Wells is tiny. Honestly, it’s basically a village that grew a massive ego because it has a cathedral. But that’s the charm, isn't it? People often get confused when they realize the City of Wells England—despite having "city" in the name—is home to fewer than 12,000 people. You can walk across the whole thing in twenty minutes if you’re moving fast, but you won't. You’ll stop because the architecture is just that distracting.
Most people flock to Bath or Bristol. They want the Roman baths or the street art. They skip Wells. That is a mistake. This place feels less like a tourist trap and more like a film set that someone forgot to take down after the crew went home. If you've seen the movie Hot Fuzz, you already know what the streets look like, even if you didn't realize it was filmed here. It’s that perfect, slightly eerie British beauty where the grass is too green and the stones are too old.
The Cathedral That Built a City
You can't talk about Wells without the Cathedral. It’s the literal and metaphorical center of everything. Built between 1175 and 1490, it was the first English cathedral to be designed entirely in the Gothic style. No Romanesque leftovers here. It’s pure, soaring lines.
The West Front is arguably the finest collection of medieval statuary in the world. There are over 300 figures. Some have lost heads; others look like they’re judging your choice of footwear. When the sun hits those carvings late in the afternoon, the stone turns a warm, honey-gold color that makes your phone camera feel inadequate.
Inside, you’ll find the Scissor Arches. These aren't just for show. In the 14th century, the central tower started sinking because the ground in Somerset is essentially a massive sponge. The engineers of the time didn't panic. They didn't tear it down. They built these massive, inverted arches to brace the weight. It looks like a piece of modern art dropped into a medieval hall. It’s brilliant engineering born out of a "we messed up" moment.
The Clock That Never Stops
Then there’s the Wells Cathedral Clock. It dates back to about 1390. Every quarter-hour, two knights on horseback go around in circles, hitting each other. One gets knocked down every time. It’s been happening for over six centuries.
There’s also Jack Blandifer. He’s a little wooden man sitting high up who kicks his heels against bells. It’s simple. It’s mechanical. It’s a reminder that even in the 1300s, people liked a bit of theater with their timekeeping.
Vicars’ Close: The Street That Time Forgot
Just north of the Cathedral is Vicars' Close. It is widely cited as the oldest purely residential street with surviving original buildings in Europe. It was built for the men of the choir because the Bishop was tired of them living all over town and getting into trouble. He wanted them close, controlled, and focused on singing.
The perspective here is a trick. The street is narrower at the top than at the bottom. This makes it look longer when you’re standing at the entrance, and the houses look more imposing. It’s a medieval optical illusion. People still live here. Imagine your daily commute being a walk down a 14th-century paved lane while tourists stare through your front window.
The Bishop’s Palace and the Swans
The Bishop’s Palace is right next door. It has a moat. A real, honest-to-god moat with water and ducks. The bishops here weren't just religious leaders; they were powerful lords who needed protection.
The highlight for most visitors—and honestly, for the locals too—are the swans. Since the 1870s, the swans on the moat have been trained to ring a bell when they want food. A monk’s daughter originally taught them how to do it. The current generation of swans still does it. They swim up to the window, pull a rope attached to a bell, and wait for a human to drop some grain. It’s a bit of a power move on their part.
The gardens at the Palace are where the city gets its name. There are five natural springs (the "wells") that bubble up from the ground. These pools are eerily still and incredibly deep. This is where the ancient people of Somerset gathered long before the first stone of the cathedral was laid.
Market Day and Modern Life
The City of Wells England isn't just a museum. People actually live here. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, the Market Place fills up with stalls.
You’ll find local Somerset cheeses that are strong enough to clear your sinuses. There’s handmade jewelry, fresh bread, and usually someone selling vintage maps. It’s the heart of the community. If you want to see the "real" Wells, go on a Wednesday morning when the mist is still hanging over the Mendip Hills and the smell of coffee is competing with the damp stone smell of the Cathedral.
Where to Eat and Drink
Don't go to a chain. Seriously.
- The Crown at Wells: This is where the cast of Hot Fuzz stayed. It’s an old coaching inn with low ceilings and floors that aren't quite level.
- The Bishop’s Table: Great for a scone. Sit outside if the weather isn't being typically British (i.e., raining).
- A Pint of Cider: You are in Somerset. If you don't drink local cider, you’re doing it wrong. Just be careful; the local stuff is often much stronger than the mass-produced stuff you find in London.
Hidden Details You’ll Probably Miss
Most people walk right past the "Penniless Porch." It’s one of the gateways into the Cathedral Green. It got its name because beggars used to congregate there, hoping for a few coins from wealthy churchgoers.
Look up at the carvings in the Cathedral's quire. You'll see "misericords"—small wooden ledges on the underside of folding seats. They were designed so that monks, who had to stand for hours during long services, could lean back and rest their bums while appearing to stand up straight. The carvings on them are often weird: dragons, cats, people in awkward positions. It’s a glimpse into the sense of humor of the medieval craftsmen.
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Logistics: Getting There and Getting Around
Wells has no train station.
That’s probably why it has stayed so preserved. If it had a direct line to London, it would be overrun. Instead, you have to take a train to Castle Cary or Bath and then hop on a bus or grab a taxi. It takes effort. That effort acts as a filter, keeping the crowds at a manageable level compared to places like Oxford or Stratford-upon-Avon.
Parking is a nightmare. If you’re driving, use the car parks on the edge of the center. Everything inside the city is pedestrian-friendly. Wear comfortable shoes. The cobblestones are unforgiving.
What Most People Get Wrong About Wells
People assume it’s a sleepy retirement village. While the average age is definitely higher than in a university town, there’s a weird, creative energy here. There are film festivals, literature events, and a surprisingly active local music scene. It’s not just a place where history happened; it’s a place where people are trying to figure out how to keep history relevant in 2026.
Some think the Cathedral is the only thing to see. You could spend three days here and not see it all. The Mendip Hills, just outside the city, offer some of the best hiking in the West Country. Ebbor Gorge and Wookey Hole Caves are just a few miles away. You’ve got the limestone cliffs and the subterranean rivers. It’s a landscape that feels ancient because it is.
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The Reality of Visiting
Is it expensive? A bit. It’s a posh part of the country. Is it worth it? Absolutely.
You don't come to the City of Wells England for a wild night out. You come here to slow down. You come here to stand in a building that has stood for 800 years and realize that your problems are actually quite small in the grand scheme of things.
The air is cleaner here. The pace is slower.
Your Next Steps in Wells
If you're planning a trip, don't just do a day trip from London. You'll spend four hours on a bus and only two hours seeing the sights. That’s a waste.
- Book an overnight stay. Stay in one of the old inns like The Swan or The Crown. Seeing the Cathedral at night when it’s lit up and the streets are empty is a completely different experience.
- Check the Evensong schedule. Even if you aren't religious, hearing the choir sing in that acoustic space is transformative. It usually happens around 5:15 PM on weekdays.
- Walk the Moat path. Go around the back of the Bishop’s Palace. Most tourists stay in the front. The back path gives you views of the Mendips and the reflection of the palace in the water.
- Visit the museum. The Wells & Mendip Museum has a collection of lead "pigs" (ingots) from the Roman era and some very strange fossils found in the local hills.
The City of Wells England isn't trying to be anything other than what it is. It’s old, it’s beautiful, and it’s a little bit eccentric. Go there before everyone else figures out it's better than Bath.