It’s a mess. Honestly, looking at the Nike Dunk What The for the first time usually triggers one of two reactions: total awe or a literal headache. It’s not just a shoe; it’s a Frankenstein’s monster of leather, suede, and mesh that somehow became the most important relic in sneaker history. If you’re trying to understand why people pay thousands of dollars for a pair of sneakers that don't even match each other, you have to look at 2007. That was the year Nike SB decided to stop being polite and started being weird.
The concept was simple but risky. Take the most iconic elements from 31 different Nike SB Dunks and cram them into one single pair of shoes.
You’ve got pieces of the "Pigeon," the "Huf," the "Heineken," and the "Supreme" all fighting for space on the same upper. It shouldn't work. By all laws of design and color theory, it should be a disaster. But it isn't. It’s a masterpiece of chaos that defined an era of streetwear where being "loud" was the only thing that mattered.
The Absolute Chaos of the Nike Dunk What The Origin
Back in the mid-2000s, Nike SB (the skateboarding division) was the undisputed king of the underground. James Arizumi, the designer behind the Nike Dunk What The, basically wanted to create a "greatest hits" album you could wear on your feet. He wasn't just trying to make a cool shoe; he was trying to tell the entire history of the SB Dunk line in a single go.
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It was a love letter to the hunters. The people who spent hours on forums like NikeTalk or NSB.org trying to track down a pair of "Paris" Dunks.
When it dropped, the "What The Dunk" (as it’s often called) wasn't an easy sell for everyone. Some purists thought it was a gimmick. A "jump the shark" moment for the brand. But then the scarcity hit. And the realization that this shoe was basically a trophy room for your feet. If you owned this shoe, you were signaling to the world that you knew every single reference point on that leather. You knew that the mini-Swoosh came from one place and the stars on the side panel came from another. It was a litmus test for "cool."
Every Panel Tells a Story
If you look closely at the left shoe versus the right shoe, nothing is symmetrical. That’s the point. On one toe box, you might see the classic orange and grey from the "Pigeon" Dunk (designed by Jeff Staple), which famously caused a riot in NYC. On the other, you’ve got the safari print or the "Buck" green.
It’s a sensory overload.
The Nike Dunk What The is basically a museum exhibit. Think about the "Jedi" neon laces clashing against the "Medicom" denim. It’s loud, it’s obnoxious, and it’s perfect. It represents a time before sneakers were an "asset class" traded like stocks. Back then, they were just weird, expressive pieces of art that skaters actually wore until they fell apart.
Why collectors are still obsessed twenty years later
The market for these is insane. We're talking five-figure price tags for deadstock pairs. But why? Why does the Nike Dunk What The hold its value better than almost any other shoe from that era?
It’s because you can’t replicate the soul of 2007.
Nike has tried to do "What The" versions of everything since—Kobes, LeBrons, even Air Maxes—but nothing hits like the original Dunk. It feels authentic because it was the first. It wasn't a calculated marketing ploy to "disrupt the market." It was a genuine experiment. Plus, the sheer number of materials used means no two pairs age exactly the same way. The yellowing of the translucent soles, the fading of the premium suedes—it all adds character.
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- The "Pigeon" Influence: That tiny bird on the heel changed everything.
- Supreme Stars: A nod to the 2003 collaboration that paved the way for luxury streetwear.
- California Vibes: The "Cali" Dunk's side paneling makes a cameo.
- The "Tweed" Texture: Adding a bit of professor-chic to a skate shoe.
Honestly, if you see someone wearing these at a sneaker convention, they are either a "pro-level" collector or they have a very healthy bank account. Probably both. You don't just "stumble" into a pair of these anymore.
Misconceptions about the "What The" Design
A lot of people think Nike just threw random scraps together to save money. That’s a total myth. Every single placement was intentional. James Arizumi has spoken before about the "flow" of the shoe. Even though it looks random, there’s a balance to the chaos. If you put too much dark material on the heel, the shoe looks heavy. If the neon colors aren't distributed correctly, it looks lopsided.
Another thing people get wrong? They think there’s only one version.
While the 2007 SB Dunk is the "OG," the Nike Dunk What The concept has branched out. We saw the "What The Doernbecher" and the "What The Paul" (Paul Rodriguez). Each one tries to capture that same lightning in a bottle, but the 2007 version remains the high-water mark for creativity. It’s the one that started the trend of "mismatching" as a legitimate style choice.
The Durability Factor
Let’s be real: nobody is skating in these today. If you take a $15,000 shoe to a skate park, you’re either a billionaire or a madman. But back in the day, these were built to last. The SB Dunk was a performance shoe first. Thick tongues, Zoom Air cushioning in the heel, and reinforced stitching.
The Nike Dunk What The might look like a delicate piece of art, but it’s built like a tank. That’s the irony of the sneaker world. The shoes built for the roughest treatment are the ones we end up keeping in plastic boxes under our beds.
How to spot a fake (Because there are thousands)
If you're in the market for a Nike Dunk What The, you're walking into a minefield. Scammers love this shoe. Because the design is so busy, they think they can hide mistakes in the chaos. They can't.
True experts look at the embroidery. The "Pigeon" on the heel of a real pair is crisp. On a fake, the bird usually looks like a blob. The "Supreme" stars should be perfectly sharp, not rounded off. And the smell—don't laugh—real Nike SB leather from that era has a specific, chemical-meets-tannery scent that fakes just can't get right.
Also, check the box. The gold box era was specific. If the labels look even slightly "off" or the font is too thin, run away. Fast.
The Cultural Legacy of Mismatched Shoes
We see mismatched sneakers everywhere now. Every brand from Adidas to New Balance has done some version of a "multi-color" or "patchwork" design. You can thank the Nike Dunk What The for that. It broke the rule that shoes had to be mirror images of each other. It gave designers permission to be asymmetrical.
It also changed how we view "limited edition." Before this, "limited" usually just meant a new colorway. This was a new philosophy. It proved that you could sell a shoe based on storytelling rather than just aesthetics. You aren't buying a blue shoe; you're buying 31 stories.
What you should do if you want a pair
Look, unless you've got a spare ten grand burning a hole in your pocket, buying an original 2007 pair is a tall order. But there are ways to experience the "What The" vibe without going broke.
First, look at the "What The Paul" P-Rod Dunks. They are significantly more affordable (though still pricey) and carry the same "mismatched" DNA. Second, keep an eye on the "What The" releases for other models like the Air Jordan 5 or the LeBron series. They aren't the same, but they celebrate the same spirit.
If you are dead set on the 2007 SB Dunk, stick to reputable marketplaces with ironclad authentication. StockX, GOAT, or high-end auction houses like Sotheby's are your best bet. Avoid "too good to be true" deals on eBay or Instagram. They are always fakes. Always.
Practical Steps for Collectors
- Research the 31 Shoes: Before you buy, learn the history of the 31 Dunks featured in the design. It makes the ownership much more rewarding.
- Check for Crumbling: Shoes from 2007 are getting old. Even if they look perfect, the glue can dry out. Be prepared for potential restoration costs if you plan to wear them.
- Verify the Designer: Look up James Arizumi’s work. Understanding his design language will help you appreciate the nuances of the shoe.
- Storage is Key: If you get a pair, keep them in a temperature-controlled environment away from sunlight. UV rays are the natural enemy of 2000s-era suede.
The Nike Dunk What The is a reminder that fashion is supposed to be fun. It’s supposed to be a bit ridiculous. It’s a loud, clashing, beautiful mess that defined a generation of sneakerheads, and it’s not going anywhere anytime soon. Whether you love it or hate it, you have to respect the audacity of it. In a world of boring white sneakers, be the "What The."