Tinker Hatfield had a weird vision in 1990. He looked at a World War II Mustang fighter plane—specifically those jagged teeth painted on the nose—and decided that belonged on a basketball shoe. It worked. But while the neon "Grapes" and the "Fire Reds" grabbed the headlines, the simplicity of the retro 5 jordans black and white colorways eventually became the real MVP for people who actually wear their sneakers.
Sneaker culture is noisy.
Usually, it's all about loud collaborations and neon "Look at me" palettes. Then you have the "Moonlight" or "Oreo" 5s. They don't scream. They just sit there looking expensive. Honestly, if you’re looking for a pair that doesn't make you look like you’re trying too hard at the grocery store, this is the one. It's basically the tuxedo of the Jordan world.
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The Evolution of the Black and White Aesthetic
The Jordan 5 is a bulky shoe. There’s no getting around that. It has a massive tongue, a thick ankle collar, and that translucent outsole that eventually turns the color of a manila folder if you aren't careful. When you douse that silhouette in a loud color, it can be overwhelming. That’s why the retro 5 jordans black and white iterations—specifically the 2013 "Oreo" and its 2021 "Moonlight" successor—changed the game.
They brought a level of sophistication to a shoe that was originally designed for a guy who could jump over a car.
The 2021 "Moonlight" release is what most people are hunting for right now. It features a buttery black suede upper that feels premium to the touch. It isn't that cheap, sandpaper-feeling nubuck you see on lower-tier GRs (General Releases). The contrast comes from the crisp white midsole and the speckled "shark teeth" that look like a starry night sky. Or a dusty cookies-and-cream milkshake. Take your pick.
Why Suede Matters Here
Leather Jordans are easy to clean. Suede Jordans are a commitment. When you're rocking the retro 5 jordans black and white, you're making a choice. You’re saying, "I have a brush, and I’m not afraid to use it." The depth of the black material on these pairs absorbs light in a way that leather just can't. It makes the white accents pop with an intensity that's actually kind of jarring when they're fresh out of the box.
Expert tip: If you see someone with a pair of these and the white inner lining is still actually white, they’re either a magician or they just bought them. That lining is a magnet for denim bleed. If you wear raw indigo jeans with these, you're going to have blue ankles. Just a heads up.
Understanding the "Oreo" vs "Moonlight" Confusion
Go to any resale site like StockX or GOAT and you'll see these names used interchangeably. It’s annoying.
The original "Oreo" dropped in 2013. It was a massive hit because it was one of the first times the 5 felt "wearable" with a pair of black skinny jeans or joggers. Fast forward to 2021, and Jordan Brand brought it back, but the internal "official" name was Moonlight. Same shoe? Basically. The 2021 version had some slight tweaks in the material quality and the shape of the toe box, which purists always argue about on Reddit forums.
Some guys swear the 2013 shape was more "aggressive." Others think the 2021 materials hold up better against creasing. In reality, on feet? Nobody can tell the difference. They both feature:
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- The translucent "icy" outsole.
- The clear lace locks (a signature of the 5).
- The silver reflective 3M tongue.
That tongue is the secret sauce. When the light hits it at the right angle, it glows. It was originally designed so that photographers' flashes would capture the Jumpman logo clearly during NBA games. Now, it’s just a great way to make sure you don't get hit by a car while crossing the street at night.
The Problem with the Icy Sole
We need to talk about the yellowing. It’s the elephant in the room with every retro 5 jordans black and white pair. That beautiful, clear blue-tinted sole doesn't stay that way. Oxygen is the enemy. Over time, a chemical reaction called oxidation turns that clear rubber into a murky yellow.
I’ve seen collectors go to insane lengths to stop this. They wrap their shoes in plastic. They put silica packets in the box. They buy "sole protector" stickers. Honestly? Just wear them. A slightly yellowed sole on a black and white shoe actually gives it a bit of a vintage "vintage" vibe that isn't half bad. Plus, trying to keep a shoe in a vacuum-sealed bag is a stressful way to live.
If it really bothers you, products like Salon Care 40 and a UV light setup can "de-yellow" them, but it’s a temporary fix. Science always wins.
Sizing and Comfort: What the "Experts" Don't Tell You
Jordans are notorious for inconsistent sizing. The 5, however, is pretty predictable. It runs a bit roomy. Because of that massive amount of padding around the ankle, your foot stays locked in, but the toe box usually has some breathing room.
Most people go true-to-size (TTS). If you have narrow feet, you might even consider going down a half size, especially since the suede on the retro 5 jordans black and white tends to stretch a little more than the stiff leather versions.
Comfort-wise? It’s a 90s basketball shoe. It’s not "walking on clouds" like a modern runner with ZoomX or Boost foam. It’s firm. It has a Nike Air unit in the heel, but you won't feel it much. It’s a "sturdy" comfort. You feel protected. Like you could kick down a door if you absolutely had to.
Styling: How to Not Look Like a Middle Schooler
The risk with high-top Jordans is looking like you're stuck in 2012.
Avoid the "flight suit" look unless you’re actually going to a basketball court. Because the retro 5 jordans black and white is so neutral, it works best with a monochrome palette.
- The Safe Bet: Black slim-fit cargos and a heavy-weight grey hoodie. Let the tongue of the shoe pop.
- The Bold Move: Cropped trousers that hit just above the ankle. It’s a bit more "fashion," but it shows off the silhouette without the "bulk" of the pants bunching up on top of the tongue.
Don't overthink the laces. The 5 comes with a lace lock for a reason. Some people take them off, but that’s a mistake. It’s part of the shoe’s DNA. Keep them on, cinch them slightly, and let the rest of the laces hang loose.
The Market Reality
Let's get real about the price. Retail was $190. You aren't finding them for $190 anymore unless you find a time machine or a very confused seller on Facebook Marketplace.
The retro 5 jordans black and white (Moonlight/Oreo) usually sits in the $250 to $350 range depending on the size. Is it worth the markup? Compared to some of the $1,000 Travis Scott collabs, this is actually a "bargain" in the twisted world of sneaker resale. It’s a foundation piece. It’s the shoe you wear when you don’t know what else to wear.
There's also the "Metallic" 5, which is often confused with these. The Metallics have a silver tongue but the upper is usually a more "plastic-y" durabuck and they have "23" embroidered on the side. They’re more "OG," but the Black and White/Oreo is arguably more stylish for everyday life.
How to Spot Fakes
The market is flooded with "reps" (replicas). Because the retro 5 jordans black and white is a relatively simple colorway, factories get pretty close. Check the netting on the side panels. On real pairs, the netting should be clear (or slightly yellowed) and the holes should be crisp. If the netting feels like soft, flimsy plastic or has jagged edges, walk away.
Also, look at the "teeth" on the midsole. The speckling should be deliberate but random. Fakes often have a very uniform "polka dot" look to the speckles. And finally, smell the box. Real Nikes have a very specific, almost chemical "new shoe" smell. Fakes often smell like industrial glue or cheap gasoline. Your nose is a better authenticator than you think.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Collector
If you're ready to pull the trigger on a pair of retro 5 jordans black and white, don't just click "buy" on the first listing you see.
- Check the "Suede Deadness": If buying used, ask for a video of the seller running their finger across the black material. If the color doesn't shift (the "nap" of the suede), the material is dead or dirty.
- Invest in a Suede Kit: Buy a brass-bristle brush and a suede eraser immediately. Do not use water to clean these. You will ruin the texture and turn the black into a weird ashy grey.
- Inspect the Heel Jumpman: On the 2021 Moonlight version, the Jumpman on the heel should be stitched perfectly. No "butt crack" stitching, no loose threads connecting the hand to the ball.
- Rotate Your Wear: Don't wear these three days in a row. The moisture from your feet will settle into the suede and foam, accelerating the breakdown of the glue and the yellowing of the soles. Give them 48 hours to "breathe" between wears.
- Verify the Box Label: Ensure the font on the box matches official Nike retail tags. Use an app like CheckCheck if you’re unsure; for $3, it’s worth the peace of mind.
The retro 5 jordans black and white isn't just a sneaker; it's a solved problem. It solves the "what do I wear with this?" dilemma that plagues every morning. It’s historical enough for the old heads and clean enough for the newcomers. Just keep them out of the rain. Seriously.