So, you’re looking at La Fortuna. It’s the tourist heart of Costa Rica, a town basically built in the shadow of the Arenal Volcano, which—let’s be honest—looks like something a kid would draw if you asked them to sketch a "perfect" volcano. You’ve probably seen a dozen different stays, from the ultra-luxurious spots that cost a mortgage payment to the backpacker hostels where you share a bunk with a guy named Moonbeam. But then there’s Los Lagos Spa & Resort, a place that occupies this weirdly specific, almost legendary middle ground in the local tourism scene.
It’s not just another hotel. It’s a massive 1,000-plus acre estate.
People usually book here for one reason: the water. But there’s a lot more going on behind the scenes that most travel blogs gloss over because they’re just rewriting a brochure. If you want the real dirt on what it’s like to stay at Los Lagos, you have to look at how they manage to keep that "classic Costa Rica" vibe while the rest of the region is turning into a high-end luxury mall.
The Reality of the Hot Springs
Let’s talk about the hot springs first because that’s the main draw. Most hotels in the Arenal area either have their own springs or they partner with places like Tabacon or Baldi. Los Lagos has its own, and they aren’t just "warm pools." They use natural geothermal energy to heat a series of pools that range from "mildly refreshing" to "am I being poached like an egg?"
What’s cool is the layout. Instead of one giant pool where everyone is splashing around, they’ve carved out these tiered basins. It feels a bit more private, though on a Saturday afternoon during peak season, "private" is a relative term. The water is mineral-rich. You’ll smell a bit of sulfur. That’s normal. That’s the volcano talking.
One thing people often miss is the cold water pool at the bottom. Do not skip the cold plunge. It sounds miserable when you’re already relaxed, but the contrast is what actually helps with muscle recovery after you’ve spent all day hiking the 1968 Trail. It’s basically nature’s version of cryotherapy, minus the expensive machine and the weird jumpsuit.
Getting Around the Property is a Workout
Here is something the glossy photos don’t emphasize: Los Lagos is huge. I’m talking "you might want to wait for the shuttle" huge. If you’re stayed in the rooms further up the hill, you’re going to get your steps in.
The topography of the resort mimics the base of the volcano itself. It’s lush. It’s steep in places. You’re walking through secondary forest most of the time. This is great for seeing wildlife—I’ve seen more toucans and coatis on the Los Lagos grounds than I have on some paid tours—but it’s something to keep in mind if you have mobility issues or if you just really hate walking uphill in 90% humidity.
- Pro tip: Ask for a room near the main reception if you want quick access to the breakfast buffet and the main pool area.
- The alternative: Embrace the hike. The views of the volcano from the higher points of the property are arguably the best in the entire valley because there aren't any buildings obstructing the cone.
The Rooms: Comfort Over Minimalism
If you’re looking for that "Scandinavian-chic-meets-jungle" aesthetic that’s all over Instagram right now, Los Lagos might surprise you. The rooms are traditional. We’re talking solid wood furniture, tiled floors, and plenty of space. They feel like a Tico home, not a boutique hotel in Brooklyn.
They’re clean. They’re functional. The AC works—which is the most important thing when the jungle humidity hits. Honestly, the best part isn't the decor anyway; it's the fact that many of the "Standard" and "Superior" rooms have a direct view of the volcano from the front porch. Waking up at 5:30 AM to see the clouds clearing off the peak while you sit there in your pajamas is a core memory kind of moment.
Some guests complain that the rooms feel "dated." I’d argue they’re just not trendy. There’s a difference. Trendy hotels use cheap materials that look good in photos but fall apart in three years. Los Lagos is built to last in a tropical environment where everything wants to rust, mold, or be eaten by bugs.
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Beyond the Pools: The Butterfly Garden and Frogs
A lot of people stay at Los Lagos Spa & Resort and never leave the pool area. That is a massive mistake. They have a legitimate butterfly garden and a frog pond on-site.
The butterfly garden isn't just a cage with two sad monarchs. It’s a full ecosystem. If you go in the morning when the sun starts hitting the plants, the activity is wild. You’ll see Blue Morphos—those giant, electric-blue butterflies that are basically the mascot of Costa Rica. They’re fast, though. Good luck getting a non-blurry photo.
Then there’s the frog habitat. If you go at night with a flashlight (or join one of the informal walks), you can spot the Red-Eyed Tree Frog. It’s a tiny thing, way smaller than you’d think from looking at National Geographic. Seeing them in the wild—or a semi-wild habitat like this—is way better than seeing them in a glass tank at a tourist trap in town.
Food, Logistics, and the "Hidden" Costs
Breakfast is usually included, and it’s a massive spread. You’ve got your Gallo Pinto (rice and beans), which you should eat every single day because it’s fuel for the jungle. They also have the standard omelet stations and fruit.
For lunch and dinner, the Las Palmas restaurant is... fine. It’s convenient. But here’s the thing: you’re only a 10-minute drive from the center of La Fortuna. While the hotel food is decent, you’re doing yourself a disservice if you don’t head into town to try some of the local sodas (small, family-run restaurants).
Let’s talk money. Los Lagos is priced reasonably for what you get, but keep an eye on the extras. Spa treatments are awesome but can add up. The canopy tour (ziplining) on-site is actually one of the better ones in the area because it’s integrated into the property, but it’s an additional fee.
Is it worth it?
If you have kids, yes. Absolutely. There are waterslides. There are lizards everywhere. It’s a playground. If you’re a honeymooning couple looking for total silence, you might find the pool area a bit loud during the day, but the property is big enough that you can always find a quiet corner if you’re willing to walk.
Why Location Actually Matters Here
You’ll see hotels advertised as being "in Arenal" that are actually 45 minutes away in the middle of nowhere. Los Lagos is located on the road between La Fortuna and the Arenal Volcano National Park. This is the sweet spot.
You are close enough to the park to be the first person on the trail at 8:00 AM, but close enough to town that you can grab a pizza or hit the pharmacy without it being a whole expedition. You’re also right down the street from the Tabacon River (the free public hot springs), which is fun to visit just to see the local scene, even if you have the fancy pools back at the hotel.
What most people get wrong about staying here
People often think they need a rental car with 4WD to get to Los Lagos. You don’t. The road from San Jose is paved the whole way. The driveway is paved. You could get here in a Kia Rio if you really wanted to, though a car with a bit of clearance is always better for the side roads in Costa Rica.
Another misconception: "The volcano is going to erupt."
Arenal has been "resting" since 2010. You won't see red-hot lava tumbling down the side like it’s 1992. You’ll see steam, and you’ll see a majestic, green-clad mountain. It’s still technically active, but it’s not the pyrotechnic show it used to be. Don't let that disappoint you; the sheer scale of the mountain is enough.
Navigating Your Stay: Actionable Advice
If you're planning to head to Los Lagos Spa & Resort, don't just wing it. The place is popular for a reason, and it can get busy. Here is how you actually handle a stay there like a pro:
- Book the Canopy Tour early. The ziplines here offer a great view of the volcano, and they tend to fill up in the mornings when the weather is clearest. If you wait until the afternoon, the clouds usually roll in, and you’ll be ziplining through a literal cloud. Cool, but you miss the view.
- Bring your own water bottle. The water at the resort is potable (safe to drink), and buying plastic bottles at the gift shop is a waste of money and bad for the environment. Fill up at the restaurant or your room.
- The "Lava Slide" is faster than it looks. Seriously. If you’re an adult, you’re going to pick up some serious momentum. Hold on to your swimsuit.
- Explore the Mirador. There is an observation point (Mirador) on the property. Go there for sunset. Most people are at the bars or in the pools at that time. You’ll have the view of the volcano and the Lake Arenal in the distance almost to yourself.
- Pack a dry bag. Between the hot springs, the sudden tropical downpours, and the humidity, your stuff will get wet. Having a small dry bag for your phone and wallet while you move between the pools is a lifesaver.
Los Lagos isn't trying to be a five-star ultra-modern monolith. It’s a sprawling, slightly chaotic, deeply green, and incredibly fun piece of Costa Rican history. It’s where you go when you want the volcano experience without the pretense. Just watch out for the coatis—they’re cute, but they will absolutely steal your snacks if you leave them on the pool chair.
Next Steps for Your Trip
- Check the local weather patterns for your specific month; September and October are the rainiest, while February and March are the driest.
- Verify if your booking includes the "Hot Springs Pass" for the full duration of your stay, as this is the primary value-add of the resort.
- Map out your driving route from Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO) to avoid the "Route 3" mountain passes if you aren't comfortable with heavy fog and switchbacks.