoundland has had a hard go of it. The collapse of the cod fishery in 1992 gutted the economy. But the city didn't stay gray. By leaning into the bright, the bold, and the slightly ridiculous, St. John's signaled that it wasn't going anywhere.
It's about identity.
When you stand on Signal Hill and look down at the bowl of the city, the colors pop against the dark water of the Narrows. It’s one of the few places in North America that feels genuinely European while being fiercely Canadian.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
- Wear real shoes. Seriously. Flip-flops on a 20-degree incline are a recipe for a broken ankle.
- Parking is a nightmare. Park in a garage on the harbor front and walk up. The streets are one-way and confusing.
- Respect the residents. These are people's homes, not a movie set. Don't go walking up onto porches for the "perfect shot."
- Check the weather. If it’s "sou'west" weather, the fog will be in. You might not see the colors at all. Locals call it being "socked in."
How to Do St. John's Right
Once you’ve finished your self-guided tour of the houses, head down to Water Street. It’s the oldest street in North America. Grab a pint at The Duke of Duckworth or some fish and chips at Ches’s.
If you’re feeling adventurous, drive ten minutes to Quidi Vidi. It’s a tiny fishing village tucked into a hidden gut. The houses there are just as colorful, but they sit right on the water on stilts (called stages).
The magic of jellybean row st john's newfoundland isn't just the paint. It's the fact that in one of the harshest climates on earth, people chose to live in a rainbow.
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Next Steps for Your Trip
- Download the "St. John's Historic Map" from the municipal website to find the specific "Heritage Areas."
- Visit the Rooms Museum. It sits at the top of the hill and offers the single best panoramic view of the colored rows against the harbor.
- Book a walking tour. Local guides like those from St. John's Walking Tours know the specific gossip behind which neighbor chose which "ugly" color just to annoy the person next door.