Walk into any pub in the Royal Mile and you’ll find tourists jostling for a pint of overpriced lager. It’s loud. It’s cramped. Honestly, it’s a bit exhausting. But if you take a short, breezy detour behind Arthur’s Seat, you hit the village of Duddingston. That’s where things get interesting. Nestled right there is The Sheep Heid Inn, a spot that’s been pouring drinks since roughly 1360.
Think about that for a second.
When this place opened its doors, the Black Death was still a relatively fresh memory and the printing press hadn't even been invented yet. People have been stumbling out of this building for over six centuries. It’s not just a pub; it’s a living, breathing piece of Scottish history that somehow avoids feeling like a dusty museum. You’ve probably heard of "historic" bars that are basically gift shops with a liquor license. This isn't one of them. It feels local because it is local.
The Royal Connection and That Weird Name
Why "Sheep Heid"? It’s a bit grizzly if you think about it too hard. Back in the day, sheep were grazed on Holyrood Park nearby. When they were slaughtered, the "fancy" cuts of meat went to the wealthy folks in the city. The locals? They got the heads. They’d boil them up to make "Powrie" or sheep’s head broth. It sounds unappetizing now, but back then, it was survival.
But here is the kicker. Despite the peasant-food origins, the pub has some seriously posh fans.
King James VI of Scotland (who eventually became James I of England) was apparently a regular. Legend has it he loved the place so much he gifted the landlord an ornate, silver-mounted ram’s head snuff box in 1580. That’s a hell of a tip. Even Queen Elizabeth II dropped by for a quiet lunch in 2016. She didn't announce it. She just showed up, sat in the dining room, and had a fillet of mutton.
You don't get more "authentic" than a pub where the monarch decides to grab a casual bite.
The Skittle Alley You Need to See
If you go to The Sheep Heid Inn and don't visit the skittle alley, you’ve basically missed the point. This isn't modern ten-pin bowling with neon lights and greasy nachos. This is Victorian-era, manual-reset skittles. It was built around 1880 and it’s the oldest surviving alley of its kind in Scotland.
It’s tactile. It’s heavy.
When you knock the pins down, there’s no fancy machine to whisk them away. You, or a very patient friend, have to walk down and set them back up by hand. There is something deeply satisfying about the "clack" of the heavy wooden ball hitting the floor. It’s a workout, too. Most people book it for parties, but if you’re lucky and it’s a quiet Tuesday, you might get a peek inside. It feels like stepping back into a world where entertainment required actual physical effort.
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What Most People Get Wrong About Duddingston
A lot of visitors think The Sheep Heid Inn is just a "hike stop" after climbing Arthur’s Seat. They rush in, sweaty and out of breath, grab a quick drink, and leave.
That's a mistake.
Duddingston village itself is a conservation area that feels completely disconnected from the frantic energy of Edinburgh’s city center. You have the Duddingston Loch nearby—a massive freshwater lake that's a haven for birdwatchers and people who just want to stare at water for a while. It’s also where the famous "Skating Minister" painting was set.
The pub sits at the heart of this. The atmosphere inside is heavy with dark wood, leather chairs, and the smell of roasting meat. It’s the kind of place where you should stay for three hours, not thirty minutes.
The Menu: More Than Just Pub Grub
Look, pub food in the UK can be a gamble. Sometimes it’s a soggy pie that’s been microwaved into oblivion. But the kitchen here actually tries. Because it’s owned by Mitchells & Butlers under their Vintage Inns brand, it has a certain level of consistency, but the chefs at the Sheep Heid tend to lean into the "Scottishness" of the location.
- You’ll find seasonal game.
- The steaks are usually sourced locally.
- They do a Sunday roast that is, quite frankly, massive.
If you’re a vegetarian, don't worry. They’ve moved past the "mushroom risotto" era and usually have some decent plant-based options that aren't just an afterthought. But let's be real: you're here for the atmosphere and maybe a dram of whisky by the fire.
A Quick Reality Check on Booking
Don't just turn up on a Saturday afternoon and expect a table in the restaurant. It won't happen.
The Sheep Heid is popular with locals from the Southside and Newington, and it fills up fast. If you want to eat, book online at least a few days in advance. If you just want a pint, you can usually squeeze into the bar area or the beer garden. The garden is a hidden gem in the summer—a quiet, walled-in space where you can actually hear the birds instead of bus exhausts.
Why This Place Still Matters in 2026
In an era where every second pub is being turned into a generic cocktail bar or a "concept" restaurant, The Sheep Heid Inn feels stubborn. It refuses to change too much. Yes, they have Wi-Fi. Yes, they take Apple Pay. But the bones of the place are ancient.
It’s a reminder that Edinburgh isn't just a backdrop for Harry Potter fans or a stage for the Fringe Festival. It’s a city with deep, sometimes dark, roots. Sitting in a chair that might have been sat in by a Jacobite or a Victorian poet gives you a perspective you just can't get from a tour bus.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
- The Walk: Take the "Innocent Railway" path or walk around the base of Arthur’s Seat from Commonwealth Pool. It’s a much prettier route than taking a taxi through the city traffic.
- The Drink: They usually have a solid rotation of local ales. Ask what’s on the guest tap.
- The Timing: Go on a weekday afternoon if you want to soak in the history. It’s much more atmospheric when it’s quiet and you can hear the floorboards creak.
- The Ghost: Like any self-respecting 600-year-old building, people claim it’s haunted. I’ve never seen a ghost there, but after three glasses of wine, the shadows do start to look a bit jumpy.
Actionable Next Steps
If you are planning a trip to Edinburgh or if you live there and have somehow ignored this spot, here is your plan.
First, check the weather. You want a day that is either perfectly sunny for the beer garden or miserably rainy for the fireplace—nothing in between. Second, head to their official website and reserve a spot in the skittle alley if you have a group of six or more. It is genuinely one of the most unique things you can do in the city. Finally, leave your phone in your pocket. This isn't a place for "content" (even though it's very Instagrammable); it's a place to actually exist in the moment.
Walk through the village, look at the loch, and then settle into a corner of the pub. Order a pint of something heavy and just listen to the walls. They’ve heard it all before.
Getting there: The Sheep Heid Inn is located at 43-45 The Causeway, Edinburgh EH15 3QA. You can take the 42 or 44 bus from the city center, but the walk through Holyrood Park is highly recommended for the full experience.