Why the Double Breasted Burgundy Suit is Actually a Wardrobe Essential

Why the Double Breasted Burgundy Suit is Actually a Wardrobe Essential

Most guys are terrified of color. They stick to navy. They stick to charcoal. Maybe they get "wild" and buy a light grey suit for a summer wedding. But honestly? If you want to actually stand out without looking like you’re trying too hard, you need to look at a double breasted burgundy suit. It sounds aggressive. It isn't.

The double breasted cut carries this weirdly unfair reputation of being "stiff" or "corporate 80s." You think of Wall Street guys with massive shoulder pads. That’s not what we’re doing here. A modern burgundy suit in a six-on-two button configuration is arguably the most sophisticated thing a man can own right now. It bridges the gap between the stuffy boardroom and the high-fashion red carpet.

It Isn't Just for Weddings

People think burgundy is a "special occasion" color. Wrong. While it’s definitely a killer choice for a fall wedding, the versatility of a double breasted burgundy suit goes way deeper than a ceremony at a vineyard.

Think about the psychology of color for a second. Navy is authoritative. Black is formal (and sometimes a bit morbid). Burgundy? It’s warm. It’s approachable. It suggests you have enough confidence to deviate from the uniform without being loud like a bright red or a vibrant cobalt. It’s the "thinking man’s" power suit.

I've seen guys pull this off at creative offices or high-end dinner dates. The trick is the fabric. If you go with a heavy wool flannel, it looks heritage and rugged. If you go with a silk-blend or a high-twist Italian wool, it looks like something you’d wear to a premiere in Milan.

Breaking Down the Fit

A double breasted suit lives or dies by the tailoring. There is zero room for error. Because of the extra fabric across the chest, if it’s too big, you look like you’re wearing a tent. If it’s too small, the buttons pull and create these ugly "X" creases that scream uncomfortable.

You want the jacket to hug your midsection. Not squeeze it. Just a gentle embrace. The peak lapels—a staple of the double breasted style—should point toward your shoulders, creating an optical illusion of a wider chest and a narrower waist. It’s basically a gym membership in garment form.

The Secret of the Six-on-Two

If you’re looking at these suits online, you’ll see numbers like 6x2 or 4x2. This just refers to the number of buttons. Six buttons total, but only two actually fasten. This is the gold standard for a double breasted burgundy suit. It creates a longer "V" shape at the chest, which is much more flattering for most body types than the 6x3, which can look a bit like a military tunic.

Don't ever button the bottom button. Just don't. It’s a rule that dates back to King Edward VII, and while some style rules are meant to be broken, this one stays. Keeping that bottom button undone allows the jacket to drape naturally as you move. It keeps things from looking rigid.

What to Wear Underneath

This is where people usually mess up. They think "burgundy suit" and immediately grab a white shirt. Sure, it works. It's safe. But it's also a bit predictable.

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If you want to lean into the richness of the color, try a black turtleneck. It’s a classic look that designers like Tom Ford have been pushing for years. It’s sleek. It’s mysterious. It says you’re the most interesting person in the room.

Alternatively, try a light blue denim shirt. Yeah, you heard me. A crisp, high-quality denim or chambray shirt under a double breasted burgundy suit creates this incredible "high-low" contrast. It takes the formality down a notch and makes the outfit feel modern.

Fabric Choice Changes Everything

Don't just buy the first polyester blend you see on a fast-fashion site. Burgundy is a deep, complex color that deserves a natural fiber to show off its nuances.

  • Wool Flannel: Best for winter. It has a matte finish that softens the burgundy, making it look almost like a deep plum.
  • Linen/Silk Blends: Perfect for summer. The natural slubs in the linen give the suit texture, which prevents the burgundy from looking too "shiny" in the sun.
  • Velvet: This is strictly evening wear. A burgundy velvet double breasted jacket is a statement piece. It’s bold. You wear this to a gala or a New Year's Eve party when you're okay with everyone looking at you.

Celebrities Who Got It Right

We can't talk about this suit without mentioning David Gandy or Michael B. Jordan. These guys have mastered the art of the colored suit. Gandy often leans into the more traditional, English-tailoring side of things—heavy fabrics, ticket pockets, and a structured shoulder.

On the flip side, you see someone like Timothée Chalamet wearing a more experimental, slim-cut version. It shows that the double breasted burgundy suit isn't stuck in one lane. It can be whatever you need it to be, provided the color is right for your skin tone.

Matching Your Skin Tone

Not all burgundies are created equal. Some have more blue undertones (closer to wine or oxblood), while others have more brown or orange undertones (closer to rust or maroon).

If you have a cooler skin tone (pale or with pinkish hues), go for the blue-based burgundies. If you have a warmer or olive skin tone, the brownish-reds will look incredible on you. It’s a subtle difference, but it’s the difference between looking vibrant and looking washed out.

Why the "Trend" is Actually Permanent

People call colored tailoring a trend. I disagree. The burgundy suit has been a staple of menswear since the 1920s. It goes through cycles of popularity, but it never actually goes out of style.

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The double breasted closure adds a level of intentionality. It says you didn't just grab a suit off the rack because you had to. It says you chose this. You care about the silhouette. You care about the history of tailoring.

Honestly, the biggest mistake is over-accessorizing. When you're wearing a double breasted burgundy suit, the suit is the star. You don't need a loud pocket square, a tie bar, a lapel pin, and a flashy watch. Pick one or two. Keep the tie simple—maybe a deep navy or a forest green. Let the color and the cut do the heavy lifting.

The Shoe Situation

Shoes make or break the suit. Black shoes with a burgundy suit? It’s okay. It’s very "official." But if you want to look truly stylish, go for dark brown or oxblood.

A pair of dark chocolate brown monk straps or loafers will complement the warmth of the burgundy perfectly. If you’re going for that "black turtleneck" look I mentioned earlier, then black Chelsea boots are the move. Avoid light tan shoes at all costs; the contrast is too jarring and makes the whole outfit look cheap.

Real-World Maintenance

You’ve spent the money. Now don’t ruin it. Double breasted jackets have more structure, which means they need better hangers. Use a wide, contoured wooden hanger to maintain the shoulder shape.

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And for the love of all things holy, stop dry cleaning it every time you wear it. The chemicals are harsh and will dull that rich burgundy color over time. Use a garment steamer to get the wrinkles out and a clothes brush to remove dust. Only hit the dry cleaners if you actually spilled something on it.

Actionable Steps for Your First Purchase

If you're ready to pull the trigger on a double breasted burgundy suit, start with these steps to ensure you don't end up with buyer's remorse:

  1. Check the Lapel Width: Ensure the peak lapels are proportional to your frame. If they are too skinny, the suit will look dated in two years. If they are too wide, you’ll look like a costume character. Aim for a medium width that hits about halfway to your shoulder.
  2. Assess the Fabric Weight: If this is your only burgundy suit, go for a mid-weight "four-season" wool (around 250-280 grams). This gives you the most bang for your buck throughout the year.
  3. Prioritize the Shoulders: A tailor can fix the sleeves, the waist, and even the trouser length. They cannot easily fix the shoulders. If the shoulder seam isn't sitting right at the edge of your natural shoulder, put it back on the rack.
  4. Experiment with Separates: Don't feel like you always have to wear the full suit. The burgundy jacket looks fantastic with grey wool trousers or even dark selvedge denim. The trousers can be paired with a navy blazer. You’re getting three outfits for the price of one.
  5. Focus on the Buttons: If the suit comes with cheap, shiny plastic buttons, ask your tailor to swap them out for horn or matte nut buttons. It’s a $30 upgrade that makes a $500 suit look like a $2,000 one.