If you’ve ever driven through California, you’ve seen them. Those curved, green cast-iron posts with a hanging bell, usually marking a dusty stretch of Highway 101 or a busy city street. They're everywhere. Honestly, most people just zoom past them without a second thought. But the bells on El Camino Real aren't just roadside decorations or historical markers; they are actually at the center of a pretty heated debate about how we remember the past in the Golden State.
It’s easy to assume they’ve been there forever. They haven't.
Most people think these bells were put up by the Spanish padres as they walked between the missions in the 1700s. That is totally wrong. In reality, the bells are a product of the early 1900s—specifically 1906—thanks to a woman named Mrs. ASCA Forbes (Armitage S.C. Forbes) and the California Federation of Women’s Clubs. They wanted to boost tourism and create a romanticized "Mission Trail" for the brand-new era of automobile travel. It was basically a massive branding campaign for California.
The strange origin of a California icon
Back in the early 20th century, California was trying to find its identity. It wasn't the tech hub or the entertainment capital yet. It was a place looking for a "vibe," and the Spanish Colonial era was the perfect aesthetic to sell to East Coast tourists. Mrs. Forbes designed the bell herself. She even owned a foundry! The California Bell Company started cranking these things out to mark the "Royal Highway."
They weren't following an ancient map.
Instead, they were following the general path of the 21 missions, from San Diego to Sonoma. The first one was placed in 1906 in front of the Plaza Church in Los Angeles. By 1913, there were over 450 of them. But here’s the thing: they fell into disrepair almost immediately. People stole them. Cars hit them. Some were just forgotten in the weeds. It wasn't until the 1920s and later in the 60s that organizations like Caltrans and the Automobile Club of Southern California stepped in to maintain them.
What the bells actually represent
To a casual tourist, the bells on El Camino Real represent a peaceful, pastoral era of California history. You imagine friars in robes walking through golden hills. But for the Indigenous peoples of California—specifically tribes like the Amah Mutsun Tribal Band—those bells are a painful reminder of the mission system’s darker side.
The missions weren't just churches. They were colonial outposts. For many Native Americans, the bells symbolized the loss of land, the suppression of culture, and forced labor. This is why you might notice that in some cities, the bells have been removed. In 2019, UC Santa Cruz took theirs down. They didn't do it quietly; it was a response to years of protests. Then, in 2021, the city of Hayward removed its bells. Santa Cruz followed suit at the city level soon after.
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It’s a weird tension. On one hand, you have people who see the bells as a nostalgic symbol of California's European roots. On the other, you have people who see them as a "celebration of genocide." It’s not just a piece of metal on a pole. It's a lightning rod for how we handle historical trauma.
Where to find the "real" bells today
If you’re looking for the original 1906 designs, you’re going to have a hard time. Most of what you see on the side of the road today are the 1963 or 1974 versions. Caltrans took over the design to make them more uniform and durable.
- The Los Angeles Plaza Church: This is where the very first one went up. It’s been replaced, but the spot is iconic.
- Mission San Diego de Alcalá: The southern terminus.
- Highway 101 through Monterey County: This is where the "romantic" feel of the bells really hits, as the road opens up and the traffic thins out.
But wait. There’s a specific detail most people miss. Look at the "shepherd’s crook" post. It’s meant to look like the staff carried by the Franciscan friars. The design is intentional, meant to evoke a specific religious and historical feeling. If you look closely at some of the older bells, you’ll see the dates "1769-1906" cast into the metal. The 1769 date refers to the founding of the first mission, while 1906 is when the bell program started.
The controversy is moving the bells
In recent years, the movement to remove the bells on El Camino Real has picked up significant steam. Tribal leaders like Valentin Lopez, chairman of the Amah Mutsun Tribal Band, have been very vocal about this. They argue that the bells "glorify" a system that was devastating to their ancestors.
It’s not just about taking them down, though. It’s about replacement. Some cities are looking at installing markers that tell a more complete story—one that includes the Indigenous perspective before and during the mission period.
Interestingly, Caltrans has stayed somewhat neutral but cooperative. Because the bells are technically on state right-of-way, removing them requires a process. But as public sentiment shifts, especially in Northern California, the green posts are disappearing from the landscape. You might see a bell one day and an empty hole the next. It’s happening that fast.
Why the "King’s Highway" name is technically a lie
Here is a bit of trivia that will annoy your friends: El Camino Real was never one single road. The name translates to "The Royal Road" or "The King’s Highway," implying a grand, paved thoroughfare funded by the Spanish Crown.
Nope.
In the 18th century, "El Camino Real" was basically any trail that connected Spanish settlements. It wasn't one specific path. Sometimes it was just a seasonal track that changed when it rained. When the women’s clubs started placing the bells in 1906, they were basically guessing where the path was, or simply choosing the most convenient route for 1900s-era cars. So, if you’re driving down 101 thinking you’re exactly where Father Serra walked... you might be a few miles off. Or a few dozen.
The different "eras" of bells
- The Forbes Era (1906–1915): These are the originals. They are rare. They usually have a very distinct, hand-cast look.
- The Maintenance Era (1920s–1950s): Local groups tried to keep the bells from falling over. They often painted them different shades of green.
- The Caltrans Era (1960s–Present): These are the modern, "regulation" bells. They are made of concrete-filled steel and are much harder to knock over or steal.
How to see the bells with fresh eyes
Next time you’re on a California road trip, don't just look for the bells—look for the context. Are they in a wealthy neighborhood? Are they near a mission? Are they being maintained or are they covered in graffiti?
You’ll start to notice that the bells in the southern part of the state tend to be more celebrated and preserved. As you move north, toward San Francisco and beyond, they are much more likely to be contested or removed. It’s a physical map of California’s internal cultural divide.
A quick guide to the "Bell" hunt
If you really want to dive into this, check out the California Bell Company. They still exist! You can actually buy a full-sized mission bell for your own driveway if you have a few thousand dollars lying around. They’ve been the primary source for these bells for over a century. Seeing their catalog gives you a sense of just how much of this "history" was actually a commercial enterprise.
What should you actually do?
If you're a history buff or a traveler, don't just take the bells at face value.
- Visit the Missions, but read the Indigenous plaques: Most missions have finally started adding exhibits that explain the impact on the California Indians.
- Check out the Amah Mutsun Land Trust: If you want to understand the counter-perspective on the bells, their website is the best place to start. They offer a perspective that was silenced for over a hundred years.
- Look for the "1.5-mile" rule: Historically, the goal was to have a bell every mile or so. See if you can spot the pattern as you drive. It’s harder than it looks because so many have been moved.
The bells on El Camino Real are a lesson in memory. They tell us more about what Californians wanted to believe in 1906 than what actually happened in 1769. They are icons, yes, but they are also artifacts of a specific moment in time when California was trying to invent itself.
Whether they stay up or come down, the conversation around them is what actually matters now. We’re finally talking about the whole story, not just the romanticized version.
Actionable next steps for your next trip:
- Download a "Mission Trail" map but compare it to modern tribal territory maps. You’ll see exactly where the two histories overlap and collide.
- Stop in San Juan Bautista. It’s one of the most "authentic" feeling mission towns, and the bell placement there is very deliberate.
- Document the "missing" bells. If you see a shepherd’s crook post without a bell, or a plaque where a bell used to be, look up the local city council notes. You’ll usually find a fascinating record of a community debate that happened in the last five years.
- Support local history museums. Places like the California Historical Society in San Francisco have the original documents from the 1906 Women's Club movement. Seeing the original sketches for the bells changes how you view the "ancient" markers on the road.