If you were hanging around Lafayette Street in 2002, you probably saw something that changed sneaker history forever, though nobody really knew it at the time. A small skate shop with a cult following decided to take a bulky basketball shoe and wrap it in elephant print. It was weird. It was polarizing. Most importantly, the Nike SB Supreme Dunk was the spark that turned a niche hobby into a global obsession.
Sneaker culture didn't just happen. It was built on the back of these collaborations. Honestly, looking at the market today, it’s easy to forget how risky this felt for Nike. They were trying to get into skate shops—places where "big corporate" was usually treated like a virus. By partnering with Supreme, Nike got an immediate "cool" stamp of approval. It wasn't just about the shoes; it was about the gatekeepers of New York street culture opening the doors.
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The 2002 Elephant Print Era
Let's talk about the White and Black Cements. These are the grails. You’ve probably seen the photos a million times, but the texture in person is what really hits. Supreme took the iconic elephant print from the Air Jordan 3 and slapped it onto a Dunk Low. It was a tribute and a provocation all at once. Only 500 pairs of each colorway were produced. Think about that number for a second. Today, a "limited" release might see 50,000 pairs, and people still complain they can't get them. In 2002, if you weren't in NYC or Tokyo, you were basically out of luck.
The "Black Cement" (304292-001) and "White Cement" (304292-131) didn't just sell out—they created the blueprint for the modern hype cycle. Back then, you didn't have apps. You had landlines and word of mouth. If you wanted a pair, you stood in a physical line. It was gritty. It was real.
Why the 2003 Highs Changed Everything
A year later, they did it again, but the vibe was totally different. The 2003 Nike SB Supreme Dunk High collection introduced three colorways: University Blue, College Orange, and Varsity Red. These shoes featured faux crocodile skin and a flurry of gold stars on the side panels.
The stars were actually a compromise. Originally, Supreme wanted to use a Nike logo pattern that looked a bit too much like a famous high-fashion monogram. Legal teams got nervous. They pivoted to stars. Sometimes, legal hurdles actually result in better design, because those stars are now the most recognizable part of the Supreme SB legacy.
The Long Gap and the 2012 Anniversary
Then, Supreme went quiet on the Dunk for nearly a decade. They worked on Blazers, Bruins, and even the Delta Force, but the Dunk stayed in the vault. When the 10th-anniversary pair finally dropped in 2012, the world was a different place. Instagram was just starting to take off. Resell sites were becoming a thing.
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The 2012 Red Elephant Print Dunk (547646-661) was a direct nod to the 2002 originals. It featured a bold red leather upper with that familiar grey elephant print. Some purists hated it. They thought the red was too loud. But others saw it as a victory lap. It’s a polarizing shoe, even now. You either love the "Supreme Red" or you think it looks like a custom gone wrong. There is no middle ground with this pair.
Modern Era: Stars, Jewels, and High-Stakes Flops
Fast forward to 2019. The Nike SB Supreme Dunk Low took a weird turn. We got jewel swooshes and two-tone metallic toes. Honestly? A lot of people hated these at first. The Navy/Gold, Silver/Black, and White/Red pairs felt like a massive departure from the chunky, padded-tongue aesthetic everyone expected.
But Supreme doesn't care about what's trendy in the moment. They set the trend. While the 2019 pairs aren't hitting the $10,000 price tags of the 2002 versions, they’ve aged surprisingly well. They feel like a weird artifact from a time when Supreme was experimenting with 90s sportswear vibes.
Then 2021 happened. The "Stars" returned, but this time on the Low. We got four colorways: Mean Green, Hyper Royal, Barkroot Brown, and Black.
- Mean Green: The standout. Loud, obnoxious, and perfect.
- Hyper Royal: A nod to the 2003 Highs.
- Barkroot Brown: The sleeper hit for people who want to look "mature" while wearing skate shoes.
- Black: The safe bet.
The 2021 release was a chaotic mess of bot-filled SNKRS drops and back-door deals. It showed that despite decades in the game, the Nike SB Supreme Dunk is still the apex predator of the sneaker world.
Spotting the Fakes (It's Getting Harder)
If you're dropped five figures on a 2002 pair, you better know what you're looking at. The "rep" market has gotten terrifyingly good, but they almost always mess up the elephant print. On authentic 2002 pairs, the "cracks" in the print are deep and defined, not just printed on top of the leather.
Check the tongue padding. An authentic Nike SB Supreme Dunk from the "Golden Era" has a very specific density. If it feels like cheap foam, run away. Also, the "Nike" embroidery on the heel tab should be thick and slightly messy. Modern fakes are often too perfect. Real 2002 manufacturing had soul, and sometimes that soul included slightly wonky stitching.
The Rammellzee Collaboration
In 2023, we saw a tribute to the late Gothic Futurist artist Rammellzee. These weren't just shoes; they were wearable canvases. Available in both High and Low, the canvas uppers featured Rammellzee’s frantic, beautiful artwork. These felt like a return to Supreme's roots in the NYC art scene. They weren't just a color swap; they were a story.
Market Value and Investment Potential
Is buying a Nike SB Supreme Dunk a good investment? Well, if you bought a pair in 2002 for $65, you're sitting on a gold mine. Today, a deadstock pair of Black Cements can easily clear $12,000.
But for the newer pairs? It’s a gamble. The 2021 Lows have settled around the $700-$1,200 range depending on the colorway. That’s a lot of money for a shoe made of leather and rubber. However, these aren't just shoes. They are historical markers. As long as Supreme stays relevant, these Dunks will stay expensive.
Common Misconceptions
People often think Supreme was the first to collaborate with Nike SB. That’s actually not true. Zoo York and Chocolate had versions out around the same time. But Supreme was the first to use the elephant print outside of the Jordan line. That was the "A-ha!" moment. It proved that you could mix different parts of Nike’s history to create something entirely new.
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Another myth is that all Supreme Dunks have fat tongues. While the fat tongue is a staple of the SB line, some of the newer iterations have experimented with different silhouettes and padding levels. Always check the specific year’s "specs" before you buy.
How to Wear Them Without Looking Like a Hypebeast
It’s tempting to go full "Supreme" with the hoodie and the hat. Don't. If you’re wearing $3,000 shoes, let them do the talking.
- Keep the pants simple. Raw denim or olive fatigues work best.
- Avoid skinny jeans. The Dunk is a wide, chunky shoe. You need some volume in your pants to balance it out.
- Actually wear them. There is nothing cooler than a pair of 2002 Dunks with some scuffs and "character."
Actionable Insights for Collectors
If you're serious about getting into the Nike SB Supreme Dunk game, don't just jump on the first pair you see on a resale site.
- Verify the Box: The color of the box (Orange, Silver, Pink, Black, Gold) tells you the era. A 2002 pair in a 2010 box is a massive red flag.
- Check the "Yellowing": For older pairs, the midsoles should be slightly yellowed. If they are ice-white, they’ve either been heavily restored or they are fake.
- Join the Communities: Places like the SB Collector groups on Facebook or specific Discord servers are better than any "authentication" service. The guys who have owned 50 pairs of the same shoe know details a machine will miss.
- Focus on the 2021s for Entry-Level: If you want the look without the mortgage-payment price tag, the 2021 "Stars" collection is the best entry point. They are modern, durable, and still carry that Supreme DNA.
The Nike SB Supreme Dunk represents a specific moment in time when skateboarding, hip-hop, and high-fashion collided in a New York City storefront. It’s a legacy built on "fuck you" energy and a deep respect for design history. Whether you're skating them or keeping them in a glass case, you're holding a piece of culture.
Start by researching the "Silver Box" era. Understanding the nuances of that 2002-2004 period will give you the foundation to understand why every subsequent drop matters. Look for reputable sellers with high-resolution photos of the size tag and the inner footbed stitching. If the deal seems too good to be true, especially for an elephant print pair, it definitely is.