You’ve mastered the classic three-strand braid. Maybe you’ve even conquered the fishtail without losing your mind. But then you see it—the 5 strand braid. It looks like a literal piece of woven fabric sitting on someone’s head. It looks impossible. You probably assume you need three hands or a degree in structural engineering to pull it off, but honestly, it’s just a rhythm. Once you find the beat, your fingers just kind of take over.
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If you can move a piece of hair over one strand and under another, you can do this. It’s basically just weaving. Think of it like a basket. Most people fail because they try to track all five strands at once. That’s a recipe for a headache. Instead, you only ever need to worry about the one strand you’re currently moving. The rest are just waiting their turn.
The Secret to Not Tangling Your Life Away
Before you even touch a hair tie, let’s talk prep. You cannot do a 5 strand braid on messy, "I just rolled out of bed" hair unless you want to spend three hours detangling it later. It’s just not worth it. Use a detangling spray or a light hair oil. I’m a fan of something like the Moroccanoil Treatment or even just a cheap drugstore leave-in conditioner. You want the hair to be slippery enough to glide but not so greasy that you can’t hold onto it.
Why Texture Matters
If your hair is pin-straight and "slippery," the braid will fall out before you finish. Professional stylists like Lacy Redway often suggest using a dry texture spray or even a bit of sea salt spray to give the hair some "grip."
If you have curly or coily hair, you actually have an advantage here. The natural texture holds the weave together better. Just make sure you’ve sectioned it cleanly. Use a rat-tail comb. Seriously. Precise sections are the difference between a high-fashion look and looking like you got caught in a hedge.
How to Do 5 Strand Braid Without Losing Your Mind
Let’s get into the actual movement. Imagine your five strands are numbered 1 through 5, from left to right.
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- The Outer Left (Strand 1): Take this piece. Cross it over Strand 2 and then under Strand 3. Now, Strand 1 is sitting in the middle.
- The Outer Right (Strand 5): Take this piece. Cross it over Strand 4 and then under the "new" Strand 3 (which was originally Strand 1).
That’s it. That is the entire cycle.
Over, under. Over, under. It feels weird at first. Your pinky fingers are going to feel like they’re doing a workout. But notice the pattern: the outside strand always goes over its neighbor and under the next one. It never goes under-over. It’s always over-under.
Keep your hands close to the head. If you pull the hair out toward you, the braid will be loose and saggy. Tension is everything. You want it tight enough to see the "woven" effect but not so tight that you're giving yourself a facelift.
Managing the "Claw" Grip
How do you hold five strands with only two hands? It’s all about the "claw." You’ll use your pinky and ring fingers to hold the idle strands against your palm, while your thumb and index fingers do the actual weaving. It’s a bit like playing a guitar chord. It feels clunky for the first five minutes, then your muscle memory kicks in.
Common Mistakes That Ruin the Look
Most beginners lose track of which strand is which.
It happens.
You get a phone notification, you look up, and suddenly you have no idea if you’re on the left or the right.
Pro tip: If you get lost, look at the edges. The strand that is "sticking out" the most is the one that needs to move next.
Another big issue is uneven sectioning. If Strand 2 is twice as thick as Strand 4, the braid is going to look lopsided. Take the extra thirty seconds at the start to make sure all five sections are roughly the same volume. Use your mirror. Check the back.
Elevating the Braid: The Dutch 5 Strand
Once you’ve got the basic "over-under" rhythm down, you can try the Dutch version. This is what you see on Pinterest—the braid that looks like it's 3D and sitting on top of the hair.
The logic is the same, but you reverse the direction. Instead of going over-under, you go under-over.
It’s a subtle change, but the visual impact is huge. It makes the braid pop. If you have thin hair, this is the version you want. After you finish braiding, you can "pancake" it. This just means gently pulling at the edges of each loop to make the braid look wider and thicker. It’s a classic trick used by bridal stylists to make fine hair look like a lush mane.
Tools That Actually Help
- Clear Elastics: Don't use those thick fabric hair ties. They’ll bulk up the bottom and ruin the tapered look.
- Sectioning Clips: Use these to keep the rest of your hair out of the way while you’re working.
- Boar Bristle Brush: Great for smoothing the hair before you start.
The Cultural Roots of Complex Braiding
We can't talk about intricate braiding without acknowledging where it comes from. While the 5 strand braid is often seen in European "folk" styles, the history of complex multi-strand weaving is deeply rooted in African hair traditions. Anthropologists and historians, like Dr. Willie Morrow in his work on the history of Black hair, have documented how braids were used to signify status, tribe, and even age.
When you’re doing a 5 strand braid, you’re participating in a technique that’s thousands of years old. It’s not just a "Pinterest trend." It’s craft.
Real Talk: It Will Probably Mess Up the First Time
My first attempt at this looked like a tangled bird's nest.
I’m not even kidding.
I got halfway down, my hand cramped, I dropped a strand, and the whole thing unraveled.
That’s normal.
If you find yourself getting frustrated, stop. Let the hair down. Brush it out. Try again tomorrow. Braiding is a mechanical skill, like knitting or typing. Your brain needs time to wire those specific finger movements.
Practice Hack
Try practicing on three long pieces of ribbon or thick yarn taped to a table. It sounds silly, but it takes the "hair" factor out of the equation. You aren't worrying about frizz or flyaways; you're just learning the over-under-over-under movement. Once your hands "know" the rhythm, move back to actual hair.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Attempt
Ready to try it for real? Don't just wing it. Follow this sequence:
- Step 1: Start with "day two" hair. Super clean hair is often too slippery. If you just washed it, blast it with some dry shampoo to add grit.
- Step 2: Divide the hair into five equal sections. Use a tiny bit of pomade or hair wax on your fingertips to keep the sections distinct.
- Step 3: Start high. If you start the braid too low (near the nape of the neck), it’s harder to control the tension.
- Step 4: Maintain a "constant" tension. Don't pull harder on the left than the right, or the braid will curve.
- Step 5: Secure with a clear elastic and spray with a firm-hold hairspray.
The beauty of the 5 strand braid is its versatility. You can wear it as a single ponytail braid, or if you're feeling ambitious, do two "pigtail" versions for a more athletic, boxed-look. It even works as a side-swept romantic style for weddings.
The more you do it, the faster you’ll get. Eventually, you’ll be doing it in five minutes while you wait for your coffee to brew. Just keep the "over-under" mantra in your head, and you'll be fine. No engineering degree required.