Red suede. It’s a bold choice, honestly. When Jordan Brand decided to drop the Jordan 5 Red Suede back in 2017 as part of the "Flight Suit" pack, people didn’t quite know what to make of it at first. Was it a budget version of the "Raging Bull"? Or was it a standalone classic that deserved its own pedestal?
The sneakers arrived at a weird time for collectors. We were seeing a shift. The market was moving toward tech-heavy runners and Yeezys, yet here was this loud, unapologetic high-top that looked like it was dipped in a bucket of varsity red paint. It felt nostalgic but also brand new. It was a vibe.
The Real Story Behind the Jordan 5 Red Suede Design
Look, we have to talk about the "Raging Bull" (or "Toro Bravo") pack from 2009. That’s the elephant in the room. Most casual fans see a red Jordan 5 and immediately think of that legendary duo. But the Jordan 5 Red Suede—officially the "Flight Suit" colorway—actually pulls its inspiration from Michael Jordan’s iconic flight suits from the 90s.
It wasn't just a random color choice. Jordan Brand was digging into the archives of MJ’s off-court style. The shoe features a flooded red suede upper, which is surprisingly soft to the touch, though it’s a total nightmare to keep clean in the rain. Seriously, don't wear these if there's even a 10% chance of a drizzle. You’ll regret it.
The design details are what actually separate the pros from the amateurs here. Unlike the Raging Bull, which has a black midsole, the Red Suede version uses a matching red midsole. This "monochromatic-ish" look makes the shoe feel more modern. Then you’ve got the shark teeth—that classic P-51 Mustang fighter jet aesthetic—rendered in a deep black. The contrast is sharp. It’s aggressive. It looks like it wants to move fast even when it’s sitting on a shelf in your bedroom.
Materials Matter More Than You Think
Suede is a fickle beast. On this specific pair, the nap is relatively short. It’s not that "hairy" suede you see on some high-end collaborations, but it has a consistent saturation. That’s the key. If the red isn't consistent across the panels, the whole shoe looks cheap.
The 3M reflective tongue is the cherry on top. It’s a hallmark of the Tinker Hatfield design. When the light hits it at night? Game over. It pops against the red in a way that reminds you why the Jordan 5 changed the game in 1990. The translucent outsole—the "icy" bottom—completes the look, though as any sneakerhead knows, those things turn yellow faster than you’d like. It’s just the nature of the beast.
Why This Shoe Was Actually a Gamble for Jordan Brand
In 2017, the "Flight Suit" pack included a blue suede version too. People liked the blue, but the Jordan 5 Red Suede was the one that stayed in the conversation. Why? Because red Jordans have a certain gravity. They pull you in.
The gamble was the price point and the volume. At $190, it wasn't a cheap pickup. Some critics argued that without the "Nike Air" branding on the heel—it has the Jumpman logo instead—it lacked the "OG" soul that purists crave. But here’s the thing: not everything has to be an original 1990 colorway to be good.
Sometimes, a new colorway just works.
I remember seeing these sit on shelves for a few weeks in some cities. Imagine that now! Today, everything sells out in seconds. But back then, you could actually walk into a Foot Locker and buy a pair of Jordan 5 Red Suede sneakers without a bot or a prayer. That accessibility meant a lot of people actually wore their shoes instead of just flipping them on StockX.
How to Tell a Real Pair from a Fake
The secondary market is a minefield. If you're looking for a pair today, you have to be careful. The most common "tell" on fake Red Suede 5s is the tongue height. The 5 is known for its tall, prominent tongue. Fakes often have a shorter, "stubby" tongue that lacks the proper 3M reflectivity.
- Check the stitching on the heel Jumpman. It should be tight, with no "connected threads" between the limbs.
- Look at the netting on the side panels. It should be clear (or slightly yellowed if they're used), not "milky" white.
- The red paint on the midsole should match the suede color almost perfectly. If the midsole looks orange-ish, walk away.
Styling the Loudest Shoe in Your Closet
How do you even wear these? It’s a question that plagues a lot of people who buy loud kicks.
You can’t go full "Christmas tree" with it. If you wear a red shirt, red pants, and red suede 5s, you look like a mascot. Don't do that. Honestly, the best way to let the Jordan 5 Red Suede shine is to keep everything else muted. Black joggers? Perfect. Raw denim? Classic. A simple grey hoodie? Now you’re talking.
The silhouette of the 5 is bulky. It’s a tank. You need pants that have a bit of taper so they don't swallow the shoe. If your jeans are too baggy, you lose the "shark teeth" detail on the side, and that’s arguably the best part of the shoe.
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The Maintenance Nightmare
Let’s be real for a second. Suede is a magnet for dust and dirt.
If you own the Jordan 5 Red Suede, you need a dedicated suede brush. No exceptions. You also need a water-repellent spray, but be careful—some sprays can darken the red if you apply too much. Test a small spot on the heel first. If you get a liquid stain on these, don't rub it. You’ll just push the dirt deeper into the fibers. Blot it.
It’s high maintenance. But high-maintenance things usually look the best.
The Long-Term Value and Legacy
Does the Red Suede 5 hold its value? Surprisingly, yes.
While it didn't have the immediate "hype" of an Off-White collab, its value has steadily climbed. It’s a "comfort" shoe for collectors—the kind of pair you get because you actually like the way it looks on your feet, not because a rapper told you to buy it.
It represents an era where Jordan Brand was experimenting with lifestyle materials on performance silhouettes. It’s a bridge between the court and the street. When you look at the history of the 5, from the "Grape" to the "Fire Red," the Red Suede version holds a unique spot as the "New Classic." It’s bold, it’s red, and it’s unapologetically loud.
Actionable Steps for Owners and Buyers
If you’re looking to add the Jordan 5 Red Suede to your rotation or you already have a pair tucked away in the closet, here is what you actually need to do to maximize the investment:
- Deoxidize the Soles: If your pair has turned yellow, a bottle of "sole sauce" and some UV light can bring that blue tint back. It makes the red suede pop significantly more.
- Storage is Key: Do not leave these in direct sunlight. Red dye is notorious for fading under UV rays. Keep them in a cool, dark place, preferably in a clear drop-front box to keep the dust off the suede.
- Check the Midsole: On older pairs, the foam can eventually crumble. While 2017 isn't "vintage" yet, keep an eye on any paint cracking. If you see cracks, it might be time for a light touch-up with specialized sneaker paint.
- Verify Before Buying: Use a service like CheckCheck or a reputable middleman if you’re buying from a private seller. The "Flight Suit" pack was widely replicated, and some of the "high-tier" fakes are scarily close to the real deal.
Owning a pair of Red Suede 5s is a statement. It says you appreciate the history of the Flight Suit but want something that stands out in a crowd of white and black sneakers. Keep them brushed, keep them dry, and wear them with confidence. You've got a piece of Jordan history on your feet.