You’ve been there. You’re halfway through a curved cut in a piece of expensive ¾-inch oak, and the cord on your old saw snags on the edge of the workbench. The blade jumps. You swear. That’s usually the exact moment people decide to drop the cash on a DeWalt XR jig saw.
Honestly, the transition to cordless tools used to be a compromise. You traded power for freedom. But the DCS334 and its barrel-grip cousin, the DCS335, changed that narrative a few years back. They didn’t just "work well for a battery tool"—they actually started outperforming the corded dinosaurs gathering dust on our shelves. It’s about the brushless motor. It’s about the inertia. Most importantly, it's about not tripping over a yellow cable while you’re trying to concentrate on a scribe line.
What Actually Makes the DeWalt XR Jig Saw Different?
If you look at the spec sheet for the DCS334B, you’ll see "brushless motor" plastered everywhere. Marketing fluff? Not really. In a jig saw, the brushless tech is less about the "forever" lifespan of the tool and more about how the saw handles resistance. When you hit a knot in pressure-treated lumber, a brushed motor bogs down. The DeWalt XR jig saw senses that load and maintains its strokes per minute (SPM). It tops out at 3,200 SPM, which is plenty fast, but the magic is in the variable speed trigger.
I’ve talked to floor installers who swear by the precision of the trigger. You can feather it. If you’re starting a delicate cut in laminate, you don’t want the saw screaming at full tilt immediately. You want a slow, surgical entry. This saw gives you that.
The weight is another thing. It’s beefy. With a 5.0Ah battery attached, it feels significant in your hand. Some people hate that. They want light. But in the world of woodworking, weight is often your friend. It dampens vibration. A light, plasticky saw will chatter and jump, leaving "washboard" marks on your wood. The XR stays planted. It wants to stay in the cut.
The Blade Change Mystery
Everyone raves about "toolless blade changes," but some manufacturers make it feel like a puzzle box. DeWalt uses an all-metal, lever-action keyless blade clamp. It’s fast. You flip the lever, the hot blade literally ejects—don’t do this over your foot—and you snap a new T-shank blade in.
One thing to watch out for: it only takes T-shank blades. If you have a drawer full of old U-shank blades from your grandpa’s 1980s Black & Decker, they’re useless here. Toss 'em. T-shanks are the industry standard now for a reason; they provide much better grip and vertical alignment, which reduces that annoying blade deflection where the top of your cut looks perfect but the bottom is a quarter-inch off.
Dealing With Blade Deflection and Accuracy
Let's be real for a second. No jig saw is a table saw. If you're trying to rip a 4-foot straight line in plywood, use a circular saw. Jig saws are for curves, notches, and weird cutouts for electrical boxes.
The DeWalt XR jig saw tackles the deflection issue—the "leaning" blade—with a beefy guide roller. This roller sits low, cradling the back of the blade. It keeps the steel from bending backward under pressure. Even so, if you force the saw, the blade will bend. That’s physics. The trick with the XR is to let the 3,200 SPM do the work. Don't push. Just guide.
Orbital Action Explained (Simply)
There’s a little black lever on the side with four positions. 0, 1, 2, 3.
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- Position 0 is straight up and down. Use this for metal or super clean cuts in thin veneer.
- Position 3 is the "aggressive" mode. The blade moves in an elliptical, circular motion. It bites into the wood. It’s fast. It’s also messy.
If you’re framing a deck and need to notch a 4x4, crank it to 3. If you’re cutting a hole for a sink in a butcher block counter, keep it at 1 or 0.
The Ergonomics: D-Handle vs. Barrel Grip
This is the Ford vs. Chevrolet debate of the power tool world. The DCS334 is the D-handle. It has the traditional trigger. The DCS335 is the barrel grip.
The D-handle is what most Americans grew up with. It’s comfortable. It’s easy to grab. The variable speed is in the trigger, which is intuitive. However, the barrel grip (DCS335) has a dedicated fan base for a reason. It lowers your center of gravity. Your hand is closer to the workpiece, which theoretically gives you more control over intricate curves. But here’s the kicker: the barrel grip uses an on/off switch instead of a trigger. You set the speed on a dial. If you’re used to feathering the trigger to slow down at the end of a cut, the barrel grip will feel alien and maybe even a bit dangerous at first.
Honestly? Most DIYers and general contractors should stick with the D-handle. It’s more versatile for one-handed use.
Real-World Battery Life
Don't bother with the tiny 2.0Ah batteries. They’ll work, but the balance will feel off. The sweet spot is a 4.0Ah or 5.0Ah pack. You can cut miles of trim on a single charge. If you’re using the PowerStack batteries, you’ll notice a bit more "punch" in thick material, but for a jig saw, the standard XR cylindrical cell batteries are more than enough.
One thing people forget: the LED lights. The DeWalt XR jig saw has dual LEDs that illuminate both sides of the blade. In a dim garage or a dark corner of a job site, this is a lifesaver. You can actually see your pencil line. It’s a simple feature, but once you have it, you can’t go back.
Dust Management: The Weak Point?
If there’s a gripe to be had, it’s the dust blower. It’s supposed to clear the sawdust so you can see your line. It works... okay. It’s not a leaf blower. If you’re cutting MDF, the fine dust is going to settle regardless. DeWalt sells a dust extraction port (usually separately), but hooking a vacuum hose to a jig saw makes the tool feel clunky. It defeats the purpose of being cordless. Most of us just blow on the wood with our mouths anyway. Old habits die hard.
Why Pros Choose This Over Cheaper Alternatives
You could go to a big-box store and buy a corded saw for $50. It’ll cut. But the DeWalt XR jig saw offers a refined shoe. It’s a tool-free beveling shoe with detents at 0°, 15°, 30°, and 45°. Cheap saws have stamped steel shoes that bend if you drop them. This one is die-cast aluminum. It’s flat. It stays flat.
Also, the no-mar cover is huge. If you’re cutting pre-finished cabinetry, you don't want the metal shoe scratching the finish. The plastic cover snaps on and saves you a lot of heartache (and wood filler).
Actionable Steps for Getting the Most Out of Your Saw
- Match the blade to the material. This sounds obvious, but I see people cutting PVC with wood blades all the time. It melts the plastic. Buy a variety pack of Bosch or DeWalt T-shank blades—bi-metal is usually worth the extra couple of dollars for the longevity.
- Check the shoe squareness. Out of the box, most are perfect, but life happens. Use a small square to ensure the blade is 90 degrees to the base. If it’s not, your joints will never close properly.
- Use the "Blue Tape" trick. If you're worried about splintering the top of your wood, run a strip of painter's tape over your cut line. Draw the line on the tape. The adhesive holds the wood fibers down while the blade teeth exit the material, giving you a much cleaner edge.
- Don't skip the "0" setting. When cutting metal or thick plastic, turn the orbital action off. If you leave it on 3, you'll likely break teeth off the blade or get a terrifying amount of kickback.
- Keep it clean. Sawdust gets into the blade clamp. Every few projects, hit it with a blast of compressed air and a tiny drop of dry lubricant. Avoid heavy oils that just turn sawdust into gunk.
The DeWalt XR jig saw isn't just a tool for people already "on the yellow platform." It’s a legitimate reason to buy your first DeWalt battery. It’s balanced, it’s powerful, and it handles curves with a smoothness that makes you forget you’re not plugged into a wall. Just keep your fingers away from the bottom of the shoe and let the brushless motor do the heavy lifting.