If you drive far enough north in Door County, past the kitschy gift shops and the rows of cherry pies in Fish Creek, you hit Ellison Bay. It feels different up there. Quieter. A little more rugged. And sitting on a hill, tucked inside a three-story Victorian farmhouse built in 1912, is Wickman House. It’s the kind of place people talk about with a certain reverent tone, like they’re sharing a secret, even though it hasn't been a secret for years.
Honestly, the first time you walk into Wickman House Door County, you might expect something stuffy because of the James Beard nominations. It isn't. Not even a little. The floors creak in that satisfying, old-house way. The lighting is low and warm. You’ll see people in flannels sitting next to couples dressed for a wedding anniversary. It works. Mike Holmes, the owner, moved back from New York years ago to open this place on the grounds of what used to be the Tofte Hotel, and he brought a specific kind of precision with him. It’s Brooklyn technique meets Great Lakes soul.
The Reality of the Farm-to-Table Hype
Everyone claims "farm-to-table" now. It’s basically a marketing buzzword that has lost all meaning. But at Wickman House, it’s literal. They have a massive garden right on the property. When you’re eating a salad there, you can actually look out the window and see where the greens were growing two hours ago. It’s not just for show. They lean heavily into the seasonality of the Peninsula.
📖 Related: Why the MAPS Air Museum in Canton Ohio Still Matters to Every History Buff
- The menu changes constantly because Wisconsin weather is unpredictable.
- Spring might bring ramps and fiddleheads.
- Summer is all about those famous Door County berries and heirloom tomatoes.
- By autumn, you’re looking at squash and heavy reductions.
The kitchen doesn't force ingredients to exist out of season. If the local trout isn't good that week, it isn't on the menu. Simple as that. This can be frustrating for people who want the same thing every time they visit, but it’s the only way to maintain that level of quality. You’re at the mercy of the lake and the soil.
Why the Bar Program is Actually the Main Event
Most people focus on the food, but the cocktails are why I tell people to go early. They take ice seriously. That sounds ridiculous, right? It’s just frozen water. But at Wickman House Door County, they use clear, hand-cut ice that doesn't melt in thirty seconds and water down your drink.
The "Old Fashioned" is a point of contention in Wisconsin. Everyone expects the brandy sweet with muddled cherries and oranges—the "supper club" style. Wickman House does a refined version that respects the spirit. Their "Wickman Old Fashioned" uses bourbon, maple, and house-made bitters. It’s sophisticated. They also do a drink called the "Tofte" which is a nod to the building's history.
Don't skip the non-alcoholic options either. They put as much effort into their shrubs and sodas as they do their gin drinks. It’s inclusive. It means the designated driver actually gets a complex beverage instead of a lukewarm Diet Coke.
The Porch Experience vs. The Dining Room
If you can snag a seat on the screened-in porch, do it. There is something about the Ellison Bay air—it smells like pine and lake water—that makes the food taste better. The main dining room is beautiful, sure, but the porch is where the magic happens. You watch the sun go down, the fire pit gets lit outside, and suddenly two hours have disappeared. It’s slow dining. If you’re in a rush to catch a show at Northern Sky Theater, you’re doing it wrong. This is a three-hour commitment.
✨ Don't miss: Why Le Café Saint-Régis is Still the Best Spot on Île Saint-Louis
What to Actually Order (and What to Skip)
Look, not everything is for everyone. The menu is small, which is usually a good sign, but it’s dense.
The Swedish Meatballs are a staple. They’re a tribute to the Scandinavian heritage of northern Door County. They are incredibly rich. Maybe too rich if you're planning on a heavy entree. Share them. The Fried Chicken is another one. It’s drizzled with honey and has this crunch that stays with you.
- The Burger: It’s often overlooked because people want "fancy" food. Don't overlook it. It’s local grass-fed beef, and it’s consistently one of the best in the state.
- The Fish: Whatever the local catch is (usually Whitefish or Trout), get it. It’s the most "Door County" thing on the menu.
- The Sides: They treat vegetables with more respect than most places treat steak.
Is it expensive? Yeah, for the Midwest, it’s a splurge. You’re looking at $30 to $50 for most mains. But you aren't just paying for calories. You’re paying for the fact that they pay their staff a living wage and source from people like Hidden Acres Farm down the road.
The James Beard Factor
Let’s talk about the accolades. Being a multi-year semifinalist for "Outstanding Hospitality" and "Best Chef: Midwest" isn't a fluke. The James Beard Foundation noticed Wickman House Door County because it managed to create a world-class dining destination in a town with a population of about 200 people.
But here’s the thing: fame brings crowds. If you try to walk in on a Saturday night in July without a reservation, you’re going to be disappointed. Or you’ll be waiting two hours at the outdoor bar. Which, honestly, isn't the worst fate, but it’s better to plan ahead. They use the Tock reservation system, and spots fill up weeks in advance during the peak season.
Common Misconceptions About Wickman House
People think it’s a "special occasion only" place. I mean, it’s great for birthdays, but it’s really just a neighborhood joint that happens to be incredible.
Another mistake? Thinking they are open year-round. Door County hibernates in the winter. Wickman House usually shuts down or goes to very limited weekend hours in the deep winter months. Always, always check their Instagram or website before making the trek up Highway 42 in February.
And don't show up expecting a lake view. You're in the woods. You can feel the lake nearby, but you aren't staring at the water. You’re staring at the trees and the garden. It’s a different kind of vibe—more "enchanted forest" than "marina bar."
The Legacy of Joe Roland and Mike Holmes
The story of this place is really a story of friendship and a specific vision. Mike Holmes and the late Joe Roland (who was a beloved fixture of the house) wanted to create something that felt like home. Even after Joe’s passing, that spirit of radical hospitality remains. The staff remembers names. They know the menu inside out. They don't just drop plates; they tell stories.
Actionable Advice for Your Visit
If you're planning to head up to Ellison Bay, here is how you do it right.
- Book 2-3 weeks out. If you're going during the Fall Color peak or the Fourth of July, make it 4 weeks.
- Arrive 45 minutes early. Grab a drink at the gazebo bar or sit by the fire pit. It transitions your brain from "vacation traffic" mode to "dinner" mode.
- Order the bread. It’s usually house-made and worth the carbs.
- Dress comfortably. Clean jeans and a nice sweater are the "Door County Tuxedo." You don't need a suit.
- Explore the grounds. Walk through the garden after dinner. It’s part of the experience.
- Stay nearby. Look for rentals in Ellison Bay or Gills Rock so you don't have to drive 30 minutes back to Sturgeon Bay after a few cocktails.
Wickman House isn't just a restaurant. It’s the anchor of the northern Peninsula. It’s proof that you don't need a big city to have big flavors, and that sometimes, the best thing you can do with a 100-year-old house is fill it with good people and better food. It’s a reminder to slow down. Eat the food. Drink the bourbon. Watch the fire.
📖 Related: Weather for Royal Arkansas: What Most People Get Wrong
To make the most of your trip, check the seasonal ferry schedules if you're heading to Washington Island the next day; Ellison Bay is the last stop before the Northport pier. Combining a late dinner at Wickman with a morning boat ride is the peak Door County itinerary. Keep an eye on their social media for "off-season" pop-ups or special tasting menus, which often feature experimental dishes the chefs are testing for the summer season.