Finding the right spot for a Great Dane or a Mastiff isn't just about buying the biggest box you can find online. It’s actually kind of a nightmare if you don't know what to look for. Most people see the label xtra large dog crates and assume it's a one-size-fits-all solution for any dog over 70 pounds. That is a massive mistake.
I’ve seen owners bring home a 48-inch crate for a 110-pound Bernese Mountain Dog, only to realize the poor pup can't even lift its head without hitting the ceiling. It’s cramped. It’s stressful. Honestly, it’s a waste of $150. If your dog can’t stand up, turn around in a full circle, and lie down completely flat on their side without touching the walls, the crate is too small. Period.
Why size isn't the only thing that matters
When we talk about an xtra large dog crate, we are usually looking at lengths of 48 inches, 54 inches, or even custom 60-inch behemoths. But height and width are where the industry gets sneaky. A "Life Stages" crate from MidWest Homes for Pets is a standard in the industry, but even their XL models vary in wire gauge. If you have a "Houdini" dog—the kind that can bend metal with sheer willpower—a standard thin-wire crate is basically a suggestion, not a barrier.
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You’ve got to think about the weight. A standard collapsible wire crate might hold a 90-pound Lab just fine. But put a 140-pound English Mastiff in there? The plastic tray underneath will crack within a month. The structural integrity starts to buckle.
The Great Dane Dilemma
Let’s get specific. A Great Dane usually needs a 54-inch crate. These are often marketed as "XXL" or "Giant" crates. Brands like Frisco or MidWest make these, but they are heavy. We are talking 80+ pounds of metal. If you live in an apartment on the third floor, you better have a plan for getting that box up the stairs.
I once helped a friend set up a 54-inch crate for her Irish Wolfhound. We realized halfway through that the crate, once assembled, was wider than the bedroom door frame. We had to take the whole thing apart, move the pieces into the bedroom, and rebuild it in the corner where it was destined to stay forever. Measurements matter—not just for the dog, but for your floor plan.
Materials: Plastic vs. Wire vs. Furniture Style
Choosing the material is where things get polarizing. Some people swear by the "airline-approved" plastic kennels. Others want the airflow of wire.
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Wire Crates: These are the most common. They fold down (mostly), they’re relatively cheap, and they come with a divider panel. The divider is key if you’re crate training a giant-breed puppy. You don’t want to give a 20-pound Great Dane puppy a 54-inch space, or they will sleep in one corner and pee in the other.
Heavy-Duty Steel: If your dog has separation anxiety and destroys wire, you need something like a Guardian Gear or a ProSelect Empire crate. These look like literal cages from a high-security prison. They use 20-gauge steel and reinforced 0.5-inch diameter steel tubes. They are expensive. They are also virtually indestructible.
Wooden Furniture Crates: These look great on Instagram. In reality? Most xtra large dog crates made of wood are a bad idea for powerful chewers. If a 100-pound dog gets bored, they will chew through that MDF or soft pine in twenty minutes. Only buy these if your dog is already 100% crate-trained and views the crate as a bedroom, not a prison.
The safety issues nobody talks about
There’s a dark side to these massive crates. Because the wire spans are so long, they can sometimes be flimsier than smaller versions. A dog’s paw can get caught in the spacing if the wire isn't thick enough. According to the American Kennel Club (AKC), you should always remove your dog’s collar before putting them in a crate. With an xtra large dog crate, the risk of a collar or tags getting snagged on the larger door latches is significantly higher.
Then there’s the "side door" debate. Many XL crates come with two or even three doors. This is great for accessibility, but every door is a weak point. If you have a dog that lunges, a single-door model with heavy-duty slide-bolt latches is usually more secure than a multi-door model with flimsy "pin" style locks.
Bedding for the Big Guys
Don't buy a thin fleece mat. It’s useless. Large breeds are prone to hip dysplasia and arthritis. A 120-pound dog lying on a thin mat over a plastic tray is basically lying on the floor. Look for orthopedic foam that is at least 3 to 4 inches thick. Big Barker is one of the few brands that actually makes liners specifically for these giant crates that won't flatten out after a week of use.
Real-world logistics: It’s basically a piece of furniture
You need to measure your car. It sounds stupid, but people buy an xtra large dog crate at a big-box store and then realize it won't fit in their Honda Civic. Even folded down, a 54-inch crate is over four feet long and nearly three feet wide.
And clean-up? It's an ordeal. Most of these crates come with a removable plastic or metal pan. If your dog has an accident in a crate this size, you aren't just wiping it up. You’re likely sliding out a four-foot tray that is awkward, heavy, and dripping. I recommend placing a waterproof "garage mat" or a piece of linoleum underneath the crate to protect your hardwood floors from scratches and spills.
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Addressing the "Crate is Cruel" Myth
In the giant breed community, there's often a bit of pushback. "How can you put such a big dog in a cage?" Look, when done right, a crate isn't a cage. It’s a den. Dogs are den animals. For a large dog, having a dedicated space where they won't get tripped over by kids or guests is actually a huge relief for them.
The key is the "out" time. An xtra large dog crate should never be a place where a dog spends 10 hours straight. For larger breeds, bloat (GDV) is a serious, life-threatening risk. If a dog is stressed or frantic in a crate after eating, it can increase the risk of their stomach flipping. Proper crate acclimation is a literal lifesaver.
What to check before you hit 'buy'
- Check the Latch System: Does it have one bolt or two? For XL dogs, you want two.
- Verify the Wire Gauge: Look for 6-gauge to 9-gauge wire. If it doesn't list the gauge, it’s probably thin and flimsy.
- Measure the Dog's Sitting Height: Measure from the floor to the top of their ears. Add 3-5 inches. That’s your minimum crate height.
- Floor Protection: Ensure the crate has rubber feet. 100+ pounds of dog shifting around will gouge your floors if the metal sits directly on the wood.
Actionable steps for your big dog
Start by measuring your dog while they are standing. Get the length from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail—not the tip of the tail, or the crate will be unnecessarily gargantuan. Add 4 inches to that measurement. That is your target length.
Next, find a spot in your house that isn't in a high-traffic "hallway" but also isn't isolated in a dark basement. Giant breeds are social. They want to see you. Once the crate arrives, don't just force them in. Throw high-value treats (think freeze-dried liver or plain chicken) into the back. Let them go in and out on their own for a few days before you ever close the door.
If you're dealing with a puppy, use the divider. If you're dealing with an adult rescue, check for "separation anxiety" signs before locking the door. For those with dogs that are truly massive—like an Anatolian Shepherd or a Saint Bernard—skip the 48-inch "Large" models entirely and go straight for the 54-inch "Giant" versions. Your dog's joints, and your own peace of mind, will thank you.