Why Patterns by Tracee Ellis Ross Changed the Way We See Our Curls

Tracee Ellis Ross didn't just wake up one day and decide to slap her name on a bottle of shampoo. It took ten years. A whole decade of pitching, hearing "no," and being told there wasn't a market for big hair. Honestly, if you’ve ever sat on your bathroom floor trying to detangle a week’s worth of curls with a comb that wasn't built for you, you know exactly why Patterns by Tracee Ellis Ross had to happen.

It’s about the space between 3B and 4C. It's the "juicy" hair.

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When PATTERN Beauty finally launched in 2019, the industry shifted. People weren't just buying a product; they were buying into a philosophy that curly, coily, and tight-textured hair isn't a "problem" to be solved or managed. It's something to be celebrated. Tracee often talks about how she used to spend her paycheck on hair products that just didn't work, mixing concoctions in her bathroom like a mad scientist. We've all been there. The struggle is real, and the results were usually crunchy or greasy.

The Decade of "No" and the Shift to "Yes"

Tracee Ellis Ross started writing the brand pitch for what would become Patterns by Tracee Ellis Ross back when Girlfriends was still on the air. Think about that. The corporate world told her the market was too niche. They thought Black hair was a "sub-category."

They were wrong.

What makes PATTERN different from the dozens of "natural hair" brands that flooded Target shelves in the 2010s is the intentionality of the formulas. Most legacy brands were still using silicones and sulfates that stripped the hair. Tracee insisted on ingredients like aloe vera leaf juice, coconut oil, and honey—stuff that actually penetrates the cuticle instead of just sitting on top of it.

The launch was iconic. It wasn't just a PR stunt; it was a 74-piece collection (now much larger) that addressed the actual physics of curly hair. We aren't talking about "one size fits all" here. There’s a specific science to the tension of a coil. If you use a product designed for 2A waves on 4C coils, you’re basically just putting water on a raincoat. It’s not going to sink in.

Understanding the "Juicy" Aesthetic

You’ve probably heard Tracee use the word "juicy" a thousand times. It’s her North Star. To her, juicy means hydrated. It means a curl that has bounce and life because it’s not thirsty.

The Heavy Conditioners

One of the biggest gripes in the curly community for years was that bottles were too small. We go through conditioner like it’s water. Patterns by Tracee Ellis Ross fixed this by offering jumbo sizes that actually last more than two wash days.

• The Intensive Conditioner: This is for the tightest textures. It’s thick. Like, "stick a spoon in it and it won't move" thick.
• The Medium Conditioner: Great for slip. If you have 3C hair that tangles if you even look at it wrong, this is the one.
• The Lightweight Conditioner: For the fine-haired folks who want definition without the weight.

The brand also leaned heavily into tools. Have you seen that hair pick? It’s not just a plastic comb. It has extra-long prongs to get to the root without disturbing the curl pattern. It’s these small, expert-led details that separate a celebrity brand from a genuine hair care solution.

Why the "Niche" Argument Failed

The business world likes to pigeonhole "ethnic" hair care. But Tracee’s vision for Patterns by Tracee Ellis Ross proved that when you build for the most underserved, you actually build a better product for everyone. The brand is now a staple in Sephora and Ulta, sitting right next to luxury brands that used to ignore textured hair entirely.

It’s a massive business success story. But more than that, it’s a cultural touchstone.

We’ve moved past the "transitioning" phase of the early 2000s where everyone was terrified of their natural texture. Now, it’s about health. It’s about the scalp. PATTERN’s expansion into scalp serums and blow-dry brushes (which, by the way, are designed to not heat-damage coils) shows a deep understanding of the lifecycle of Black hair.

The Reality of the Formula

Let’s get real for a second. Is it the cheapest brand? No. Is it the most expensive? Also no. It sits in that "attainable luxury" tier. Some critics initially wondered if the formulas were worth the price tag compared to drugstore staples like Shea Moisture or Cantu.

The difference is in the "slip."

If a product doesn't have slip, you're going to break your hair while detangling. PATTERN uses surfactants and emollients that prioritize the integrity of the hair strand. While some older brands relied on heavy waxes that caused buildup, Tracee’s line focuses on moisture that can be washed out easily, preventing that "gray" cast that some products leave on dark hair.

Navigating the PATTERN System

If you’re looking to dive in, don't just buy a random bottle. You have to know your porosity.

1. Low Porosity: Your hair takes forever to get wet and forever to dry. Use the Lightweight Conditioner and warm water to open that cuticle.
2. High Porosity: Your hair drinks water but loses it instantly. You need the Intensive Conditioner and the Jojoba Oil Blend to "lock" it in.
3. The Scalp Factor: Don't ignore the Scalp Serum. If your follicles are clogged with dry shampoo and old gel, your hair isn't going to grow. Period.

Actionable Steps for Your Next Wash Day

Stop treating your hair like a chore. That’s the biggest takeaway from the PATTERN ethos. It’s a ritual.

• Start with the Cleansing Shampoo. It removes the "gunk" without making your hair feel like straw.
• Section your hair. For the love of all things holy, do not try to wash your hair in one big clump. Four sections, minimum.
• Apply conditioner to soaking wet hair. Not damp. Wet. This helps the product distribute evenly.
• Use the Microfiber Towel. Toss your old cotton t-shirt or rough bath towel. Cotton loops snag curls. Microfiber absorbs water without causing frizz.
• Seal with oil. Whether it's the Argan Oil blend or the Jojoba, you need a sealant to keep that moisture from evaporating into the air.

Patterns by Tracee Ellis Ross succeeded because it was built by someone who actually uses the products. It wasn't a corporate boardroom decision; it was a bathroom floor decision. By focusing on the specific needs of 3B to 4C hair, Tracee created a space where "big hair" isn't just accepted—it's the standard.

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Invest in a high-quality detangling brush and a jumbo-sized conditioner. Your curls will literally look different within two washes once they stop being thirsty. It's time to let your hair take up space.